Best torque boxes currently?

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
7,388
3,099
194
Kearney, NE
I am thinking about reinforcing the rear axle torque boxes when I get subframe connectors welded in. (I finally found the connectors again after moving!) MM has front sway bar reinforcements, but I am not finding theIt battle or torque box kit. There are a lot of knockoffs or odd brands on eBay, but quality is unknown, and any savings may be taken up by install labor.
So- who had the easiest to install, best price and functioning parts I want to order?
 
Last edited:
  • Sponsors (?)


Go with the originals from Wild Rides if you want to be sure of the quality. This was the only place you could get them for years until their patent ran out.


Kurt
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users
If welding is the concern in conjunction with the subframe connectors, Wild Rides assured me 22 years ago that there is no advantage to welding in battle boxes; bolting them is preferable since it reduces the chances of future corrosion.

Kurt
 
  • Wow
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
If welding is the concern in conjunction with the subframe connectors, Wild Rides assured me 22 years ago that there is no advantage to welding in battle boxes; bolting them is preferable since it reduces the chances of future corrosion.

Kurt
Good to know, I bolted in a set many years ago when I didn't have access to a welder.
Was thinking recently I should go back in and weld them up but probably not necessary.
 
If welding is the concern in conjunction with the subframe connectors, Wild Rides assured me 22 years ago that there is no advantage to welding in battle boxes; bolting them is preferable since it reduces the chances of future corrosion.

Kurt
I was thinking about using weld through primer (and adequate ventilation from the zinc) for best strength and then to use some good rattle can paint on the welds. Bolted or welded, there is going to be overlapping metal, and the car will see at least rain. Winter roads conditions. a short base, a Squirrely car on coffee ☕️ with a manual is not a combination I will regularly want to drive in. I am thinking while I had some of the interior ready and prepped for heat, why not just do it all if the chunks of steel are not expensive. My first Mustangs’s subframe connectors went in with ice on the carpet, but this new carpet is not ‘79 Pumpkin palomino, and I do not want to risk a fire. The car looks good, but rumors of the life before I tamed it for the street say I should give it some TLC before I step up to Steeda control arms.

Wild Rides site now says -
“Bolt in or weld in – The upper and lower kits install in approx. 5.5 hours using basic hand tools and electric drill, welding is recommended but not required.“
it’s good to know they mean that.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Mine still aren't welded in. Weldable primer is definitely the way to go. you can always put something in between the plates to keep down corrosion.

Kurt
 
I installed a set of bmr ones yesterday, the style with the tube uppers that tie into the frame. They’re actually really nice, and a little easier than having to drill the uppers through the floor. The lowers are way beefier than ones I’ve installed previously. Very thick gauge steel.

B5C68A53-2C6E-4D3F-8609-66C43BE5B956.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
I installed a set of bmr ones yesterday, the style with the tube uppers that tie into the frame. They’re actually really nice, and a little easier than having to drill the uppers through the floor. The lowers are way beefier than ones I’ve installed previously. Very thick gauge steel.

B5C68A53-2C6E-4D3F-8609-66C43BE5B956.jpeg
That's a nice looking kit !
I installed a set of their tubular front control arms and have been impressed with the quality.
 
I installed the ones LMR sells (think it was the battle boxes... be awhile since I bought them)... I bolted and welded the bottoms in, but the upper's I just bolted... because there was no way to get to and clean/paint the welds on the uppers.. so I didn't want anything rusting...
 
I saw the BMR ones, and have a couple of questions. Do the upper tube braces interfere with exhaust or anything in the area?
I’m not picturing what they put together - the upper box and a pice of subframe up near the tank? It may be time to use my not HFT jack stands and take a look.
Do you have to pull the tank or tailpipes for installation? I’ve been looking for instal videos on the Wild Rides or LMR kits. (I hope they are similar enough to show the welder before I order parts.) Maybe there is one for the BMR’s?
I like not welding near the gas tank - if -that’s strong enough to not slip or bend something.

Do the bolted plates have enough surface area contact to do the job? I am thinking about roll bar mounts that are bolt vs weld in as a fair comparison.
Thanks!


I installed a set of bmr ones yesterday, the style with the tube uppers that tie into the frame. They’re actually really nice, and a little easier than having to drill the uppers through the floor. The lowers are way beefier than ones I’ve installed previously. Very thick gauge steel.

B5C68A53-2C6E-4D3F-8609-66C43BE5B956.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I saw the BMR ones, and have a couple of questions. Do the upper tube braces interfere with exhaust or anything in the area?
I’m not picturing what they put together - the upper box and a pice of subframe up near the tank? It may be time to use my not HFT jack stands and take a look.
Do you have to pull the tank or tailpipes for installation? I’ve been looking for instal videos on the Wild Rides or LMR kits. (I hope they are similar enough to show the welder before I order parts.) Maybe there is one for the BMR’s?
I like not welding near the gas tank - if -that’s strong enough to not slip or bend something.

Do the bolted plates have enough surface area contact to do the job? I am thinking about roll bar mounts that are bolt vs weld in as a fair comparison.
Thanks!
It’s kind of close to the tank, but a good ways away. You just pull the wheel and shock off and have full access to drill the mount.

1A2E8311-78F7-4A6C-AE43-E8FF0C877328.jpeg


It tucks really close to the factory frame so exhaust clearance shouldn’t be an issue. Tank stays in place as well for the install. Honestly I think they’re easier to install than the other kinds. Lots of surface area on the lower plates and they’re beefy.
 
  • Like
  • Useful
Reactions: 2 users
It’s kind of close to the tank, but a good ways away. You just pull the wheel and shock off and have full access to drill the mount.

1A2E8311-78F7-4A6C-AE43-E8FF0C877328.jpeg


It tucks really close to the factory frame so exhaust clearance shouldn’t be an issue. Tank stays in place as well for the install. Honestly I think they’re easier to install than the other kinds. Lots of surface area on the lower plates and they’re beefy.

I saw those. I haven't done my uppers yet, and I am interested in that kit.

Kurt
 
Wild Rides‘ Steve G scanned me a set of installation pages with pictures before going home for the long weekend. And he let me know when to call with any questions next week. I am pleased with the “not yet a customer“ service.He did not have a video to link to he could get out of the place that taped it, but you tube looked flooded. Thanks for the help,
 
I saw those. I haven't done my uppers yet, and I am interested in that kit.

Kurt
I was impressed with the uppers. After having don 2 sets of the wild rides style uppers and it’s always such a biotch to get the proper drill angle, at least with the drill I have at the shop. A palm drill may work better.

That bmr support bar looks like it would work good. So its 1 long bolt through that and the upper control arm?

I guess time will tell how well they actually stiffen the upper, first impressions are good. Yeah it’s a pretty long ass bolt, like 6in it so. There’s also a cross bar that ties the two upper boxes together.

F5723175-DB19-4BDF-A000-599B7599975C.jpeg


kind of a neat idea.
 
  • Like
  • Useful
Reactions: 4 users