Hello Stang Bros and Hoes,
I've been going through forums on this for weeks and haven't found solution or really anything that lines up specifically with my issue. I do mobile mechanic work for a living specifically 79-04 Stangs so my pride is taking a hit even raising my hand as I pride myself on being self taught with no formal mechanical education. Let's get to it
So...98 GT has 295k miles on body. I've owned 3 years and can account for 100k brutal miles by my foot. She's been a good car and I'm not one to let go (I have a 90k mile 2001 SVT in my garage I'm assembling 305 ci Manley stroker that remains "queen of the garage" while i run the streets in the whore lol) I was driving on the non PI for several months with headgasket leaking from exhaust into coolant and finally decided to make the jump. I'm very meticulous in all swaps which is primarily what people call me for in fact the PI swap is my second most common behind the 4v. Mods as follows
2002 PI Unknown Miles
T45
Aluminum Driveshaft
K&N Cold Air
SVE TB
New Masterpro Intake Manilfold
EGR deleted along with Purge Valve
Bassani X Pipe
A/C Delete
Jet Performance Chip (I've tried removing same issue)
MSD ign coils (Still running 98 PCM so no coil on plug)
4.10 Welded
Tubular Control Arms
SVE Bump Steer
MM Camber plates
UPR Coilover kit
So motor goes in, initially i reused intake gaskets shame I know, money was tight. I regasketed everything else per the usual just figured if i was short on dough leave something up top. I did end up swapping out the manifold gaskets. Worth noting I'm running Master Pro replacement although I do have an old Ford one I can throw on. No Dorman for me. Now no coolant leaking after that. I use torque pro for live data n codes but left my damn obd plug in customer car. I wasn't throwing codes outside of the usual transmission shift solenoid wondering where the hell the auto trans components went lol. Here's the kicker, I bought a harbor freight fuel pressure gauge the other day as my other one broke. Plug it up, prime motor, no reading at gauge. Start motor, no reading at gauge. I previously hard wired FP which had no change to issue, I can hear fuel going through the rail, if i remove the hose from schrader adapter that FP gauge came with I can depress the valve and fuel comes shooting out. Just my luckl I also bypassed the resistor for fuel pump next to CCRM., I swapped CCRM with another i had laying around, no change in sympthoms. Pulled and cleaned injectors/ hooked them up to test meter which may not be a flow match but they all turn on and didn't show any sign of leaks. New grounds from battery to block, from block to frame. I used the 4 gauge battery cables from parts store. New spark plugs and wires are generic but new from autozone.
Spark i used inline spark testers and seems to be sparking fine. I want to say my fuel trims ST and LT were high on both banks. Bank 1 02 showing voltage in normal range, bank 2 upstream is 0 V so I am going to investigate that. What else? Umm...TPS is set at .98, IAC and Coolant Temp sensors both show continuity so does IAC. MAF and barometer are within spec.
I will say when i left swap overnight and it was just getting to be winter here in California probably 40 degrees at it's coldest, after first running car I had milky vavle covers but compression was initially fine so I drained oil twice and it's pretty much gone away strangely enough no milk in oil pan im assuming because condensation was the reason for the mix? and i barely ran the motor.
