Did I fry my ECU???

Bills89GT

Member
Jun 16, 2010
127
0
16
Canton CT
I don't know if any of you remember, but a while back, after I had swapped my 2.3l to a 5.0l I had an issue. I couldn't get it to run right and couldn't pull codes. I changed the ECU and it ran better and I could pull codes. I've done some tinkering and stopped a couple vacuum leaks and its running halfway decent but since I just bought a house I havn't been able to work much on it.

Yesterday I contacted American Muscle's "Bama Tuning" about an SCT 4-Bank Eliminator Chip with a tune for my mods. (anyone have experience with them? they seem very helpful). he asked a few questions about the car so I started messing with stuff and realized I can't pull any codes again! I dunno what's going on. I don't want to fry the chip if I buy it... If I did fry the ECU, how do I find out what did it??

Just incase it matters, Its an 89 v8 conversion 5 spd. It has an 89 mass air harness with an a9l ECU. the computer I had before was for an automatic
 
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Computer will not go into diagnostic mode on 86-90 model 5.0 Mustangs

Disconnect the battery positive terminal before making any resistance checks.
The small voltage drop in the battery cables will cause incorrect resistance readings.


Computer diagnostic connector:

B.jpg


How it is supposed to work:
The black/white wire (pin 46) is signal ground for the computer. It provides a dedicated
ground for the EGR, Baro, ACT, ECT, & TPS sensors as well as the ground to put the
computer into self test mode. If this ground is bad, none of the sensors mentioned will work
properly. That will severely affect the car's performance. You will have hard starting, low power
and drivability problems.
Since it is a dedicated ground, it passes through the computer on its
way to the computer main power ground that terminates at the battery pigtail ground. It should
read less than 1.5 ohms when measured from anyplace on the engine harness with the battery
pigtail ground as the other reference point for the ohmmeter probe.

What sometimes happens is that the test connector black/white wire gets jumpered to power.
There is a dark brown connector with a black/orange wire near the diagnostic connector. It is
the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. If this happens, it either burns up the wiring or
burns the trace off the pc board inside the computer. That trace connects pins 46 to pins 40 &
60. It is best if an experienced electronics technician opens the computer up & repairs the trace if
it burns up and creates an open circuit.

The STI (Self Test Input ) is jumpered to ground to put the computer into test mode. The STI
has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire Jumpering it to power can produce unknown
results, including damage to the computer. The ohm test simply verifies that there are no breaks
in the wiring between the test connector and the computer input.

How to test the wiring :
With the power off, measure the resistance between the computer test ground
(black/white wire) on the self test connector and battery ground. You should see less than
1.5 ohms.

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If that check fails, remove the passenger side kick panel and disconnect the computer
connector. There is a 10 MM bolt that holds it in place. Measure the resistance between
the black/white wire and pin 46 on the computer wiring connector: it should be less than
1.5 ohms. More that 1.5 ohms is a wiring problem. If it reads 1.5 ohms or less, then the
computer is suspect. On the computer, measure the resistance between pin 46 and pins
40 & 60: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that that and the computer’s internal
ground has failed, and the computer needs to be replaced.

If the first ground check was good, there are other wires to check. Measure the
resistance between the STI computer self test connector (red/white wire) and pin 48 on
the computer main connector: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that 1.5 ohms is a
wiring problem

The following is a view from the computer side of the computer wiring connector.
eec04.gif


Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

Check out the diagram and notice all the places the black/white wire goes. Almost every
sensor on the engine except the MAF is connected to it.
88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds
(website host) for help on 88-95 wiring Mustang FAQ - Wiring & Engine Info


See Computer issue? - Mustang Forums at StangNet for more help on fixing the computer innards.
 
Thank you jrichker I'll go through all that tomorrow. I also found that when I go to test my TPS voltage I have around 5 volts coming back on all three wires :shrug:

Thanks for the info on the chip. I guess I'll just try it and if doesn't work I'll put it on a dyno like 281pony. I just hope there's a shop around CT that can use the sct chip to tune it
 
picked up over 20 rwhp and torque, mileage and driveability using my sct 4 bank chip with a dyno tune. they are worth it if you use them properly.

If i've read your other posts correct, you have a h/c/i setup with twisted wedges.
You also made 300rwhp, correct?

Sorry but all the chip did was fix other issues you had.

A twisted wedge setup easily makes 300rwhp with no chip.
I've even seen cars in the 330's.

I've seen it tested (in person) over and over.
A properly assembled setup sees pretty much no gain with a chip.
Anyone that tunes a h/c/i fox with a chip, is just stealing your money.
 
I have no idea what kind of power I'm putting down. I would love to know though because I think I'm running way too large an injector with the 30#ers. what would you suggest for a tune in my case. I'm also running just under 11:1 compression so i dunno if that changes things too
 
Oops I just realized you were talking to 281pony. I'm running twisted wedge heads too so i was confused...
With my setup what would the best way to tune it? I got another email from the people at Bama Tuning that they wouldn't be able tomake me a tune for my car without putting it on a dyno anyway
 
Alright...
I went all through that checklist and here are my results:
From the black/ white wire on the test connector to the battery ground is 715 ohms

From the black/ white wire on the test connector to pin 46 on the harness is .1 ohms

From pin 46 on the computer to pin 40 is .001 ohms

From pin 46 to pin 60 is also .001 ohms

From the red/ white wire on the sti connector to pin 48 is .1 ohms

All these measurements were taken with a cheapo meter, my fluke is at work

Sooo what's next??
 
Bills89GT said:
From the black/ white wire on the test connector to the battery ground is 715 ohms

Something is wacko, and I need to look at the diagrams and think about it for awhile.

The main reading concerning the computer is pin 46 to pin 40/60, and it looks good.
 
Something is wacko, and I need to look at the diagrams and think about it for awhile.

The main reading concerning the computer is pin 46 to pin 40/60, and it looks good.

Thank you for your help. I did a little more messing around with it today after looking at the diagram you posted. From pins 20, 40, and 60 to battery ground I had .2 ohms or less on each of them, so the computer does seem to be grounded well. I also have just under 5 volts from the sig rtn and the green return wire on the tp sensor plug.
 
Remove the computer and coil wire. Hook a multimeter to pin 46 and chassis. Crank the engine. Do you have voltage on pin 46? if so, that's your problem. Your o2 harness is mismatched and you need to change the jumper pin location on the harness.


No voltage on 46 during crank....issue lies elsewhere
 
Alright thank you, I'll take a look at that. That is a possibility because I had to buy the O2 harness new, I did make sure to get it for a manual tranny. Do you know what the jumper wire pinout should be for my car? I remember seeing a thread on here somewhere about those harnesses being different throughout the years.
 
alright I took a look at the o2 harness after taking a look at that thread and it looked wrong so I swapped the jumper wire and still no codes and I am still getting just under 5 volts back on the sig rtn wire at all the sensors. could this be a bad sensor doing this somehow??

I also didn't seem to get any voltage on 46 after swapping the jumper wire. I forgot to check it before I swapped it though so i dunno if that was doing something. i'm gonna take apart the computer and see if the trace for pin 46 looks burnt
 
Well it looks as though I fried it I took the case appart and here's what i found on pin 46
1016101426a.jpg

So how do I find out what caused this? was it probably the O2 harness or could there be something else screwing with it. I don't want to throw a new one in there and do the same thing.
Can I fix this by simply running a wire over the bad trace or could I have fried something else?
 
Something in that o2 harness doesn't look right. What is it out of.

I think having voltage on pin 46 is def your issue. Before putting a new ecu in, you need to make sure you don't have voltage on 46.