Can I supercharge with NO dyno tune??

[IMPORTSMOKER]

I have all the parts for my setup which is :

Vortech s/c trim (5-6psi)
30lb injectors
73mm c&l mass air
msd 6btm
255 lph fuel pump
adj. fuel. press. reg.
boost, fuel press, air/fuel gauges
full exhaust

question is...I have until the 31st of July to have my car race ready for the UTI drags for my school (rancho..) I am almost tapped on cash and can't afford a burned tune in time...what can I do myself or take to a dyno shop and get a few pulls for cheap to get this thing running safe and fast....also...im halfway through the install...thanks in advance (I MUST have my car there and running well....hundreds of ricers to shut up!!!)

 

[IMPORTSMOKER]

also....will I need to use my fmu for this setup?? if so what recalibration??

 

[IMPORTSMOKER]

ttt

 

[Ranchero5.0]

Personally I would call Vortech's service line and ask what size disc you should run in the FMU for 30lb injectors and go that route. Without the heads, etc. to make use of it's potential, the blower won't make huge amounts of power. You could probally run 19# injectors and be fine with a different calibration tube from C+L and use the provided FMU disc. Just two routes to go the same place.

Don't run the stock FMU disc and the 30's though because it'll run pig rich and not go anywhere. You'll need a few evenings and some open road to do third gear pulls with the blower to determine the best base fuel pressure and timing. I run 45psi base fuel and 14 degree base timing. I am using a timing retard on the crane setup though. I didn't need it until I put the AFR heads on.

Jamie

 

[dderek]

if youre gunna spend $3-4k on supercharging. take the $60 to at least get some pulls on a dyno. to check your air/fuel ratio
so you dont fry that motor running lean.
plus.. theres alot of power to be picked up in dyno tuning after supercharging.. could make a big difference..

 

[dude5l]

This is just my opinion so take it for what its worth. With the 30# injectors and low boost you don't need the FMU. I run 10#s of boost with 30's and don't run the FMU. They are a poor substitute for a decent tune. Run your fuel pressure a little higher to start and read your plugs to get it where its safe. You don't need a dyno tune with that low of boost, but it would still be a good idea to get the most out of your combo.

 

[IMPORTSMOKER]

so i would be safe running the 30 lbers and no fmu....what should i set the boost retard at?? i was thinking 1 degree per pound with a base timing of 12 degrees...

 

[shttygtstang]

from my under standing your not suppose to run a fmu if you have a fuel regulater,maf set up for a higher injector,and of course a higher than stock injector what would you need them for if its all set up for that...go get the dyno tune its worth it im getin ready to do my sc and i plan to bring it to the dyno its just worth it you will find out so much and gain alot to find the money belive me

 

[IMPORTSMOKER]

after dissasembly of my intake....i am now in question rather to just f*** off the UTI drags and get a Typoon intake..throttle body....decent tune...and feel real happy..or slap this madness back together and boost my way to top of the school car (minus the guy with the cold air intaked civic....)

 

[shttygtstang]

bow it up im trying to look at my post of nhra rules see wut im putting in monday

 

[Fostang]

30 lb injectors with 6-8 lb of boost is fine.

Set the fuel pressure from 40-45 psi.

pull the spout out and set the timing at no more than 25 leave the spout out with the timing locked in at your timing setting.

Don't boost till you have 91 or better octane fuel that means no reviving past 3K.

Spark plugs you may keep your 25 but 24 just to be safe that means one stage colder copper autolites NO platinums. Gapped at .032.

Since you need to close your gap I'd recomend an msd box to increase the spark off idle.

Screw the btm unless you know it is working correctly and have a way of testing but you don't need it at this boost level and with locking in your timing.

get the 30 lb. calibration tube for that maf if you don't already have it.

Throw that fmu away.

Have fun boosting that shall be all.

Soon you'll want to get a pulley and power pipe upgrade to get that vortech to boost you to 10 psi which is the absolute max of efficiency for that head unit.

 

[IMPORTSMOKER]

thanks...for the input, im gonna throw a typhoon intake on there now so the uti drags will have to wait....oh well

 

[Tomato]

No FMU.
45 psi to be safe.
14 degrees inital timing
1 on the boost retard.

This is a safe tune, but I would put a wide band on it just to make sure AF is in the low 12:1 range.

 

[Fostang]

No FMU.
45 psi to be safe.
14 degrees inital timing
1 on the boost retard.

This is a safe tune, but I would put a wide band on it just to make sure AF is in the low 12:1 range.

14 degrees initial timing

The computer ads about 16 degrees of timing plus or minus a few depending on the weather.

Depending on the BTM is not recomended they are known to go bad or not pull timing accuratly.

If for some reason the btm doesn't pull timing under boost and it gets to 30 degrees with 91 octane it can get bad.

Just lock the timing in till you can get a dyno tune.

If you really want to keep the spout in set your initial timing at 10.

 

[Bone Racing]

yes u can supercharge without a dyno tune
and unless you are getting someone to tune it who knows what they are doing...
no it is not recommended

 

[88stangmangt]

you would need a drive shaft loop to run on the strip anyway. and if you run faster than 13's even more stuff not totally sure what but if it was me i would go kick @ss at the track hell with the intake man just the talk around the school would be worth it.