Made myself some MIL eliminators

[sporadic]

For $4.
Well after trying some MILs I bought from a guy used that didn't work, I decided to make my own.
I followed the diagram posted on CougarDB.com
It was VERY easy.

The grey wire gets a 1 Mega Ohm Resitor installed in line, and a 1 micro farad Capcitor spans the black wire and the grey wire (between the resistor and wiring harness).
I soldered the wires and then coated the bare wires in epoxy.

Parts list from Radio Shack:
#2721434 - 1 micro farad capacitor (1 per pack)
#27211356 - 1 mego Ohm resistor (5 per pack) 1/2 or 1/4 watt

Here is the schematic for the circuit from CougarDB.com (not sure if it's Copyrighted, so I'd rather link this)

Pic 1: Rear 02 sensors with the cover pulled back.
Pic 2: Closeup after expoxy
Pic 3: Completed (can you see the MILs? )

 

[sporadic]

Pic 3:

 

[sporadic]

For those who don't know what MIL Eliminators are: when you install an offroad mid-pipe with no cats, the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) comes on the dash.
With that light on you can't actually tell if anything else is wrong with the vehicle, so you want to make sure it's not on just because you don't have any cats.
MIL eliminators make the computer think you have cats, and hence no more "Service Engine Soon" light.

 

[Back2Mustangs]

Don't you feel smarter!

Yep, easy stuff...when you do something like that yourself you see how much money companies make on people who don't know any better or are just too lazy to do it themselves. Just like the skip-shift eliminator for GM's CAGS... its one 2.2K Ohm resistor...when I did it I bought a pack of 5 for less than $1.00. I'll be saving myself $100 as well when my h-pipe goes in.

 

[stang976]

brilliant! i am gonna try this myself. nice post

 

[highvolts]

And... Do they work?

 

[sporadic]

And... Do they work?

Ha, I thought that was a given or else I wouldn't have posted.
Yes, they're working perfectly for now.
If they stop working I'll post asap to this thread.

 

[SeanD1111]

I did the same thing about a year ago. I have never had a problem and I always try to pass this info on to others who are looking for some. Afterall I hate it that these companies make so much money off something so simple and cheap to assemble. Great info that should be passed on!

 

[decoy562]

Sweet, I will have to try that myself. How do you cover them up like the ones you can buy from places like Steeda?

 

[sporadic]

How do you cover them up like the ones you can buy from places like Steeda?

I'm not sure what you mean.
Cover up as in hide, or as in protect?

 

[decoy562]

I'm not sure what you mean.
Cover up as in hide, or as in protect?

As in protect. The ones Steeda sells look like they are wrapped in electrical tape and have plastic covers on the ends.

 

[sporadic]

I suppose it's a matter of whatever makes you feel more comfortable.
I'm happy with mine and don't think they need more protection, but since this is a do-it-yourselfer you can wrap it up however you feel necessary.
The Steeda/Brother's etc are most likely the exact same circuit, but they are molded into plastic and then wrapped in shrink tubing. They're pretty tough.

 

[tomustang]

Sweet, I will have to try that myself. How do you cover them up like the ones you can buy from places like Steeda?

you can use heat wrap from end to end for wiring. get a small weatherproof electrical box and cut a hole out the ends.

 

[BVille99GT]

Thanks for the insight I was looking for this mod just today, I don't like my "Check Engine Soon" light to be on.

 

[highvolts]

Ha, I thought that was a given or else I wouldn't have posted.
Yes, they're working perfectly for now.
If they stop working I'll post asap to this thread.

Well the reason I ask.. is because a while back some other goober posted the same thing and his stopped working in 2 or 3 days..

 

[SeanD1111]

As in protect. The ones Steeda sells look like they are wrapped in electrical tape and have plastic covers on the ends.

When I built mine I used quick connects on the ends so that I could remove the mils and reconnect the the wires. I also used shrink tube (heat tube) to protect the mil from the enviroment. Once I installed them I also wrapped the etire thing with electrical tape 3 times.

I have removed mine one time to re-install the factory H-pipe for inspection, and the quick connects made it real easy to remover the mils and have working O2's again.

 

[Green4.6GT]

whoo

thanks boys, i've been avoiding buying mills cuz 50 bucks is rediculous to make a light turn off

-Ryan

 

[sporadic]

Well the reason I ask.. is because a while back some other goober posted the same thing and his stopped working in 2 or 3 days..

Just call me goober.

Check engine light came on on the way to work this morning!
Boy highvolts you called that one.

Anyway, I'll try it again and attempt a slightly better job on the circuit.
This was a quick n dirty trial.
If I get it working again I'll post, and if I don't I'll also post.

 

[highvolts]

Just call me goober.

Check engine light came on on the way to work this morning!
Boy highvolts you called that one.

Anyway, I'll try it again and attempt a slightly better job on the circuit.
This was a quick n dirty trial.
If I get it working again I'll post, and if I don't I'll also post.

get you a ohm meter and measure the resistance of the resistor you put in there.. see if it has changed.. if so.. you may need a more powerful resistor

 

[sporadic]

Thanks highvolts, that's the first thing I'll do!