Mach 1 N/A or F/I

N/A or F/I


  • Total voters
    9

OxMox

turkeysammichesonhisface
Mar 31, 2005
0
0
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Palm Harbor, FL
I wanna start modding the mach, but i'm stuck as far as what direction to go in. I wanna keep it classic... big cam lobes, porting, wide tires, low stance, lots of n/a power. BUT, at the same time I kinda wouldn't mind hearing a procharger under the hood. If I kept it N/A my goal for power would be in the 390 - 430 rwhp range but obviously a little higher for the forced indution route. I was also thinking about modding it for n/a and adding a little shot of nirtous on it... but I decided aginst that in a hurry, so no nitrous what so ever. Anythoughts on what to do or what might be good for the car. My current modds (which are pretty much nothing) are in my sig.
 
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I don't mean to rain on your parade, but exactly how do you think you are going to get 390-430rwhp N/A? Let me rephrase that, how do you think you are going to achieve 390-430rwhp N/A without spending more money than the entire car is worth?? Don't you think if that was even remotely possible, SVT would have kept the Cobra N/A?? At the most, you may be able to achieve around 350rwhp from this motor N/A. And that's going to be after a total teardown, forged rebuild, balance and blueprint of the block, heads, and intake. Some big money is going to be involved in that undertaking.

On the FI side of things, what do you have against nitrous? I've been running a Nitrous Express 100 shot on my car for over a year and a half now, and except for loosening a couple of spark plugs from increased cylinder pressure, no problems whatsoever. It's fairly quick and easy to revert the car back to stock too, compared to removing a supercharger and all it's related components. Don't forget this is a high compression engine, high compression= nitrous friendly, not boost friendly.
 
TR03Mach1 said:
I don't mean to rain on your parade, but exactly how do you think you are going to get 390-430rwhp N/A? Let me rephrase that, how do you think you are going to achieve 390-430rwhp N/A without spending more money than the entire car is worth?? Don't you think if that was even remotely possible, SVT would have kept the Cobra N/A?? At the most, you may be able to achieve around 350rwhp from this motor N/A. And that's going to be after a total teardown, forged rebuild, balance and blueprint of the block, heads, and intake. Some big money is going to be involved in that undertaking.

On the FI side of things, what do you have against nitrous? I've been running a Nitrous Express 100 shot on my car for over a year and a half now, and except for loosening a couple of spark plugs from increased cylinder pressure, no problems whatsoever. It's fairly quick and easy to revert the car back to stock too, compared to removing a supercharger and all it's related components. Don't forget this is a high compression engine, high compression= nitrous friendly, not boost friendly.

There are plenty of ways to gain hp with the mach. I almost have this same debate everyday.

n/a, you will lose the streetability of the car, if you want that type of hp. You would have massive cams and extensive intake, head porting, and head work.

forced induction and nitrous are good alternatives. Problem with nitrous is the stability of it, and after a while, the bottle is a pain in the ass to get refilled. Supercharger or turbo charge is my recommendation. You can get the acheivable power without losing the driving ability. The car will always have the power available. and saying high compression is only for nitrous...actually it can go either way. Detonation is your enemy, not compression. You can detonate just as easily with nitrous, as you can with a superchager, and that's the problem with our motors, and as soon as you have detonation..good by hypertek pistons.

I suggest superchargering. That's the road I'm traveling down. Hopefully it will all be completed by febuary. (not starting it till Jan, after xmas).

just my .02
 
TR03Mach1 said:
I don't mean to rain on your parade, but exactly how do you think you are going to get 390-430rwhp N/A? Let me rephrase that, how do you think you are going to achieve 390-430rwhp N/A without spending more money than the entire car is worth?? Don't you think if that was even remotely possible, SVT would have kept the Cobra N/A?? At the most, you may be able to achieve around 350rwhp from this motor N/A. And that's going to be after a total teardown, forged rebuild, balance and blueprint of the block, heads, and intake. Some big money is going to be involved in that undertaking.

On the FI side of things, what do you have against nitrous? I've been running a Nitrous Express 100 shot on my car for over a year and a half now, and except for loosening a couple of spark plugs from increased cylinder pressure, no problems whatsoever. It's fairly quick and easy to revert the car back to stock too, compared to removing a supercharger and all it's related components. Don't forget this is a high compression engine, high compression= nitrous friendly, not boost friendly.

i don't know, i just don't like nitrous. I think I can get it to 390rwhp n/a with cam & head work plus every bolt on imaginable. I don't see how it'll be that big of a prblem.

