Progress Thread Pete is checking out these valve covers
- Thread starter Potomus Pete
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Steel1
Mustang Master
That compressor is not going to cut it.
You need to look at the scfm rating of the compressor and then compare to what your spray gun will use @ given psi.
Proper equipment is extremely important when trying to produce a decent paint job.
I've sprayed hoods , fenders, bumper with my 15gallon, 150 psi ,4.5 scfm @40 compressor but wouldn't attempt to do
multiple panels with it.
I'm on a similar journey so what I say isn't from experience but from research. I'd look up LVLP paint guns, that combined with the right setup, regulator, ect I think you can get it done.
Is it optimal? Probably not. Are you painting a Ferrari? It's the Indian more than its the arrow here. I've seen some great results with less. Go for it bro, live and learn, repeat.
This got decent reviews and is under $100
SPRAYIT SP-33000K LVLP Gravity Feed Spray Gun Kit
saw your post and thought i would post - Hope you still have the car. I have the same project on rebuilding a 1991 Convertible. I have run into a lot of parts missing and wires cut. And have replaced a lot of parts.
I like the build. How hard was it to install the top?
The new top comes marked for center, and critical parts line up. The car also has factory marks that line up with the top. I got a cd movie from LMR for $20 bucks. and watched it a couple times. I mailed it to a kid on here so he could do his. You need to get the dvd from LMR. All in all it is fairly easy. The best part is I got a top with glass for $250.00. Not bad for the value of the car. You really cant screw it up, and it's all about the window piece. Get that right and home free. You need a stapler, and a couple other small things. ....Then you just sand the hell out of your car, and bring it for a cheap paint job.
Package deal from American Muscle..17 in. the wider ones I believe 7 in. wide They fit perfect , and they are wide
So grateful to have this car . As I am racing around the city of Sarasota like it's a road coarse in my 90 LX. How will a World Class T-5 Transmission last with perfect shifting almost all the time. 120,000 miles on it. Right now shifting is smooth, and easy. Previous original owner babied it . Changed the trans. oil every year with correct fluid. Will these transmissions just keep going.
When you first start and shift into reverse before moving, is is picky or require a double clutch?
I put my trans in with new clutch assembly 50+k miles ago, everything is fine.
You should get 100k+ out of it with no problems.
You should get 100k+ out of it with no problems.
Well, they say they are tough. As a kid I ripped up transmissions on every care I owned. These days I don't want to pay for a rebuild. For now I'm having a great time with this car. Hope to have fun for a while as long as it can take it. I got to say again. My new air conditioning from Classic Air is working so good I almost need a jacket in ninety degree Florida. Best part is my Fox is getting lots of respect around town. Enjoy your cars, because they don't make them like this any more.
Seeing a back to the future meme got me thinking, a 1991 Mustang is as old as a shoebox Chevy was when I started to drive, and my first car in restoration is 60 years old. No wonder we get looks and responses driving them. Driving it regularly like a new car is comparatively bold.
pats91
15 Year Member
Pete,
What is the name of refrigerant you used, and where did you get it?
I am getting ready to get the AC on my car working again very soon as well.
Don't have e mail lately so I can;t do a picture. It's on E Bay called FROSTYCOOL 12a . The stuff can't be beat. NO vacuum,and has no problems with moisture. Read up on it. My car did not respond to 134 at all, as in nothing coming out of my vents
Glad you are keeping your cool.
I do not understand why if you did the prep and switched the oil that r134a did not work. I have no idea who did the switch over on my 91, nor the quality of conversion work, but it cools at least as well as the R-12 dealer air did on my 79. Ad it is a rescued race car, I doubt the PO put much into the AC.
pats91
15 Year Member
Thanks for the information Pete. I was looking at that product online, glad to hear some real world experience with it.
I am still waffling between Frosty Cool and r134 though. My AC system is going to be all new with the exception of the evaporator (which is going to be flushed) and the compressor, which I will be rebuilding shortly. I have access to a vacuum pump at work, so I am going to use that prior to charging to check for leaks.
I am still waffling between Frosty Cool and r134 though. My AC system is going to be all new with the exception of the evaporator (which is going to be flushed) and the compressor, which I will be rebuilding shortly. I have access to a vacuum pump at work, so I am going to use that prior to charging to check for leaks.
My oil pressure has been reading really low lately. The previous owner/origional owner changed the oil every three thousand miles at the dealer since buying the car many years ago. I change the oil every three months, and have never seen any metal in the oil. Well my pressure has been low over the last couple months. I took off the bell sensor, and sprayed carb cleaner in the tiny hole. Then sprayed it in the stem it goes into. Suddenly my pressure reads above half way. Thats a load off my mind. I knew it should be higher, and not in blown zone......Just sayin in case your in the same position.
Steel1
Mustang Master
I'm sure you know how inaccurate the stock gauge can be , you could temporarily hook up a cheap mechanical gauge
just for peace of mind to see where you're at.
Personally I would run a good set of aftermarket oil pressure and coolant temp gauges for these cars.
just for peace of mind to see where you're at.
Personally I would run a good set of aftermarket oil pressure and coolant temp gauges for these cars.
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