Innovate LC-2 Problem

Blown88GT

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Nov 13, 1999
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The controller light never goes solid green. It keeps quick flashing green which means calibrating.
This just started, don't know why. Calibration software doesn't seem to do anything.
 
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Blown88GT

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1999
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Palm Beach Gardens, FL
Some say sensor because dedicated gauge is reading 7.5 AFR all through warm up. TS gauge also stays low.
I'll have to try the sensor for $65. Mine's the fat one.
I just fixed everything else & now this...bummer!
sensoridentifier.jpg


New to me, 6 year old ultrabook laptop.
AFR gauge is top row, 2nd from left. Dead.
Datalog says the same, AFR=7.5
Waiting on screen filter to reduce reflections.
IMG_1717.JPG
 
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Blown88GT

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I have the narrow bands still wired in with a toggle switch on the MS ECU. Just have to reconfigure TS for the NB's.
It's supposed to be cooler for the weekend, want to get it out for a cruise.
Replacement sensor won't be here until next week. Found one in CA for $32.
 
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Blown88GT

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Nov 13, 1999
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Bought new sensor, still not working.
It's heating up but not getting very hot.
Called Innovate...they didn't know much.
Don't think I want to throw good money after bad.
After about 10 minutes, the sensor got smoking hot. Should take 30-60 sec.
I know that Steve recommends a different WB, the Zeitronix Zt-3.
It comes with the LSU 4.9 wideband oxygen sensor. I just bought the 4.3 (damn).
 
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Blown88GT

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Thanks for the info, Steve.
I'll have to do some reading on it, but it looks like it uses TS for calibration?
No need to calibrate the Spartan2 controller.

I'm now glad I wired my DIYPNP to use either the WB or the NB on the passenger size.
The one on the driver's side is attached to a NB AFR gauge.
Just installed 2 new Bosch NB sensors, probably had them for 10 years.

I assume since it was tuned with the WB, it should work the same with the NB?
 

a91what

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That is correct, keep in mind the NB sensors will only truly function at or near stoic. the AFR table will default to 14.7 as a target for ego as well. however this will not affect wot operation.

if you are fully tuned then really you should not need the WB in the car anyway
 

Blown88GT

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Nov 13, 1999
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You're not going to believe this.
Put the old sensor back in to plug up the hole in the exhaust. I plugged the connector back in so it wouldn't fall on the headers.
Turned ignition on, turned on controller switch (which I added to relay) & the damn thing is working!!! The LED is flashing in the right sequence & goes solid in the normal time frame.
The only thing I did was clean the carbon off the old sensor with Brake Kleen.

It worked 2 times in a row. Reconnected his serial port to check calibration, reset & it rebooted normally.
This could only happen to a controls engineer (LOL). I have no explanation.

Since I have TS configured for NB & never tested it, will give it a try tomorrow or Sunday. It looks like that cold front won't be moving through until then.
 
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Noobz347

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You're not going to believe this.
Put the old sensor back in to plug up the hole in the exhaust. I plugged the connector back in so it wouldn't fall on the headers.
Turned ignition on, turned on controller switch (which I added to relay) & the damn thing is working!!! The LED is flashing in the right sequence & goes solid in the normal time frame.
The only thing I did was clean the carbon off the old sensor with Brake Kleen.

It worked 2 times in a row. Reconnected his serial port to check calibration, reset & it rebooted normally.
This could only happen to a controls engineer (LOL). I have no explanation.

Since I have TS configured for NB & never tested it, will give it a try tomorrow or Sunday. It looks like that cold front won't be moving through until then.
There may be a wiring issue in the LC-2 or harness.
 

Blown88GT

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There may be a wiring issue in the LC-2 or harness.
That would seem logical, but all connections appeared clean & tight.
There are 2 interconnections: (#1) sensor pigtail to sensor cable (inside engine compartment), (#2) controller to sensor cable (inside cabin). Put dielectric grease on connectors at #1 & #2.
Maybe the many disconnects & connects at #1, wiped the contacts clean. That's about the only thing it could have been.

This indicates that the Spartan 2 is a superior design, at least when it comes to connectors, since it only has 1 pair instead of 2.

This is a pic of the controller mounted next to the MS.
IMG_1951.JPG
 

Noobz347

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Once you get it up and running well, it might be worth going through and 'shakin' rattlin' and rollin' the wire harness.

I envision a time where you're on the road and it decides to act the ass. That's usually when they crop up etc...
 

Blown88GT

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It hadn't moved from the garage when it went out. It's easy to switch to the NB with the switch on the front of the MS & loading the NB TS configuration.
I usually run with the laptop connected because it gives real-time info not available elsewhere. It's a 6 year old ultrabook, quickly becoming my favorite computer; only had it a week. BTW, it's a 12.5" screen, weighs 3.5 lbs. Screen can be rotated towards driver.
s-l1600-1.jpg

IMG_1714.JPG
 
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