Heater Core causing OVERheating?
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desertcox05
New Member
hotcobra03
Active Member
running hot
i have nothing on 5.0 . this is from 03 but should be enough to read on electric fans...SECTION 303-03A: Engine Cooling 2003 Mustang Workshop Manual
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Procedure revision date: 11/12/2002
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Engine Cooling Printable View (14 KB)
CAUTION: Vehicle cooling systems are filled with Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant VC-7-A (in Oregon VC-7-B) or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B51-A1 (yellow color). Always fill the cooling system with the same coolant that is present in the system. Do not mix coolant types.
NOTE: The addition of Motorcraft Cooling System Stop Leak Pellets, VC-6, darkens Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant from yellow to golden tan.
The 4.6L cooling system components include the:
block heater
engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor
fan blade, fan motor and fan shroud assembly
radiator
pressure relief cap
radiator draincock
coolant pump
coolant thermostat
oil filter adapter
radiator overflow hose
upper radiator hose
lower radiator hose
The radiator overflow hose circulates the coolant.
The coolant thermostat:
controls the engine coolant temperature.
allows for quicker engine warm-up.
The degas bottle/coolant expansion tank:
provides a location for service fill.
contains coolant expansion and system pressurization.
provides air separation during operation.
replenishes the engine coolant to the system.
The engine coolant flows:
from the lower radiator hose to the coolant pump.
from the coolant pump to the engine block and the cylinder heads.
The 3.8L cooling system components include the:
block heater
engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor
fan blade, fan motor and fan shroud assembly
radiator
radiator cap
radiator draincock
coolant pump
coolant thermostat
oil filter adapter
radiator overflow hose
coolant expansion tank
upper radiator hose
lower radiator hose
The fan blade draws air through the radiator to help cool the engine coolant.
The fan motor:
operates only when the ignition switch is in the RUN position.
will not operate with the switch in the OFF position.
The engine coolant:
flows through the radiator tubes and is cooled by passing air over the cooling fins.
is then circulated from the radiator outlet tank through the coolant pump and into the cylinder block to complete the circuit.
A closed coolant thermostat returns the engine coolant to the coolant pump. An open coolant thermostat allows the engine coolant to flow to the radiator.
CAUTION: Engine coolant provides freeze protection, boil protection, cooling efficiency, and corrosion protection to the engine and cooling components. In order to obtain these protections, the engine coolant must be maintained at the correct concentration and fluid level in the degas bottle (4.6L) or coolant expansion tank (3.8L).
When adding engine coolant, use a 50/50 mixture of engine coolant and deionized water.
To maintain the integrity of the coolant and the cooling system:
NOTE: The addition of Motorcraft Cooling System Stop Leak Pellets, VC-6, darkens Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant from yellow to golden tan.
Add Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant VC-7-A (in Oregon VC-7-B) or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B51-A1 (yellow color). Use the same coolant that is present in the cooling system. Do not mix coolant types.
Do not add/mix orange-colored Motorcraft Speciality Orange Engine Coolant VC-2 or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B44-D. Mixing coolants may degrade the coolant's corrosion protection.
Do not add alcohol, methanol, or brine, or any engine coolants mixed with alcohol or methanol antifreeze. These can cause engine damage from overheating or freezing.
Do not mix with recycled coolant unless it meets the requirements of Ford specification WSS-M97B51-A1. Not all coolant recycling processes meet these Ford specifications. Use of such coolants can harm the engine and cooling system components.
The coolant temperature sensor (4.6L) or cylinder head temperature sensor (3.8L) provides a signal to the temperature gauge.
The optional block heater:
electrical heating element is installed in the core plug opening.
uses a standard 110V electrical supply
keeps the engine coolant warm during cold weather.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fan Control
The PCM monitors certain parameters (such as engine coolant temperature, vehicle speed, A/C on/off status, A/C pressure, etc) to determine engine cooling fan needs.
