Camber Keeps Readjusting Itself...

Discussion in '1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-' started by Nick Bos, Jan 10, 2018.

  1. Hey fellow stangers!

    I've been noticing that on my 1970 mustang coupe (stock 302), the camber will every now and then become really positive. And noticing this I usually turn the steering wheel around (if parked) or gently hit a bump (if moving) to kinda reset it back to it original camber....which makes it straight again. Its odd though as it kinda happens whenever and I'm not sure why. I already took it to a mechanic and they couldn't recreate the problem, they also aligned it to factory settings.

    Thank you!
     
  2. You adjuster is basicaly a cam lobe or excentric that rides in a boxed area ,as you turn the bolt the excentric moves the lower control arm in or out depending on what direction you turn the bolt . The problem is somehow this bolt is turning on its own . Could be rough roads or possibly oil or grease under the excentric . Your best bet would be to get the excentric eliminate kit ,it bolts solid using several holes to chose from for the correct setting . You can get this kit from any of the Mustang parts dealers camber-adjustment.jpg tcpee01_1.1109.jpg
     
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  3. Sounds like to me that you have some worn out or loose suspension parts. If hitting a bump knocks it back into place then you likely have worn ball joints, upper or lower bushings or loose upper control arm bolts at the shock tower. Do you hear any popping or any other noises when you are parked and turning the wheel?
     
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  4. If the bolt is turning, would it be possible to just put a lock washer on it?
     
  5. No ,because it is the excentric that turns ,if that is what is happening. If oil or grease gets under the excentric it may not matter how tight you get the nut
     
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  6. I'm with tos on this one, something is bad in the suspension. If the camber adjustment is loose, it's not going back when you turn the wheel or hit a bump. You have a warn out part, probably a ball joint.
     
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  7. Alright thanks guys!

    I don’t think it’s the camber adjuster anymore and now it’s starting to look like worn lower ball joints. I’ve started hearing a squeaking noise (like a mattress with worn out springs) when I drive. And what’s a good way to check bushings on suspension?
     
  8. there should be NO movement in any front end JOINT, that includes control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman arm, any part that pivots. Jack up one side with a floor jack or a bottle jack under the lower control arm as close to the tire as you can without touching the tire. hold the bottom of the tire and push in and out, if you feel ANY play or click or thump, you need to have someone look for that movement while you're doing it. Then repeat with the top of the tire, then move to one hand on the front and one hand on the rear and check for any movement there.
     
  9. Pro tip on the alignment: factory settings is usually bad. These cars came with bias ply tires and the factory setting is made for those. Radial tires will work best with different settings. Unfortunately I don't know what good settings with radial tires are off the top of my head but the question has been asked and answered multiple times here so you can find a good alignment spec with the search function and a few minutes of reading.
     
  10. Hey guys I think I’ve got it!

    I checked the lower and upper ball joints and it showed no sign of wear. So we checked the bushings and sure enough they’re dry rotted out. What we think causes the camber to change so suddenly is that the lower control arm has a lot of play where it meets with the camber adjustment lobe. I think the bushing is bad...or maybe the control arm is just worn. The control arm still pivots off that bushing where the cam is but...it also travels a good bit linearly in and out of the bushing which seems like a red flag.

    What do you guys think?
    Thanks!
     
  11. Me thinks you found it. But don't stop there make sure everything else is tight.
     
  12. Torch the bushing out and replace it with a poly bushing. Also when you put it together, slather the frame/torque box side and the bushing faces that contact the frame with silver antiseize, this will keep the poly bushings from sounds crunchy and squeaking like crazy.
     
  13. Thanks so much guys! I don’t think I could’ve found the problem that quick without you. I’ll try to change it out soon because it’s getting progressively worse...but my engineering classes may conflict with that. I’ll keep you posted!
    Thanks again!
     
  14. Yep get it fixed as soon as possible. That's a very dangerous condition. You hit a dip in the road on a curve and you'll likely be in the ditch or opposing lane. You can get new upper and lower control arms complete with balljoints and bushings ready to bolt on.