A buddy of mine is wandering whts the easyest way to get 400RWHP out of a 2.3T?
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351wcoupe
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misslightning
Does this truck make my butt look big?
When you say $300 for the car and $200 for the engine.
Do you mean $300 for the mustang like it sits and $200 for the 351?
Do you mean $300 for the mustang like it sits and $200 for the 351?
mustanggrn said:
yes
If you got some spair parts lying around you could have this put togeather in less than a week and in the body shop the next day, then got yourself one pirty rare car.
Now this gt350 I ran the regestery and it is one of 96 of its kind.
I would love to keep it but money is kinda tight so its got to go.
I could find out the origional exterior color but I think it was silver not sure who ever it was before me painted it an ugly ass green.
The 351W I got from an old farmer so he never beat on the thing I beleave its an 80s model but talked to some guys on mustang world and they said an H/C/I would really wake the beast up.
I drove the truck before I bought it and its a strong running motor.
If there is anything else you want to know just let me know via this topic or pm.
ok I knew i had pics somewhere and I found them.....
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/nightmarecreature_13/album?.dir=/1a76&urlhint=actn,del:s,9:f,0
I will try to get close up shots of the cancer.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/nightmarecreature_13/album?.dir=/1a76&urlhint=actn,del:s,9:f,0
I will try to get close up shots of the cancer.
351wcoupe
New Member
351wcoupe
New Member
I want to know the mileage and every single detail you possibly can give me. Engine pics, rust pics, interior pics. etc.
ok I will get a camera next week and take the pics I got a famaly thing this week.
VIN 1fabp28w5ef131542
I took teh rear interior pices out so I could replace the 1/4 windows and kinda clean the floor up.
motor has 15K on a rebuild and as I said its a strong running motor, dident stutter or stall or nothing when I drove the truck.
Interior needs the pannals and rear seets put back in, dashpad(i have the old one but its falling apart as these dash pads suck).
Needs new seat bolts a couple broke and I cant get them out with the tools I have.
theres a small crack in the passanger taillight lens the rear bumper cover needs replaced its splitting.
theres a small dent in the fender where an old guy hit me the doors needs some body work, theres rust on the driverside rear quarter pannals near the bumpercover.
impact absorbers are good, I have the hood but the scoop is missing, gonna need to bring a set of rims to roll it around on as I need the rims for my other mustang(polycasts suck), I might have a driveshaft.
front swaybar mount needs to be fixed, eletric locks and windows work(well), center collom armrest pad neds to be replaced, no headliner(wasent there when i got it), door seals are good but wouldent help needing replaced, sunroof seal needs replaced, hatch seal looks good, I was told its an 8in rearend(no tag that I can find to prove), everything works, the gas guage is backwards cause of the ****tart who worked on it put the wires backwards.
the previous owner removed the sterio wires and ran there own so they hardwired it to the fusebox radio fuse..
theres a dent in the wheel well lip on the passanger side I beleave.SFC are still good for being factory.
Motor needs a good powerwash has a 2 barrol carb/intake I think its an early 80s model, needs a tuneup(belts plugs wires cap rotor oil change thermostat).
only acc the motor has is a removed A/C unit(dont knwo if it works never tested it forgot to) alt no PS pump(think one off a 2.3 would work if you modifyied it a bit?).
Its got a fuel pump/tank from a 93 GThatch.
brakes work well could use new pads.
Lights work well, previous owner removed the main latch and put hood pins in never had a problem with the hood(safty latch is still there dont worry).
thats about all I can do in words I will try to get picks next week wont be abel to do anythig about the car till then.
Oh i also have factory hpipe a friend gave me if ya want that you can, but the motor the manual flywheel and bellhousing(not sure what the bell housing is for was told it will bolt up to a t5) will go with it.
well all thats left is to wait for the detailed pics I guess....
VIN 1fabp28w5ef131542
I took teh rear interior pices out so I could replace the 1/4 windows and kinda clean the floor up.
motor has 15K on a rebuild and as I said its a strong running motor, dident stutter or stall or nothing when I drove the truck.