For Variable Speed Electric Fan(s):
The PCM controls the fan speed and operation using a duty cycle output on the Fan Control - Variable (FCV) circuit. The fan controller (located at or integral to the engine cooling fan assembly) receives the FCV command and operates the cooling fan at the speed requested (by varying the power applied to the fan motor).
i have nothing on 5.0 . this is from 03 but should be enough to read on electric fans...SECTION 303-03A: Engine Cooling 2003 Mustang Workshop Manual
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Procedure revision date: 11/12/2002
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Engine Cooling Printable View (14 KB)
CAUTION: Vehicle cooling systems are filled with Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant VC-7-A (in Oregon VC-7-B) or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B51-A1 (yellow color). Always fill the cooling system with the same coolant that is present in the system. Do not mix coolant types.
NOTE: The addition of Motorcraft Cooling System Stop Leak Pellets, VC-6, darkens Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant from yellow to golden tan.
The 4.6L cooling system components include the:
block heater
engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor
fan blade, fan motor and fan shroud assembly
radiator
pressure relief cap
radiator draincock
coolant pump
coolant thermostat
oil filter adapter
radiator overflow hose
upper radiator hose
lower radiator hose
The radiator overflow hose circulates the coolant.
The coolant thermostat:
controls the engine coolant temperature.
allows for quicker engine warm-up.
The degas bottle/coolant expansion tank:
provides a location for service fill.
contains coolant expansion and system pressurization.
provides air separation during operation.
replenishes the engine coolant to the system.
The engine coolant flows:
from the lower radiator hose to the coolant pump.
from the coolant pump to the engine block and the cylinder heads.
The 3.8L cooling system components include the:
block heater
engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor
fan blade, fan motor and fan shroud assembly
radiator
radiator cap
radiator draincock
coolant pump
coolant thermostat
oil filter adapter
radiator overflow hose
coolant expansion tank
upper radiator hose
lower radiator hose
The fan blade draws air through the radiator to help cool the engine coolant.
The fan motor:
operates only when the ignition switch is in the RUN position.
will not operate with the switch in the OFF position.
The engine coolant:
flows through the radiator tubes and is cooled by passing air over the cooling fins.
is then circulated from the radiator outlet tank through the coolant pump and into the cylinder block to complete the circuit.
A closed coolant thermostat returns the engine coolant to the coolant pump. An open coolant thermostat allows the engine coolant to flow to the radiator.
CAUTION: Engine coolant provides freeze protection, boil protection, cooling efficiency, and corrosion protection to the engine and cooling components. In order to obtain these protections, the engine coolant must be maintained at the correct concentration and fluid level in the degas bottle (4.6L) or coolant expansion tank (3.8L).
When adding engine coolant, use a 50/50 mixture of engine coolant and deionized water.
To maintain the integrity of the coolant and the cooling system:
NOTE: The addition of Motorcraft Cooling System Stop Leak Pellets, VC-6, darkens Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant from yellow to golden tan.
Add Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant VC-7-A (in Oregon VC-7-B) or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B51-A1 (yellow color). Use the same coolant that is present in the cooling system. Do not mix coolant types.
Do not add/mix orange-colored Motorcraft Speciality Orange Engine Coolant VC-2 or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B44-D. Mixing coolants may degrade the coolant's corrosion protection.
Do not add alcohol, methanol, or brine, or any engine coolants mixed with alcohol or methanol antifreeze. These can cause engine damage from overheating or freezing.
Do not mix with recycled coolant unless it meets the requirements of Ford specification WSS-M97B51-A1. Not all coolant recycling processes meet these Ford specifications. Use of such coolants can harm the engine and cooling system components.
The coolant temperature sensor (4.6L) or cylinder head temperature sensor (3.8L) provides a signal to the temperature gauge.
The optional block heater:
electrical heating element is installed in the core plug opening.
uses a standard 110V electrical supply
keeps the engine coolant warm during cold weather.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fan Control
The PCM monitors certain parameters (such as engine coolant temperature, vehicle speed, A/C on/off status, A/C pressure, etc) to determine engine cooling fan needs.
For Variable Speed Electric Fan(s):
The PCM controls the fan speed and operation using a duty cycle output on the Fan Control - Variable (FCV) circuit. The fan controller (located at or integral to the engine cooling fan assembly) receives the FCV command and operates the cooling fan at the speed requested (by varying the power applied to the fan motor).
