BIGTIME milkshake!!

CManT1914

New Member
Feb 5, 2004
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Killeen, Texas
Well I drained my oil and a CRAPload of antifreeze came out. :notnice: I won't have time to change the headgaskets this weekend before I go to the coast, so it will be next weekend before I get around to it. Looks like I might have blown both, for the first few seconds all that came out of the oilpan was coolant. At least maybe I found my problem. :shrug: I'll let you guys know what else I find.
 
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I'm wondering if driving the car while it had air pockets in the coolant system maybe blew it. That's when I noticed the white smoke that once. It was when I was driving it before burping the coolant and when it got hot. :shrug:
 
You went 100 ft/lbs with arp head BOLTS?????? :eek:

Follow the ford torque sequence. You can go 60-70 ft/lbs with arp bolts with their moly lube on the uppers and thread sealent on the lower.

I hope your taking those heads to the machine shop to check the deck surface and have them clean up milled if needed.

I went 35, 55 and 70 on my arp head bolts using arp moly lube on the upeprs and permatex thread sealent on the lowers. Read this spec page please: http://www.hardcore50.com/technical_articles/cleances&torque_specs.htm
 
Grn92LX said:
You went 100 ft/lbs with arp head BOLTS?????? :eek:

Follow the ford torque sequence. You can go 60-70 ft/lbs with arp bolts with their moly lube on the uppers and thread sealent on the lower.

I hope your taking those heads to the machine shop to check the deck surface and have them clean up milled if needed.

I went 35, 55 and 70 on my arp head bolts using arp moly lube on the upeprs and permatex thread sealent on the lowers. Read this spec page please: http://www.hardcore50.com/technical_articles/cleances&torque_specs.htm

Ahh yes..the learning curve as Mike says...it sucks and we all been there... :damnit:

Reefing them like that and air pockets in the cooling system and add some heat... :( Look on the bright side....head gaskets are cheap money and look at the practice your getting... :bang:
My bud just spent the last 8 yrs doing a ground up resto on a 70 SS Chevelle....mildly built 396....he get's no more than 20 miles on it and its running like ass and real noisy in the valvetrain....he tears into and finds a valve loose...Cool...problem solved....NOT...drives to the end of the driveway and its way noisy again....he tears the VC's off it....and notices 1 valve is just barely lifting when cranking it over....Long story short...His Summit cam takes a dump and loses a complete lobe off it and eats the bottom of the lifter to boot..... :( complete teardown shows the crank got scored, oil pump is junk...$500.00 and 2 weeks later she's back....and this guy knows his chit..
Like I say...We all been there....
 
Also might want to check the lower intake gasket, it could leak from one of the coolant ports and down into the pan. My bronco suffers from a crappy intake gasket like this but its only a slow leak (most of it evaps unless it sits, then it gets below the leak and stops).

Did you put rtv around the coolant passages on the gasket (both sides)? I have my ARP head bolts to like 75-80 and 85-90 (cant remember the exact number) on my heads and thats what fel-pro/ARP/Ford said.
 
That sucks man I was hoping to come back from leave and hear that you had everything finished.


I used arp ones and went 70 on the uppers and 60 on the lowers with them soaked in oil.

See if you cant get a hold of mo_dingo I know he had a similar problem when he did his and it turned out to be something other than HG's.
 
MarkFJ40 said:
Make sure you do a real good job of cleaning the anti-freeze out of the engine.
Anit-freeze is great for spun bearings.

Exactly. Once you get the HG's lined out. Put some cheap oil in the car, and let it run for about 30 minutes, and then change it again. I would do it more than once. I knew quite a few people with Thunderbird SC's (notorious HG failure) that would change the HG's, and spin a bearing within a month afterwards.
Brandon
 
you also need to check and make sure your leak is not from the timing cover or lower intake.

Either of those could be your leak. Don't condemn the HG just yet, unless you do a leakdown test and it fails, then you know your HG's are bad.
Scott
 
Grn92LX said:
You went 100 ft/lbs with arp head BOLTS?????? :eek:

Follow the ford torque sequence. You can go 60-70 ft/lbs with arp bolts with their moly lube on the uppers and thread sealent on the lower.

I hope your taking those heads to the machine shop to check the deck surface and have them clean up milled if needed.

I went 35, 55 and 70 on my arp head bolts using arp moly lube on the upeprs and permatex thread sealent on the lowers. Read this spec page please: http://www.hardcore50.com/technical_articles/cleances&torque_specs.htm

Yea I was just going from what the instruction packet said for 1/2" bolts (although I don't remember now what size bolts they even are). I found out later that it was supposed to be 75 or so. :bang:

I pulled my lower intake off last sunday before I went to the coast, and they got thrown away I think while I was gone. :damnit: So I don't know if that was leaking or not.

EDIT: Another thing, last time I checked, I had around 145psi compression on all cylinders.