Interior needs the pannals and rear seets put back in, dashpad(i have the old one but its falling apart as these dash pads suck).
Needs new seat bolts a couple broke and I cant get them out with the tools I have.
theres a small crack in the passanger taillight lens the rear bumper cover needs replaced its splitting.
theres a small dent in the fender where an old guy hit me the doors needs some body work, theres rust on the driverside rear quarter pannals near the bumpercover.
impact absorbers are good, I have the hood but the scoop is missing, gonna need to bring a set of rims to roll it around on as I need the rims for my other mustang(polycasts suck), I might have a driveshaft.
front swaybar mount needs to be fixed, eletric locks and windows work(well), center collom armrest pad neds to be replaced, no headliner(wasent there when i got it), door seals are good but wouldent help needing replaced, sunroof seal needs replaced, hatch seal looks good, I was told its an 8in rearend(no tag that I can find to prove), everything works, the gas guage is backwards cause of the ****tart who worked on it put the wires backwards.
the previous owner removed the sterio wires and ran there own so they hardwired it to the fusebox radio fuse..
theres a dent in the wheel well lip on the passanger side I beleave.SFC are still good for being factory.
Motor needs a good powerwash has a 2 barrol carb/intake I think its an early 80s model, needs a tuneup(belts plugs wires cap rotor oil change thermostat).
only acc the motor has is a removed A/C unit(dont knwo if it works never tested it forgot to) alt no PS pump(think one off a 2.3 would work if you modifyied it a bit?).
Its got a fuel pump/tank from a 93 GThatch.
brakes work well could use new pads.
Lights work well, previous owner removed the main latch and put hood pins in never had a problem with the hood(safty latch is still there dont worry).
thats about all I can do in words I will try to get picks next week wont be abel to do anythig about the car till then.
Oh i also have factory hpipe a friend gave me if ya want that you can, but the motor the manual flywheel and bellhousing(not sure what the bell housing is for was told it will bolt up to a t5) will go with it.
well all thats left is to wait for the detailed pics I guess....
351wcoupe
New Member
ok, I will try to get some pics of the car ASAP.
Oh I thought you ment motor as in the 351, there is no motor or trans, the motor kinda went kapooeimpeller kinda fraged the motor and caused the crank to seas up and just destroyed the motor...
The harness is still intact
With that said still intrested?
Oh I thought you ment motor as in the 351, there is no motor or trans, the motor kinda went kapooeimpeller kinda fraged the motor and caused the crank to seas up and just destroyed the motor...
The harness is still intact
With that said still intrested?
351wcoupe
New Member
roush69racing
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- Oct 24, 2004
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you can call turbo technitecs in ca, the make hybred t-4s ( or rebuild yours)
aftermarket (svo) head (roller) good front mounted intercooler (not some volvo blowapart, too much boost) 45-48 lbhr injectors, good exhaust ported intake, and a 100 shot. (allways get a boost controler and good gauge)
as for the mpg what gears are you running, if you keep your foot out of the turbo you can get descent mileage> my .02 or .03
aftermarket (svo) head (roller) good front mounted intercooler (not some volvo blowapart, too much boost) 45-48 lbhr injectors, good exhaust ported intake, and a 100 shot. (allways get a boost controler and good gauge)
as for the mpg what gears are you running, if you keep your foot out of the turbo you can get descent mileage> my .02 or .03
351wcoupe
New Member
Thats definately good advice those blades are sharp and it'll take your foot right off.roush69racing said:
have you ever heard of power:weight?Pro-Hawk said:This is for a road racing car which you can't run nitrous.
The easiest way to do it is to just drop in a 347 V8Heck after all the work is added up it would probaly be about the same cost if you price around.
yeah...
if you want 400rwhp for road racing you need to watch out for the torque curves. peak torque is usually higher than hp on svo's (depending on turbo/trim). and peak torque does come in the 3,650-4,200 RPM range (still depends on turbo/trim). for road racing... youd want that peak torque higher in the powerband (4,500-5,000 RPM or so)