Houston94vert said:
There are plenty of ways to gain hp with the mach. I almost have this same debate everyday.

n/a, you will lose the streetability of the car, if you want that type of hp. You would have massive cams and extensive intake, head porting, and head work.
forced induction and nitrous are good alternatives. Problem with nitrous is the stability of it, and after a while, the bottle is a pain in the ass to get refilled. Supercharger or turbo charge is my recommendation. You can get the acheivable power without losing the driving ability. The car will always have the power available. and saying high compression is only for nitrous...actually it can go either way. Detonation is your enemy, not compression. You can detonate just as easily with nitrous, as you can with a superchager, and that's the problem with our motors, and as soon as you have detonation..good by hypertek pistons.
I suggest superchargering. That's the road I'm traveling down. Hopefully it will all be completed by febuary. (not starting it till Jan, after xmas).

yeah, that's about what I was thinking. I wouldn't mind going with a procharger set-up with a cam from crower... but all that might have to wait untill mid next year... if not a little longer. but bolt-ons, cams & some head work i can do by Feb or early March... just depends on how long I wanna wait, and what my final decision is gunna be. what are some modds you have?
 
If I had a Mach, I would not do any hardcore modding, as you hint at. The beauty of its past glory rocks and I would want to keep it as original (or as capable of returning to original) as I could. My 2 cents.
 
4u2nv said:
If I had a Mach, I would not do any hardcore modding, as you hint at. The beauty of its past glory rocks and I would want to keep it as original (or as capable of returning to original) as I could. My 2 cents.
Well my plan is to have the car for quite sometime. I say enjoy the car, mod it and have fun. Then after 10 years or something have fun restoring it back to original.
 
OxMox said:
i don't know, i just don't like nitrous. I think I can get it to 390rwhp n/a with cam & head work plus every bolt on imaginable. I don't see how it'll be that big of a prblem.
Maybe if you load a dyno with 2,500 lbs :p


I don't think you'll get 390rwhp N/A without spending tons of money. Personally, I have not read about a N/A Mach putting down that number. And I've done some research. ;)

If you want power, your most practical goal is supercharging. There are a few kits available so you have some options. While I personally would forge the beast first, you don't really have to. There are many Machers who run S/Cs without forged internals. An SC, good tune, gears, and some suspension should make you fly. :D

Now, you could also wait until you have some more money and do some engine work. Forge it and cam it, and then 'blow' it. But as simple as this may sound, projects like this don't take just money, they also can take plenty of time.

For the meantime, I suggest you do gears and suspension first. Those would be noticeable mods that would only help later if you upgrade the engine. :nice:

For much more info, go here

http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/
 
Ernad said:
Maybe if you load a dyno with 2,500 lbs :p


I don't think you'll get 390rwhp N/A without spending tons of money. Personally, I have not read about a N/A Mach putting down that number. And I've done some research. ;)

If you want power, your most practical goal is supercharging. There are a few kits available so you have some options. While I personally would forge the beast first, you don't really have to. There are many Machers who run S/Cs without forged internals. An SC, good tune, gears, and some suspension should make you fly. :D

Now, you could also wait until you have some more money and do some engine work. Forge it and cam it, and then 'blow' it. But as simple as this may sound, projects like this don't take just money, they also can take plenty of time.

For the meantime, I suggest you do gears and suspension first. Those would be noticeable mods that would only help later if you upgrade the engine. :nice:

For much more info, go here

http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/

:love:

I already ordered a few parts. Eibach Pro-kit, Steeda pulleys, Kenny Brown Sub-frames, MM Strut tower & MM caster camber plates. I think i'll end up going with a Procharger kit, cause I think that one I can still keep the shaker functional. Anything else right now as far as parts i'm kinda stuck. I might order some more suspension parts & some 3.73's & a Ected locking diff
 
OxMox said:
:love:

I already ordered a few parts. Eibach Pro-kit, Steeda pulleys, Kenny Brown Sub-frames, MM Strut tower & MM caster camber plates. I think i'll end up going with a Procharger kit, cause I think that one I can still keep the shaker functional. Anything else right now as far as parts i'm kinda stuck. I might order some more suspension parts & some 3.73's & a Ected locking diff
I'd be wary of pulleys. I've read of them messing up something, I think it some pump :scratch:.

Did you order a MM strut tower brace?

Before you spend all the money there, is your Mach payed off? 'Cause if it ain't so, I'd hold on to some stuff mang. :)

BTW, you may not need a better diff unless you plan on dragging the car a lot. And if you do get gears, go lower then 3.73. The Mach comes with 3.55's so there wouldn't be much of a difference.
 
i'm carefull about the pulleys, but i've heard that the steeda ones are the only "direct replacement" ones for our cars and they shouldn't mess anything up. The strut tower brace i ordered was the '99-02 cobra brace from MM, it should fit. If not then worst case i'll return it. The mach's payed off, so that's no prob. and as far as gearing & diff, i don't want 4.10's... 3.73's will be fine for me with a procharger & the ected locking isn't a full time locking diff, it has a switch to change between full locking and not.