Oh
I'm forgetting the really important part initially I could keep it running although not happily by working the throttle. Even drove it a short distance. So I would press the gas and it wouldn't respond. Like i wasn't pushing it at all allllllmost bog out and stall and then vrrrrrooom RPMS catch, then it woiuld fall off, maybe five or six seconds stumbling then surge again. I can't recall vacuum on obd and with it not wanting to stay running now getting a read myself will follow up when i get new gauge. I think that's everything sorry i know it's a cluster 
...um alternator is actually off a 4v. Was working fine before I just had to rev car if it was cold to excite it into charge mode. Neighbors love me lol
I'll update anything I remember and when I get those fuel pressure tests done. Oh i did replace fuel filter btw it was time. I'm not a fan of "throwing parts" nor do i allow clients to do so. Any help is appreciated. Don't be an ass if I didn't post this right thankks
I've been going through forums on this for weeks and haven't found solution or really anything that lines up specifically with my issue. I do mobile mechanic work for a living specifically 79-04 Stangs so my pride is taking a hit even raising my hand as I pride myself on being self taught with no formal mechanical education. Let's get to it
So...98 GT has 295k miles on body. I've owned 3 years and can account for 100k brutal miles by my foot. She's been a good car and I'm not one to let go (I have a 90k mile 2001 SVT in my garage I'm assembling 305 ci Manley stroker that remains "queen of the garage" while i run the streets in the whore lol) I was driving on the non PI for several months with headgasket leaking from exhaust into coolant and finally decided to make the jump. I'm very meticulous in all swaps which is primarily what people call me for in fact the PI swap is my second most common behind the 4v. Mods as follows
2002 PI Unknown Miles
T45
Aluminum Driveshaft
K&N Cold Air
SVE TB
New Masterpro Intake Manilfold
EGR deleted along with Purge Valve
Bassani X Pipe
A/C Delete
Jet Performance Chip (I've tried removing same issue)
MSD ign coils (Still running 98 PCM so no coil on plug)
4.10 Welded
Tubular Control Arms
SVE Bump Steer
MM Camber plates
UPR Coilover kit
So motor goes in, initially i reused intake gaskets shame I know, money was tight. I regasketed everything else per the usual just figured if i was short on dough leave something up top. I did end up swapping out the manifold gaskets. Worth noting I'm running Master Pro replacement although I do have an old Ford one I can throw on. No Dorman for me. Now no coolant leaking after that. I use torque pro for live data n codes but left my damn obd plug in customer car. I wasn't throwing codes outside of the usual transmission shift solenoid wondering where the hell the auto trans components went lol. Here's the kicker, I bought a harbor freight fuel pressure gauge the other day as my other one broke. Plug it up, prime motor, no reading at gauge. Start motor, no reading at gauge. I previously hard wired FP which had no change to issue, I can hear fuel going through the rail, if i remove the hose from schrader adapter that FP gauge came with I can depress the valve and fuel comes shooting out. Just my luckl I also bypassed the resistor for fuel pump next to CCRM., I swapped CCRM with another i had laying around, no change in sympthoms. Pulled and cleaned injectors/ hooked them up to test meter which may not be a flow match but they all turn on and didn't show any sign of leaks. New grounds from battery to block, from block to frame. I used the 4 gauge battery cables from parts store. New spark plugs and wires are generic but new from autozone.
Spark i used inline spark testers and seems to be sparking fine. I want to say my fuel trims ST and LT were high on both banks. Bank 1 02 showing voltage in normal range, bank 2 upstream is 0 V so I am going to investigate that. What else? Umm...TPS is set at .98, IAC and Coolant Temp sensors both show continuity so does IAC. MAF and barometer are within spec.
I will say when i left swap overnight and it was just getting to be winter here in California probably 40 degrees at it's coldest, after first running car I had milky vavle covers but compression was initially fine so I drained oil twice and it's pretty much gone away strangely enough no milk in oil pan im assuming because condensation was the reason for the mix? and i barely ran the motor.
Oh
I'm forgetting the really important part initially I could keep it running although not happily by working the throttle. Even drove it a short distance. So I would press the gas and it wouldn't respond. Like i wasn't pushing it at all allllllmost bog out and stall and then vrrrrrooom RPMS catch, then it woiuld fall off, maybe five or six seconds stumbling then surge again. I can't recall vacuum on obd and with it not wanting to stay running now getting a read myself will follow up when i get new gauge. I think that's everything sorry i know it's a cluster ...um alternator is actually off a 4v. Was working fine before I just had to rev car if it was cold to excite it into charge mode. Neighbors love me lolI'll update anything I remember and when I get those fuel pressure tests done. Oh i did replace fuel filter btw it was time. I'm not a fan of "throwing parts" nor do i allow clients to do so. Any help is appreciated. Don't be an ass if I didn't post this right thankks
