Rear upper and lower control arm bushing

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by MileHighDart, Apr 1, 2012.

  1. Are the upper and lower rear control arm bushings replacable ? Or do you have to buy new control arms.

    I seem to have quite a bit of slop in the bushings. I crawled under the back of the car with a flahlight while my wife rocked the back of the car side to side. I could see slop in the bushings and hear it clunking.

    I've seen what looks like a good deal on tubular rear control arms, $169 for a set of all 4, but they have poly bushings and I've heard that you shouldn't use the poly bushings there cause it will cause binding.

    Whats the best way to go ?
  2. Buy a good brand of control arm, the bushings are replaceable, but it's not worth it.. Motorsport uppers have rubber bushings, then maybe some MM or steeda lowers. Yes you will pay more, but you will get more.
  3. If it was easy everybody would do it. I don't do my own work because it's easy, I do it because it's gratifying. That said...

    The Ford Motorsport upper control arm M-5500-A is just a regular control arm with SN-95 bushings in it. This is the same bushing used in the Cobra. Even if you do decide to merely replace the arms you still have the bushings in the rear end to contend with. They must be removed (the hard part) and replaced. While there are no easy ways to remove the bushings there is an easy way to install the new ones. Maximum Motorsports makes a bushing installer that makes the job a whole lot easier.

    I used it to install my new bushings.

    Also be aware that if you do decide to go with a hard bushing like a poly or aluminum bushing, they make the rear end of the car a whole lot noisier. You will hear noises that may make you nervous. I have what sounds like a clunk but I've had mine to a regular auto shop and to a high performance shop. Both shops confirm that everything is as tight as it can get.

    I used a double adjustable upper control arm with the SN-95 bushings in the rear end housing. For my lowers I used Steeda aluminum control arms.
  4. I just replaced my upper and lower control arms as well (UPR chrome moly), didn't bother replacing just the bushings as it seemed more worth it to get the whole package at one. I used the SN-95 bushings in the rear end as well.

    @ Maryland Stand - You mention using a hard bushing will cause noises that may make you nervous. Since I installed my rear arms I can hear a more definitive growling coming from the rear of the car. Doesn't sound like a gear whine (not that high pitched), but almost like road noise from worn tires. Tires are brand new, so I was thinking maybe it's axle bearings? Is there a chance it's just the noise transmitted from these firmer bushings?
  5. You didn't tighten everything up with the wheels hanging did you?
  6. If the seal is not leaking then you probably don't have a problem with the bearings. It may be something as simple as the brake shoe rubbing on the drums. Properly adjusted brake shoes should just barely scuff the drums.
  7. The upper control arm only contains one bushing. It's the one that mounts to the body.

    The axle contains the other bushing. Ford racing has a kit for under $50 with two new bushings, c clips and friction mod.

    Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk
  8. Nope. I put a load on the rear end and then tightened everything up. Should I raise it back up, loosen all control arm bolts, then lower it to the ground (wheels on) and tighten everything? I have heard this is more of an issue with rubber bushings as opposed to the poly bushings.

    I have heard this and I have no seal leakage, but the rear brakes do need to be changed (drums and shoes). Maybe I'll start with changing those out and see what happens.
  9. The bushings are replaceable. I have only replace Fox bushings with poly ones, but they wear out as quick if not quicker than rubber.

    However, I did all 8 bushings on a Chevelle ten bolt, which is an identical setup. Had to make a country boy tool to support the arms while pressing the new bushings in. Used a 2 in pipe nipple, cut it to fit between the sides of the arm, and split it to fit around the bushing shell. Hose clamped it together, pressed the new bushings in with a press. The ones in the housing weren't too bad, but I did them under the car. Used some big bolts and washers and sockets to pull them in.

    All in all, well worth it.

    I am doing the housing bushings on my spare 8.8s soon, hope to trim the sixty foots a bit more.