Zero_chance
Founding Member
Same general idea with the newer stlye setup but controlled a little differently. As for unplugging the temp sensor, that still relies on the PCM seeing that input and then directing the CCRM to turn the fan on. The only definite way to check the fan would be to get a jumper wire, hook a ground to the black wire of the connector on the fan side, not the harness side, and then get a single power wire and touch it to either of the other two wires (but not both simulataneously like pointed out). If it comes on, fans good.
hotcobra03
Active Member
dont take this litely
my 03 cobra cracked a head over this problem.. i dont know the style of your fan but on mine all of the fan blades are connected by a plastic ring...the ring cracked and when fan starts to spin the fan blade gets jambed and fan wasnt spinning even though the fan worked
my 03 cobra cracked a head over this problem.. i dont know the style of your fan but on mine all of the fan blades are connected by a plastic ring...the ring cracked and when fan starts to spin the fan blade gets jambed and fan wasnt spinning even though the fan worked
*UPDATE*
I had the entire cooling system flushed which apparently freed up a blockage within the heater core. I have TONS of hot air coming out now! The cooling fan wasn't turning on due to the ground wire coming loose inside the electrical wrapping. I put some radiator leak stopper in my Mishimoto and now I think I can finally close the book on my coolant system woes. A bonus for all the work today was discovering that my harmonic balancer was not balanced whatsoever. I always attributed the shaking of my engine to the deterioration of my engine mounts, but when I replace the balancer tomorrow, I should be greeted with a lot LESS shaking all over...Now if I could only figure out how some exhaust is coming in through the heat and from where. It doesn't come through the vents at all when the A/C is on. So I don't know what to think. Thanks for all of your input on this issue!!!
I had the entire cooling system flushed which apparently freed up a blockage within the heater core. I have TONS of hot air coming out now! The cooling fan wasn't turning on due to the ground wire coming loose inside the electrical wrapping. I put some radiator leak stopper in my Mishimoto and now I think I can finally close the book on my coolant system woes. A bonus for all the work today was discovering that my harmonic balancer was not balanced whatsoever. I always attributed the shaking of my engine to the deterioration of my engine mounts, but when I replace the balancer tomorrow, I should be greeted with a lot LESS shaking all over...Now if I could only figure out how some exhaust is coming in through the heat and from where. It doesn't come through the vents at all when the A/C is on. So I don't know what to think. Thanks for all of your input on this issue!!!
hotcobra03
Active Member
heat
thats great....as to smell..maybe give it a week of burning hot ,,and check to see if the door (outside air)is closing?
thats great....as to smell..maybe give it a week of burning hot ,,and check to see if the door (outside air)is closing?
The smell isn't anything new. It's been there for over a year. By "burning hot" were you suggesting that I run it on high for a week straight to see if the smell disappears? Also, the doors are closing tightly and I was just under the car and tightened up the exhaust. The smell is coming through the vents.
hotcobra03
Active Member
the smell
yea if your heatercore has not been getting hot for awile thier could be a buildup of who knows on it,,,,i do believe it should always be as hot as the radiator..which if you spill antifrezze on it it has to burn off? just a thought
yea if your heatercore has not been getting hot for awile thier could be a buildup of who knows on it,,,,i do believe it should always be as hot as the radiator..which if you spill antifrezze on it it has to burn off? just a thought
My heater core just went on me. You will experience fluid leaking from the lower firewall on the passenger side. There is an A/C condensation weep hole which doubles as an exit for coolant when the core ruptures. If you are losing coolant or smelling coolant it needs to be addressed. You can bypass the core for now, but if that is not the problem I would definitely replace the thermostat and the radiator cap because you could be overheating from a closed or partially closed thermostat and overheating will damage the seal on your radiator cap. Both are cheap and easy to replace. Attached photo is how i bypassed my core. Easy fix with a heater hose connector 3/4" to 5/8" and you use the 2 hose clamps present or buy 2 new ones. good luck!!
Attachments
he likely has it fixed by now.
