Progress Thread Darkfader's 93 Gt Progress- Heads are here!!

darkfader

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Feb 16, 2017
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Davis, WV
Hi everyone, I wanted to wait a bit to start a progress thread but after the many hours I’ve spent reading and researching, my head is spinning with information overload and several unanswered questions. So I’ve decided to go ahead and make the thread in hopes that some of the folks who’ve “been around the block” can add some insight and I’ll have all the information in one place for easy access.

So here goes. White '93 GT 5speed, 140k on the clock. I’m the third owner. It lived in a garage until 2013, when the PO bought it. In around 4 weeks, my garage will be finished and it will go back inside, and the real fun will begin.

THE GOOD
I can’t find any rust on the car anywhere other than some small paint chips. All stock motor and trans, no mods other than a BBK CAI, and full exhaust of unknown manufacturers. It starts right up and drives straight and smooth, shifts well except downshifting from 5th to 4th feels strange to me.
THE BAD
The steering rack is leaking from the passenger side boot, and it also appears that oil is leaking past the front main seal. Everything else under the car is relatively clean and perfectly dry. Lots of little maintenance items are needed like door hinge pins, broken ashtray door, etc. Normal foxbody things that are expected on a 24 year old car.
THE UGLY
The paint is not amazing by any means. There are plenty of rock chips on the front clip and 3-5 small dings on the sides of the car as well as a small ripple in the sheet metal near the rearward corners of the sunroof. It appears maybe the car was “parked” a bit too close to a parking stopper, evidenced by bent fog light brackets, tweaked air dam, and dinged lower core support. The interior is all there, but the carpet is stained and the seat upholstery is quite “previously enjoyed”.

Picture of tweaked lower front bumper cover:

7DB86DD5-2CEF-45F2-B0FF-38C0655DB405.jpeg
 
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darkfader

Mustang Master
Feb 16, 2017
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317
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Davis, WV
So here’s what I had in mind for the car with the end result being a reliable N/A fair weather weekend only car that’s at home in the twisty mountain roads. It will never see a drag strip, although it’s possible it may see a road course once or twice in its life. Only for fun though, just a trackday type event, and that’s just a big maybe.

ENGINE
Pull the engine and disassemble. Send block, crank, rods, and pistons to the machine shop for measurements. I have a place local that can hot tank, magnaflux, align bore, etc. I’d have them install new freeze plugs, cam bearings and grind the crank if needed. They are also able to balance the assembly once I have all my parts together, which is what I need your advice on.

I am seriously lusting over the trick flow kit for the top end. I don’t know if the street burner or track heat kit is what’s best for me. I realize I will need to grab a new set of lifters on top of that, and I read all kinds of differing opinions on the included stage 1 cam. Should I have the block bored .030 over and add the matching TFS pistons for optimal results? Also, what gear ratio will be the most effective with this setup, 3.55 or 3.73? I believe TFS recommends 24lb injectors and of course matching MAF. I'm aware that a fuel pump upgrade will also be needed. One other question is the the twisted wedge heads have provisions for the smog pump or do I eliminate that? The car already has the off road H pipe.

SUSPENSION
While the block is being worked, I had planned to work on brakes, chassis, and suspension. I absolutely want the 5lug/4 disk brake setup. Is the SVE kit a safe buy for that? I love kits so I’m not spending valuable time tracking parts down. It’s a little spendy however, but it appears to have everything in one box sans the dust shields which are easy enough to order. Ideally I’d go with the 31 spline axle option and do the Ford Racing traction lok with my new gears all at once. With brakes sorted, I’d like to do MM sub frame connectors and rear LCA's. I’m seeing the preferred uppers are stock with rubber bushings so I’d replace those and any other bushings to freshen things up. I also have my heart set on coilovers and would go with the MM kits for that as well, with either the bilstein or konis. Not decided on brands of shock/strut yet. I figure the strut tower brace, k member brace and CC plates will all also be worthwhile.

I'm guessing I need a steering rack and from the forum, it sounds like my best bet is a stock unit from O'Reilly's unless I want to spend a small fortune.

That’s the first half of the resto basically. I do want to paint and definitely have ideas for the interior but I’ll save that discussion for now.

I really appreciate any tips you guys can give me with my plan. I’d like to be able to get the majority of this completed in time for spring.

I know everyone loves pics so this is how it looks after some compounding of the paint, pre-polish:

219ED95F-8454-49DB-98DA-D66EA11E9FFB.jpeg
A424CEBD-EDD0-4818-A89B-994397201089.jpeg
345F90FC-A6FA-490F-BDED-4AA527E7933D.jpeg
 

95BlueStallion

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Hey man, looks like you have a great foundation! My Trick Flow heads are relatively old (+/- 10 years I believe), but do have smog provisions that are now blocked off. I have heard many that like the TFS1 cam, but if you are comfortable measuring and ordering custom length pushrods, I would suggest having a custom cam ground by Ed Curtis. He can take your parts list and car specs, and give you a cam that will help you have the power right where you want it, once you decide what you are after.

