I am not going to claim I know it all or am a expert. Throwing out there what I have come across learning. Please feel free to add any comment or added info.
n2o is a product that carrys more air than the outside atmosph. This added air is held in liquid form under pres. in a bottle/tank at around 900-1000psi (for best results). When it is released into the intake track of an engine it adds more air due to it carrying more air and you need to add more fuel to this mix for that reason. Due to the colder temp produced the intake charge temp is gen. less and that is why you can gen. run more timing per hp than with boost and is also better suited for higher compression than boost.
1. non-tweecer spark-
Base timing at 10, atleast do a good tune up with plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. If you are running over a 100 shot it would be a wise and cheap idea to go with a spark plug 1 range colder than the head recomends (incase aftermarket are used) stock or for N/A use, I have had good results with NGK and Autolite plugs. An aftermarket ign. box is a good idea. It is fairly common to gap plugs at around 35, I would say with 100+ or if you think it is blowing out spark at higher rpm on a lower shot. A window switch is going to save your butt if you over rev or mis-shift...if you do ANYTHING get a window switch.
1.2 tweecer spark-
After asking around several people suggested to run a slower rate of advance to help tire shock and driveline shock. It would probably be a good thing to leave the stock adv. rate alone and play with it after running some base line runs. From your N/A timing that you know you do not ping remove 2* for every 50hp of n2o. You can play with this if you want to ride the edge but to be safe from the outset go with the 2* rule. If you are running the stock T5 and you want alittle "safty" keep the shift retard at the stock setting, if you do change it make sure its not more than your n2o 2* rule retard...ie make sure its not more than your total timing while WOT.
2. non-tweecer fuel-
Many have run a 100-125hp shot on a stock pump, However, for the price it is always a good idea to get a bigger pump for when the extra demand is there. I ran a 125 shot on the stock pump with no issues, but when I got a chance I went to a 190lph intake pump. An inline pump will also work well. If your running a dry kit it is not a bad idea to look into bigger inj.
2.2 tweecer fuel-
Having a good MAFtransfer and inj. values in a correct form to get comanded should be had before anything else. Up to 150-175hp levels the gen. concenses is to aim for a 11.5-11.8:1 A/F ratio. From what I have been told by people who R&D for n2o companies tuning above 175hp is complicated. I never plan to go more than that so I didnt ask specifics...anyone else want to add?
n2o is activated at WOT were really there is only Spark and fuel to change, KAMFR is out the window as its in a diff. loop state and o2's are not in the equation. That is why the first thing is to make 100% sure your commanded is varified as such and your settings are accurate to get that commanded. DO NOT GUESS here.
Do not drill jets to make them larger.
Nozzles on the other hand can in alot of cases have smaller I.D. than a given jet...this is why some people will not see any gain from moving up a jet. For example Joe runs 12.82 on a 150 shot but on a 175 shot runs a 12.79 while with a 125 shot ran a 13.10. The nozzle is not big enough to get the best results. DO NOT TAKE THIS AS "I can just run with no jets". People have drilled the nozzle alittle bigger to get the most out of the 175 shot.
From what I have been told on an avg. setup at 150-200hp will run a higher chance/level of fuel drop off with a wet kit as the fuel just gets to heavy and volocity needs to be watched to make sure it does not get a chance to "fall off". You can run moded dry kits with larger inj., direct port kits, and plate style kits that put a plate between the upper and lower intake (the upper is were the mix has to keep together while making wierd turns). Its a bit more advanced than the avg. basic setups so I would let others with first hand exp. go there.
gen. safty-
n2o is a liquid under pres. in the bottle, It goes threw the phase change as it hits the atmosph. The phase change results in a drastic temp change down to -125*. Be very carefull removing a line from the bottle, if any n2o is still in the line it will freeze the skin and be alittle painfull. With bottle warmers and blankets I would not recomend heating up a bottle with a blow torch
. N2o will not blow up in a big fireball...it would probably blow out a fire before starting one. The bottle is under ALOT of pres. and will put out ALOT of force though, I remember pics of a garage a several years ago were the back of the car blew apart and it cracked the garage's slab 
...so yeah dont try and blow one up.
n2o is a product that carrys more air than the outside atmosph. This added air is held in liquid form under pres. in a bottle/tank at around 900-1000psi (for best results). When it is released into the intake track of an engine it adds more air due to it carrying more air and you need to add more fuel to this mix for that reason. Due to the colder temp produced the intake charge temp is gen. less and that is why you can gen. run more timing per hp than with boost and is also better suited for higher compression than boost.
