stonegod85
New Member
so what about AODE's....can we have aluminum driveshafts or what? i was told that the automatics have a shorter shaft than the manuals and that you have to buy some kind of spacer for it to work properly.
hotmustang331 said:the aluminum only weighs 3 #s more...I mean what a 1/2 HP difference? LOL. Ill just get aluminum when the time cames...im sure ill get a good 4hp then.
02GTdroptop said:Exactly. Aluminum is just automatically more predisposed to breakage under torque than steel, that's all.
Chris00GT said:I've dyno'ed my car to see how much gain for an aluminum drive shaft. The results were 0rwhp gain and a gain of 7rwtq.
stonegod85 said:so what about AODE's....can we have aluminum driveshafts or what? i was told that the automatics have a shorter shaft than the manuals and that you have to buy some kind of spacer for it to work properly.
lgndracer said:You have to look at exactly what you are trying to do. There are two basic ways to make your car "faster". More power, or increasing your power to weight ratio. The lightening of items increases your power to weight ratio. This is why a lighter less powerful car (SRT4 for example) can hang with a much more powerful V8, yet heavier (Mustang GT) car.
I raced late model stock cars for about 12 years. Our philosophy always was "ounces add up to pounds", meaning anywhere you could lighten anything would add up to reducing the overall weight of the car. We would always try to be "underweight" for our rules, so we could go back and add weight where we could get the most transfer or traction. This applies to all forms of performance, whether you are circle track racing, road racing, or drag racing. Why do guys take out their spare when they run the 1/4? Same idea.
Also, the drive shaft is "rotating weight", so it being 3 lbs lighter is a lot, as it takes less to get it moving. If you are going to try and reduce weight the two places that will make the most difference are "rotating weight" (wheels, brake rotors, flywheel, driveshaft, axels, engine internals) and "unsprung weight" (suspention components, brake calipers).
Just my .02
hognutz said:I would do subframes and lower control arms first.
These are essential. Good mods.Money well spent.
Also..back to the drive shaft loop. Anyone that races..get one. And get the type that will accept the aluminum DS when it is upgrade time.
stonegod85 said:well i haven't been able to find aluminum driveshafts that are FOR auto's....only listed ones are for the manuals. this is why i kinda think there may be some sort of "adapter peice" for the shaft to work on an auto. i've tried to search on this several times and i can never get an answer...just thought i'd throw my thought out there.
JohnyD05 said:I don't see how this is possible...
Hp takes into account how fast you can essentially spin the dynomometer drum. So you should be able to spin it faster with a lighter driveshaft.... therefore more HP
As far as torque the ultimate torque your engine should produce should be the same, it might just take longer to get the right RPM to produce that torque.
Is there any way that you had other mods done more than just a driveshaft?
does anyone else follow my logic, or am I crazy?
So i am bored at work...
And after thinking about it, the Torque should also change, but it should not depend on the RPm. You should have the same TQ gain throughout the RPM.