Suspension wise, SVE products are mass produced in China. That is not always a bad thing, but I prefer to piece together American made parts, personally. Being that you may road course the car, I would probably opt for some reputable parts, rather than leaving quality to chance. I was able to find most of what I needed in fresh refurbished condition on Ebay. Brakes aside, I searched out new SN95 Cobra front brakes with 13" rotors. @Mustang5L5 detailed adding Corvette calipers to his car, with simply buying custom mounting brackets and brake lines, which is pretty trick.

I have read similar things about steering racks, and @Mustang5L5 also detailed the parts and install of an '03-'04 Cobra rack. Might not be needed for your application, but its a decent upgrade for not much more $ than a stock rack. Again, all part numbers are in his thread. If nothing else, I would recommend using a solid steering shaft, eliminating the "rag joint" which is where the steering slop usually comes from. Thats kinda all I have for input off the top of my head. Cant wait to see more of your build as you progress.
 

Mustang5L5

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Give this a read to at least begin to familiarize yourself with the process. The big box parts stores don't sell a full kit, but more or less pieces of the kit like the front brakes or rears, there are still a lot more components and decisions to make based on which route you go.

https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-2300-K.pdf

Basically I recommend 2 setups. Either full Cobra 13"/11.65" setup as above, or run the GT/V6 11"/10" setup using the 99+ front calipers. Ford setups are easy to find parts for, rotors and cheap, and reman calipers are cheap if a part ever breaks down the road. This can get expensive depending on your choice of parts/rotors/calipers/etc you choose to run. The '00 Brembos are a nice option too...if you can find a set.

Steering is also the same story. The 03-04 rack upgrade isn't cheap. $250 or so just for the adapter steering shaft and then you need to find a rack, but the steering feel is much more improved. Unsure if you just want to swap an OEM rack in for now, or spend $700 for something you might only really begin to appreciate out on a road course.

Mustangs are like lego sets for adults. You can do so much.


I'm also doing TFS170 heads on my car, but with a ported cobra intake rather than the TFS intake. I was going to run the TFS1 camshaft, but really debating a custom grind right now.
 

darkfader

Mustang Master
Feb 16, 2017
237
317
83
46
Davis, WV
Hey man, looks like you have a great foundation! My Trick Flow heads are relatively old (+/- 10 years I believe), but do have smog provisions that are now blocked off. I have heard many that like the TFS1 cam, but if you are comfortable measuring and ordering custom length pushrods, I would suggest having a custom cam ground by Ed Curtis. He can take your parts list and car specs, and give you a cam that will help you have the power right where you want it, once you decide what you are after.

Suspension wise, SVE products are mass produced in China. That is not always a bad thing, but I prefer to piece together American made parts, personally. Being that you may road course the car, I would probably opt for some reputable parts, rather than leaving quality to chance. I was able to find most of what I needed in fresh refurbished condition on Ebay. Brakes aside, I searched out new SN95 Cobra front brakes with 13" rotors. @Mustang5L5 detailed adding Corvette calipers to his car, with simply buying custom mounting brackets and brake lines, which is pretty trick.

I have read similar things about steering racks, and @Mustang5L5 also detailed the parts and install of an '03-'04 Cobra rack. Might not be needed for your application, but its a decent upgrade for not much more $ than a stock rack. Again, all part numbers are in his thread. If nothing else, I would recommend using a solid steering shaft, eliminating the "rag joint" which is where the steering slop usually comes from. Thats kinda all I have for input off the top of my head. Cant wait to see more of your build as you progress.

Awesome info, thanks! I have seen Ed's name mentioned quite a few times in my reading so that may be the direction I go. I’m mostly wanting to be sure I have decent drivability throughout the rev range. But really, I don’t plan on road coursing the car. Maaaaaybe one track day a year. Living in the mountains of WV, I have really fun twisty roads I can drive for free. Thanks for the tips on the brake system as well, I’ll consult the shopping list and start rounding up parts.


Also, this was the project I finished up last year. Started with nothing but a bare frame. Too many mods to list. I live fairly close to a track at Summit Point, WV and they have car days there too. I wouldn’t mind letting the stang stretch it’s legs there once it’s all done. Wait, are they ever done?

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0F0EB15B-3977-4DA7-9B3F-8C98D1F870D2.jpeg
 
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darkfader

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I just scored a pair of spindles and hubs off a 95 stang at a local JY. Only 85$ for the pair. Pretty stoked about that. After looking around last night it looks like I can build a nice 5 lug/4 disc setup quite a bit cheaper than that SVE kit. I appreciate the help so far 95BlueStallion and Mustang5L5!
 
