I have been studying the “cranks, no start“ troubleshooting thread for a bit now. My situation: 88 GT cranks and no start after I replaced the battery and start solenoid. Tonight I replaced the fuel filter and cycled the key while it was off to check fuel pump - got fuel out of the supply side, so pump and filter is ok. If the fuel relay is bad or the inerita switch was tripped, I would not have power to the pump, correct?? I do not have any pressure at the Schrader Valve. I did spray start fluid into the intake and she fired right up, but died after the fluid burned up. That means I have spark if I’m thinking correctly (I’m by no means a mechanic). Could the ignition or fuel relay still be bad?? I am planning to check them anyway tomorrow, but I am getting frustrated and had to walk away tonight. The car does have almost a full tank of gas - it smells ok to me, but I have no idea how long it has been sitting.
Resolved Help! - Fuel Problem
- Thread starter sfckelley
- Start date
Threads that have been [Resolved] by the OP or Moderator
-
Sponsors (?)
Sounds like you have a restriction somewhere in that fuel supply line. Did you maybe crush a line with a jackstand or a jack?
You are correct so far in everything you've said, so no issues with any of the relays or ignition components. If the gas doesn't stink like
ty liquor then I'd say it's fine. lol
You are correct so far in everything you've said, so no issues with any of the relays or ignition components. If the gas doesn't stink like
ty liquor then I'd say it's fine. lol
It is possible the pump is just very weak and is only able to push it to the filter but not all the way up if you get no pressure at the Schrader valve, assuming you can't find a mechanical/physical blockage in the lines.
Pull the line off the fuel filter and blow air back towards the tank, if its clear you are likely dropping the tank, the fuel pump has a short hose from the pump to the hanger that rots, splits and leaks, won't build pressure.
I take it that this stang is new to you.
I take it that this stang is new to you.
Yes, it is. After my father in law died, mother in law allowed my brother in law to keep it. He has not touched it since "June"... Claimed he had it running, but I have my doubts. I just got the car to try to restore it, she wants to drive it at least one more time. I thought I was just putting the interior back together and cleaning the car up a bit, but as it turns out, there are bigger issues and I'm in over my head! I just changed the fuel filter last night and cycled the key to see if I had fuel coming out of the tank when the pump primed and it did. So I was thinking the fuel pressure regulator, but now it seems I may be swapping the pump. Good times!
May not help one bit but have you checked for codes?
stangnet.com
Just to recap, you have voltage to the pump and the ECU is commanding the prime cycle of which all are good signs. If you can hear the pump run then the inertia switch is not tripped.
You could have a blockage after the fuel filter which can be checked by disconnecting the fuel line from the pump at the fuel rail and after the fuel filter and blow compressed air through it. My guess is this is all fine is you do not see any visual crimps in the lines.
I would be leaning towards a weak pump or the "S" hose that connects the pump to the hanger of which General and bird_dog covered. Do youself a favor and replace the pump and hose if you pull the tank. I would suggest a Walbro 190lph pump as that will provide plenty of fuel if you ever decide to warm the motor up with a head, cam, and intake swap and even some larger injectors.
LMR has them as do other vendors:
Another thing you can do before dropping the tank is to put a fuel pressure gauge at the schrader valve location on the fuel lines before the injector rails and see what pressure you are actually getting.
Electrical - How To Pull Codes From EEC-IV In 86- 95 5.0 Mustangs
@Noobz347 - The code dump procedure isn't in the sticky - you may want to add it... Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on. Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is...
stangnet.com
Just to recap, you have voltage to the pump and the ECU is commanding the prime cycle of which all are good signs. If you can hear the pump run then the inertia switch is not tripped.
You could have a blockage after the fuel filter which can be checked by disconnecting the fuel line from the pump at the fuel rail and after the fuel filter and blow compressed air through it. My guess is this is all fine is you do not see any visual crimps in the lines.
I would be leaning towards a weak pump or the "S" hose that connects the pump to the hanger of which General and bird_dog covered. Do youself a favor and replace the pump and hose if you pull the tank. I would suggest a Walbro 190lph pump as that will provide plenty of fuel if you ever decide to warm the motor up with a head, cam, and intake swap and even some larger injectors.
LMR has them as do other vendors:
Another thing you can do before dropping the tank is to put a fuel pressure gauge at the schrader valve location on the fuel lines before the injector rails and see what pressure you are actually getting.
The regulator is on the far side of the Schrader valve IIRC so if no pressure at the valve you won't see it at the regulator either (I think, my car isn't here).
Similar threads
