Mods or Save?
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Man if you've only got 7500KM on it, just drive it. Don't worry about blowers or building a motor enjoy the thing and just drive it for a couple years do a few mod's here and there and have fun with it.
As for MAF's and TB's they are proven sources of power. But theres not point in adding air with out matching the fuel too. First mod for power on a pushrod 5.0 should always be the TB it's the most restricted part of the motor. With the 99+'s it's different I agree but you can't make a generalized statement that it will not gain any power or will lose power, cause that's BS. NA motors need air to, and it's actually just as important on an NA motor. They can only suck so much through, where as a blower can ram as much as it wants.
That being said I still vote for susp. like I have been from the start. And SFC's cause anyone who starts modding and racing without them is a dumbass plain and simple.
As for MAF's and TB's they are proven sources of power. But theres not point in adding air with out matching the fuel too. First mod for power on a pushrod 5.0 should always be the TB it's the most restricted part of the motor. With the 99+'s it's different I agree but you can't make a generalized statement that it will not gain any power or will lose power, cause that's BS. NA motors need air to, and it's actually just as important on an NA motor. They can only suck so much through, where as a blower can ram as much as it wants.
That being said I still vote for susp. like I have been from the start. And SFC's cause anyone who starts modding and racing without them is a dumbass plain and simple.
Marcus said:
4.6 is a long way from a 5.0, they are totally diffrent animals, and need a totalyl diffrent approach to modding .. the MAF/TB dont need to be changed until over 300 rwhp.. joe is correct, you usually loose power on a 4.6 when you mess with that stuff until the car is heavily modded,.. remember this thing is only a 281, it dosnt need alot of air, upgrading that stuff on a stockish car is a waste, much the same as putting 4'' exaust on a 5.0 wouldnt get you anywhere, neither will these mods on a 4.6 all the stock stuff flows plenty for the engine, unlike on the 5.0 ford actually put together a well flowing intake system on these cars, if only they had spent some money on the rods too
Green4.6GT said:4.6 is a long way from a 5.0, they are totally diffrent animals, and need a totalyl diffrent approach to modding .. the MAF/TB dont need to be changed until over 300 rwhp.. joe is correct, you usually loose power on a 4.6 when you mess with that stuff until the car is heavily modded,.. remember this thing is only a 281, it dosnt need alot of air, upgrading that stuff on a stockish car is a waste, much the same as putting 4'' exaust on a 5.0 wouldnt get you anywhere, neither will these mods on a 4.6 all the stock stuff flows plenty for the engine, unlike on the 5.0 ford actually put together a well flowing intake system on these cars, if only they had spent some money on the rods too
Read my post. I said that a 99+ or mod motor which ever is different. I also said that you can't make the generalized statement that it will hurt a NA motor. Yes I know that the mod motors have a better intake setup than the 5.0's that was just an example. And again like I said of course getting to much air can hurt a motor but thats why you have to match the fuel side too. And modding a 4.6 vs modding a 5.0 is not totally different, don't forget they are both combustion engines and the same law's and principals apply to both. So just cause they came with a decent TB doesn't mean that you can't put one on a 4.6, it just means you don't need it till you make a some decent power.
Right but it still has been proven over and over that a bigger MAF and TB on the 4.6 is a big waste of money until you are making way more power.
I 75mm TB has been proven to lose 10-12 HP and as much torque. A bigger MAF does diddly. Where the 4.6 does respond is in the exhast side. Which is why you see more long tubes on the market then intakes for the 4.6. The 4.6 really only starts seeing power from intake mods after a power adder is used, wither N2O or a blower.
So yes generally speaking a 4.6 will LOSE power with intake mods. If they sucked as bad as the 5.0 intake then yes they would respnd better.
I 75mm TB has been proven to lose 10-12 HP and as much torque. A bigger MAF does diddly. Where the 4.6 does respond is in the exhast side. Which is why you see more long tubes on the market then intakes for the 4.6. The 4.6 really only starts seeing power from intake mods after a power adder is used, wither N2O or a blower.
So yes generally speaking a 4.6 will LOSE power with intake mods. If they sucked as bad as the 5.0 intake then yes they would respnd better.
http://www.kennebell.net/techinfo/ford-techinfo/46gtTechTips.pdf
According this Kenne Bell PDF long tubes make no difference.
According this Kenne Bell PDF long tubes make no difference.
..
TB\Plenum gain horsepower N\A and with a blower.... and there's no way to say it doesnt ... http://www.modulardepot.com/?show=articlesdet&aid=30
still it is a waste of money i think ... but since im running out of things to do i might have to upgrade
TB\Plenum gain horsepower N\A and with a blower.... and there's no way to say it doesnt ... http://www.modulardepot.com/?show=articlesdet&aid=30
still it is a waste of money i think ... but since im running out of things to do i might have to upgrade
mnbf said:TB\Plenum gain horsepower N\A and with a blower.... and there's no way to say it doesnt ... http://www.modulardepot.com/?show=articlesdet&aid=30
still it is a waste of money i think ... but since im running out of things to do i might have to upgrade
You are seeing a small gain for mostly the plenum.
