Off idle studder

That makes sense since I didn't get either of those codes... not knowing any better its odd to me that the studder was there at 1.06 but went away at .99? I guess it could be the 10pims that I pressed together again? Thanks for that info though. But I'm going to have to put all this resistance and voltage stuff on hold until I deal with my extremely tight ball joints. Anyone have thoughts on doing joints on car vs replace whole control arm? Unfortunately I'll be laying on the garage floor either way I go...
 
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Pull the control arms and do the bushings as well. If the ball joints have issues then the bushings probably need to be replaced as well. I rent the tool and do them myself but you can get the whole control arm. If you build them yourself then go Moog on the bushings and the ball joints and it will run about $120 shipped. The complete control arms are around $230 shipped for both. So it depends on how tight your funds are and/or if you have the ability to rebuild the original ones.
 
Just an update. I found Mt hvac selector had multiple broken vacuum ports on it so I disconnected the source and capped it. Car is running really well and I'm only getting a CEL at WOT last couple days. Haven't xhecked codes since. Will get back to codes after I fix these led bulbs.
 
Give me the hvac selector part number off the back, I have a couple lay'n around I'm pretty sure.
I don't see a part number. But my eyes are old and/or I may not be looking in the right place?
Screenshot_20231003_172954_Gallery.jpg
 
Give me the hvac selector part number off the back, I have a couple lay'n around I'm pretty sure.
I don't see a part number. But my eyes are old and/or I may not be looking in the right place?
I don't see a part number. But my eyes are old and/or I may not be looking in the right place?
Screenshot_20231003_172954_Gallery.jpg
Ok. It's on the front
 

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