1. non-tweecer spark-
Base timing at 10, atleast do a good tune up with plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. If you are running over a 100 shot it would be a wise and cheap idea to go with a spark plug 1 range colder than the head recomends (incase aftermarket are used) stock or for N/A use, I have had good results with NGK and Autolite plugs. An aftermarket ign. box is a good idea. It is fairly common to gap plugs at around 35, I would say with 100+ or if you think it is blowing out spark at higher rpm on a lower shot. A window switch is going to save your butt if you over rev or mis-shift...if you do ANYTHING get a window switch.
1.2 tweecer spark-
After asking around several people suggested to run a slower rate of advance to help tire shock and driveline shock. It would probably be a good thing to leave the stock adv. rate alone and play with it after running some base line runs. From your N/A timing that you know you do not ping remove 2* for every 50hp of n2o. You can play with this if you want to ride the edge but to be safe from the outset go with the 2* rule. If you are running the stock T5 and you want alittle "safty" keep the shift retard at the stock setting, if you do change it make sure its not more than your n2o 2* rule retard...ie make sure its not more than your total timing while WOT.
2. non-tweecer fuel-
Many have run a 100-125hp shot on a stock pump, However, for the price it is always a good idea to get a bigger pump for when the extra demand is there. I ran a 125 shot on the stock pump with no issues, but when I got a chance I went to a 190lph intake pump. An inline pump will also work well. If your running a dry kit it is not a bad idea to look into bigger inj.
2.2 tweecer fuel-
Having a good MAFtransfer and inj. values in a correct form to get comanded should be had before anything else. Up to 150-175hp levels the gen. concenses is to aim for a 11.5-11.8:1 A/F ratio. From what I have been told by people who R&D for n2o companies tuning above 175hp is complicated. I never plan to go more than that so I didnt ask specifics...anyone else want to add?
n2o is activated at WOT were really there is only Spark and fuel to change, KAMFR is out the window as its in a diff. loop state and o2's are not in the equation. That is why the first thing is to make 100% sure your commanded is varified as such and your settings are accurate to get that commanded. DO NOT GUESS here.
Do not drill jets to make them larger.
Nozzles on the other hand can in alot of cases have smaller I.D. than a given jet...this is why some people will not see any gain from moving up a jet. For example Joe runs 12.82 on a 150 shot but on a 175 shot runs a 12.79 while with a 125 shot ran a 13.10. The nozzle is not big enough to get the best results. DO NOT TAKE THIS AS "I can just run with no jets". People have drilled the nozzle alittle bigger to get the most out of the 175 shot.
From what I have been told on an avg. setup at 150-200hp will run a higher chance/level of fuel drop off with a wet kit as the fuel just gets to heavy and volocity needs to be watched to make sure it does not get a chance to "fall off". You can run moded dry kits with larger inj., direct port kits, and plate style kits that put a plate between the upper and lower intake (the upper is were the mix has to keep together while making wierd turns). Its a bit more advanced than the avg. basic setups so I would let others with first hand exp. go there.
gen. safty-
n2o is a liquid under pres. in the bottle, It goes threw the phase change as it hits the atmosph. The phase change results in a drastic temp change down to -125*. Be very carefull removing a line from the bottle, if any n2o is still in the line it will freeze the skin and be alittle painfull. With bottle warmers and blankets I would not recomend heating up a bottle with a blow torch
. N2o will not blow up in a big fireball...it would probably blow out a fire before starting one. The bottle is under ALOT of pres. and will put out ALOT of force though, I remember pics of a garage a several years ago were the back of the car blew apart and it cracked the garage's slab ...so yeah dont try and blow one up.