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FoxMustangLvr

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I just scored a pair of spindles and hubs off a 95 stang at a local JY. Only 85$ for the pair. Pretty stoked about that. After looking around last night it looks like I can build a nice 5 lug/4 disc setup quite a bit cheaper than that SVE kit. I appreciate the help so far 95BlueStallion and Mustang5L5!
I upgraded my brakes to the OEM Cobra 13"/11.65" versions. Excellent braking!! I found OEM Cobra calipers, rotors, shields on Ebay. I paid about $400 for them and they worked perfectly. Added some SS braided lines from Maximum Motorsports front and back, FRPP adj proportion valve, 93' Cobra brake booster, 93' Cobra master cylinder and flush the whole brake system and refill with new brake fluid. I put in Hawk HPS pads all four corners and car stops incredibly well.

Just because your car won't see track time doesn't mean you can/should skimp on quality. Hitting the mountain twisties deserves just as much attention to detail, function, and quality as anything else. I don't know what your budget is but if you're going to be hitting those turns pretty hard then you need to get rid of the 4 link rear end and convert it to 3 link using a torque arm with a panhard bar. Or you could do it the "right" way and go IRS :stir:
 
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darkfader

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My wallet hates you people already! Lol but seriously, so I should shop for ‘93 cobra brake parts or later year models? The ‘93 has the dual piston calipers and 13”fr/11.65r correct? Mustang5L5, that look makes my jeans fit tight.
 

FoxMustangLvr

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My wallet hates you people already! Lol but seriously, so I should shop for ‘93 cobra brake parts or later year models? The ‘93 has the dual piston calipers and 13”fr/11.65r correct? Mustang5L5, that look makes my jeans fit tight.
You already have the 95' spindles, now you'll want the 94-04 calipers, rotors, & dust shields front and back, for your brake booster and master cylinder you'll want to shop at LMR for a 93' Cobra style. It takes parts from 3 different generations to perform this swap.
 

FoxMustangLvr

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1993 Cobra is 4-lug, you want 1994-later Cobra.

Are you going 11.65" Cobra rear? I can't tell if those are the correct brackets. They may be I'd run the part numbers on them.

Depending on price, you can get rear kit here

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-2300-m

No calipers however
The primary difference is that the Cobra rotors are vented which makes them thicker which means you have to purchase thinner brake pads for the rear.

EDIT: bad info removed
 
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Mustang5L5

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I believe the brackets work the same for both GT and Cobra rear brakes, they're both 11.65" dia. The primary difference is that the Cobra rotors are vented which makes them thicker which means you have to purchase thinner brake pads for the rear.

GT rotors are 10.5". There's a offset difference between the GT and Cobra brackets to account for it
 

darkfader

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Feb 16, 2017
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Davis, WV
Googling the part numbers on those brackets is telling me I need to run SN95 length axles. I don’t want to do that right? I can go through north race cars for the brackets, these just came up on a kit on eBay that’s going for cheap. Dust shields, moan brackets, calipers and rotors and those brackets. Thought I might bid if it stays cheap.
 

darkfader

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Feb 16, 2017
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Davis, WV
And yes I’d like to be 13” up front and 11.65” in the rear. So If everything comes from a 95 cobra beside master and booster I should be good? I’ll get the lines and miscellaneous from maximum motorsports and lmr depending on what I need to complete.
 

darkfader

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Feb 16, 2017
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Davis, WV
I was really hoping to run a wheel that is 17x9, 5.95BS, +24 offset if that helps. I hope all this works. I can easily just get the north race cars brackets if necessary.
 

95BlueStallion

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I havent converted my rears yet, so I come up short on that info. If you can score EVERYTHING '95 Cobra, you are good. I mean, it worked together well in that car, so why wouldnt it in yours? What I dont know is the difference between '93 master cyl, and '95. I assume they both fit? Hopefully someone can confirm that first hand.
 
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95BlueStallion

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I upgraded my brakes to the OEM Cobra 13"/11.65" versions. Excellent braking!! I found OEM Cobra calipers, rotors, shields on Ebay. I paid about $400 for them and they worked perfectly. Added some SS braided lines from Maximum Motorsports front and back, FRPP adj proportion valve, 93' Cobra brake booster, 93' Cobra master cylinder and flush the whole brake system and refill with new brake fluid. I put in Hawk HPS pads all four corners and car stops incredibly well.

Just because your car won't see track time doesn't mean you can/should skimp on quality. Hitting the mountain twisties deserves just as much attention to detail, function, and quality as anything else. I don't know what your budget is but if you're going to be hitting those turns pretty hard then you need to get rid of the 4 link rear end and convert it to 3 link using a torque arm with a panhard bar. Or you could do it the "right" way and go IRS :stir:

I just bought LCA's last week, and rebuilt my drums over last winter. Before I convert to rear disks, I am highly considering sending the LCA's back, and just saving for an IRS. That would effectively update everything I need for brakes and control arms, as well as help my handling. Its burning in my mind as of late, and Im due for giving my wife another "moment."
 
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