What we are saying is with a MAF and TB you won't see a gain NA.
yep plenum is where the power is gained, but you can achieve the same gains by porting the stocker (not even really taking out that much material, the casting inside the plenum is ROUGH, just needs the transition smoothed out a little)
WOT said:
you might want to consider the longtubes anyways, install is a HUGE pita either way, so you might as well get every pony out of your 6 + hours work
itsgreat2bme
New Member
I vote navigator engine!!!!! rods pistons and a supercharger = 1400 hp 
*edit* oops, this is Kevin.
*edit* oops, this is Kevin.
Green4.6GT said:you might want to consider the longtubes anyways, install is a HUGE pita either way, so you might as well get every pony out of your 6 + hours work
Yeah but considering I would have to cut a 700 X pipe or buy a new one. I would rather just buy a set of shorties and call it a day.
your telling me lol ...and yes MAF is a waste Tb on other hand isnt... and you cant get the same effect by porting the stocker cause after marketone have a raised top .. i think you can get similar gains if you get a spacer for the stocker ... but not to sureo n that ones ... and still plenum\ tb is not worth the moneyGreen4.6GT said:
Throttle bodies,plenums and long-tubes oh my!! Ryan,your comment about the 281 not needing as much air is kinda the opposite of right(meaning wrong). Air flow is more a function of hp than displacement.If you want proof,look at how most mass air meter's are rated-in hp not by displacement. Now don't get me wrong,a 460 big block from a truck making 250 hp is still going to draw more air than a 260hp 4.6L.The math is pretty straightforward in a 281ci to 302ci comparo. The stock or stockish 302 makes 225 gross hp while the 281 makes 260(that's 35hp more,Ryan). The 4.6l uses larger tb's and mass air meter's from factory because it does flow more air than a stock/ish 5.0L. While there is proof that changing tb's and mass-air's lose power,there's as many saying they add power(never very much but an increase none the less).
Graham,you've got an excellent start no matter which way you go. I'm more of a realist,if you were to start saving for the blower,like most people it'd be hard to stare at that growing pile of money and not spend it somewhere. maybe not on the car but maybe you go out more,or you buy that cool new game,or new electronic toy. I say chose your bolt-on's wisely,the exhaust and gears were a smart choice already. Maybe some underdrives next and a cold-air kit(like the K&N one or the MAC Straight-Shot). Definately subframe connectors and struts and shocks to go with your lowering springs. Only get the things that will make a noticable difference. Sell your old parts and put that money(when your done school) towards the KB,keep the boost reasonable(nothing past 9 psi) and enjoy. Don't spend the bucks on the short block yet,the longer you wait the cheaper it'll be to do. Even now 2 years after I did mine-it's gotten about 25% cheaper. Wait 2 more and who knows? I don't think you'll even have to worry if you keep the pressure under 9psi with a good safe tune-up.
Graham,you've got an excellent start no matter which way you go. I'm more of a realist,if you were to start saving for the blower,like most people it'd be hard to stare at that growing pile of money and not spend it somewhere. maybe not on the car but maybe you go out more,or you buy that cool new game,or new electronic toy. I say chose your bolt-on's wisely,the exhaust and gears were a smart choice already. Maybe some underdrives next and a cold-air kit(like the K&N one or the MAC Straight-Shot). Definately subframe connectors and struts and shocks to go with your lowering springs. Only get the things that will make a noticable difference. Sell your old parts and put that money(when your done school) towards the KB,keep the boost reasonable(nothing past 9 psi) and enjoy. Don't spend the bucks on the short block yet,the longer you wait the cheaper it'll be to do. Even now 2 years after I did mine-it's gotten about 25% cheaper. Wait 2 more and who knows? I don't think you'll even have to worry if you keep the pressure under 9psi with a good safe tune-up.
cobrastang85
New Member
Just my 2 little quirky cents on the matter. Try the save for the 9psi kit, cause if you mod up there, by the time u get there it won't seem that feasable, you'll just want the 20psi kit, or whatever. There are some mods that you should do at the same time. Not being that familiar with your age of mustang in terms of structural integrity, I would still wager that it wouldn't be a bad idea to invest in some chassis stiffening material at those power levels. Although saving up for a big purchase may be difficult, I know that you're pulling in some decent cash at FS (and yes I realize that you are gone for the summer) you should be able to sock away a fair chunk every month. That being said, I found the best way with putting away my limited funds, is waited till I had a few hundred, say like 5, as that's about the most I could save b4 wanting to spend it, and put it in some stable low-risk investment. I would suggest an income trust, like A&W, or anything to do with Oil & Gas, as they're garunteed to make money, and usually will give a better rate of return than something like an ING Direct account. As I would also be waiting till my warranty runs out (which mat be questionable now) to put on the kit, this would leave a few years of compounding to earn u a bit more to pay for the tune that you'll need with that air jammer perched on top of your hood. Well, that's my 2 cents, I don't garuntee the sense part though.
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