Head Bolts, but no Moly Lube

[1105]

Most of you know I purchased a set of Twisted Wedge heads and today I finally got all of the parts needed to put them on BUT I did not pick up any moly lube and by time I get off work tomorrow the shops will be closed and I planned on tearing my car down tomorrow night.

On the instructions that came with the ARP Head Bolts is says you can use 30wt oil and torque them down to 85ft lbs, but doesnt give you a torque spec for aluminum heads ALTHOUGH it says to torque the bolts down to 60ft lbs with moly lube on aluminum heads, 65ft lbs on everything else. Does this mean I should torque my bolts down to 80ft lbs with the motor oil on them??? I need to know what I need to get before I strat ripping parts off.

What did you use on the bolts and what did you torque them down to if you didnt use moly lube?

 

[Rootus]

I did use moly lube, but I torqued them to 80 ft-lbs in three steps. But that's for AFR's, not TW. Not sure why there would be a huge difference.

BTW, do you have thread sealer? You'll need it for the lower bolts.

Dave

 

[67stang390]

I just installed my Trick Flow High Port heads, but I had moly lube. I followed the torque pattern and torqued everything down first to 35, then 50, and finally 70 ft/lbs. The row of bolts on the top of the heads (the longer ones) I torqued an additional 10 ft/lbs. for a total of 80 ft/lbs. Also, like HairyCanary said, you must use thread sealer on some of the bolts. I used some kind of aviation glue stuff and put it on all the bolts, just to be safe. I think the only bolts that really need it are ones near coolant passages.

Are you putting moly lube on the whole length of the bolt, or just on the washer? I was under the assumption that the moly lube was only supposed to go between the head, the washer, and the top of the bolt. If I were you, I would go buy some moly lube just to be safe. You really don't want problems with your heads later on. However, if that isn't an option, 85 ft/lbs. seems about right.

 

[1105]

The torque specs I got were not form Twisted Wedge but from ARP Bolts that I bought. I didn't pick up any thread sealer but I'm sure we have some here, if not walmart should have some that I can use.

Dave, were thoes torque specs given to you by ARF? I'm going to check out Trick Flows web site to see what they have to say but if it says something different, should I go with the torque specs of from TFS or the ones from AFR

 

[Rootus]

Dave, were thoes torque specs given to you by ARF? I'm going to check out Trick Flows web site to see what they have to say but if it says something different, should I go with the torque specs of from TFS or the ones from AFR

I used the specs from AFR. Come to think of it, after reading 67stang390's post, I realize that I did the same as he did -- 80 on the top, 70 on the bottom. For the top bolts, I used the moly lube on the threads, and on both sides of the washer. For the bottom bolts, I used thread sealer on the threads, and moly lube on both sides of the washer.

While I'm thinking about it -- do you have any thread chasers? I'd highly recommend chasing the threads before installing the new heads. Any crud in those bolt holes could screw up your torque readings.

Dave

 

[S/CBlack95GT]

You MUST use a non-drying sealer on the lower(short) bolts. The sealer you buy at Wal-Mart will most likely not work, at least it didnt for me(bad past experience).

I use the ARP moly lube on the long bolts and ARP thread sealer on the short bolts. Apply the sealer and lube to the threads and washer area under the head of bolt. Torque them all to 60ft-lbs with aluminum heads. The sealer and lube is much much slicker than 30wt oil so 60 ft-lbs is equal to 80ft-lbs.

You can get the sealer and lube from Summit and it will be at your door in a couple days.