Need help in Vancouver

97cobra281

Founding Member
Aug 3, 2001
251
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0
Puyallup, Wa
Ok, I've searched my problem out thru the forums. But still need help. The car was fine 10 days ago. and now it just turns over and wont start. this has happened one other time and cured itself within minutes and started. but this time it seems that it doesnt want to clear itself. 66k miles on the car. looks like it still has original Motorcraft battery. blenty of cranking juice(as it turns the motor over fine. I'm thinking fuel might be my problem. it tries to light off but wont. I cant check the FP at this time but that is my next step. Fuel pump sounds good when i turn the key on. wierd thing is that the starter sounds different and the motor almost sounds like it has no compression when cranking over. Do these motors just sound that way when they dont start?? Is is possible that is floods itself. If so, how can that be? Also in the past year or so, every 30 starts or so it starts and has a rough idle, it runs rough for about 2-3 mins and clears up. I'm confused!

I've tried: unplugged the battery for 30mins, tried starting the car with the throttle on the floor(to allow air in and no fuel, which it almost started). I need a FP gauge to check that next. I'm suspect to the FPR. I'm in vancouver,wa.

It was running fine last time it was out! HELP ME.
Thanks, Jay
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I dont have anything to read codes with. but it could have stored up some codes. probly mostly codes that indicate bad driving habits such as "rear wheels moving dramatically faster that front wheels" or "Speed limiter has been breeched", or maybe something simple like "emergency flashers used in non-emergency fashion"...gotta have a sence of humor about something right.
 
Didnt these Cobra's have an issue woth washing the cylinders down, causing a hard start/no start? It also explains how it seems like there is no compression. I cannot remember what the "fix" was, but i remember a lady brought (towed) her stang in often with this issue. I think it was a PCM reflash that ended up fixing it, but it wont do any good until the car is running.

I looked on the dealer website, and cant SB or SSM on it, but often these require a phone call in to Hotline to resolve, so it still may be the issue. A call to the dealer (a reputable one!) may lead you to a knoledgable tech with access to the answer.
 
So heres the story. i read up on some of my whoa's with the car. the biggest thing pushed is the basics, air/fuel/spark. dah! so i felt that with all things assumed, air would be constant and also assumed spark was still being delivered and no spark related parts had just gone out. so i went to fuel related troubles. too much is bad and so is not enough. I had a feeling that somehow i was getting too much. i know your thinking "this jay character is out of his freaking fuel injected MIND". i know i know, a flooded fuel injected car, right.

the kicker, i read that to "clear a flooded state" you depress the throttle to the floor and crank the motor. the depressed throttle also turns all the injectors OFF.

So this time i waited an entire day, then the very first try starting the car i did so with the petal on the floor. it started after a few seconds of cranking, spit sputter then cleared out. i drove it around, no prob's. stopped by autozone to have the codes pulled, no codes.

I'm suspect its a fluke in the shutdown or start up that allowed a flooded state.

it runs, and thats what counts, jay.
 
my car is an 88gt with some extra stuff and mine floods every once and a while too. but mine floods really bad, when it finally starts there's a big cloud of fuel smoke out the pipes. im sure some of the 24SB people know this smell. but its the price i pay to have "my car"
 
ok you caught me! when the car is stored for months on end and not started up, it can be difficult to start the car perfect every time. I dont believe my problem is due to any kind of abuse or actual malfunction of any mechanical or electronic parts, more a problem of not enough use. 66k miles in 9 years equates to less than 8k miles a year average. lately the car has done lots of setting in storage. Any how, yes this car is for sale on the basis that i'ld like to get into either a 2003-4 cobra or maybe 2005 GT. Jay
 
97cobra281 said:
I dont believe my problem is due to any kind of abuse or actual malfunction of any mechanical or electronic parts, more a problem of not enough use.
Okay...

The car was fine 10 days ago. and now it just turns over and wont start. this has happened one other time and cured itself within minutes and started.
I'm thinking fuel might be my problem. it tries to light off but wont. I cant check the FP at this time but that is my next step.
wierd thing is that the starter sounds different and the motor almost sounds like it has no compression when cranking over.
Also in the past year or so, every 30 starts or so it starts and has a rough idle, it runs rough for about 2-3 mins and clears up.
I'm suspect to the FPR.

Tip: Erase original post if you plan to contradict it within the same thread.

And you might check the MAF. Clean it, make sure the connection is tight. And while you're under the hood check every other connector. And then put your car up for sale when you have the problem solved. Or at least be honest about the situation before foisting it off on some unsuspecting local StangNet member.

Dave
 
Dear Dave, If you can come and replicate the problem i'ld be glad to take you out for a drink. The car is in "PERFECT" running condition. Pawning the car off is not the intention of the sale. If I was in anyway unsatisfied with this car why would i want another FORD product. I stand behind every word i said. In fact everything i have stated proves that the self-adjusting computer has fixed whatever temporary trouble the car has EVER had.

BTW, your suggestion to get the codes read was taken, and there were no codes stored in the computer. Also the the CEL has never came on in my car. Thanks for your help, i'll take a look at the MAF. Jay
 
you know, I spent a good half hour or so looking up info on the Ford QC Dealer site and after asking around and all, I post what I recall as a tech and I am blown off with a " I dont believe my problem is due to any kind of abuse or actual malfunction of any mechanical or electronic parts" reply. If it doesnt have any issues, what are you complaining about? This was a very common problem on 96-98 4V cars, and was a concern that is repairable. it IS mechanical/electrical. It relates to the injectors, maf, and pcm calibration.

Your welcome. :nonono:
 
Man, this is a tough crowd. I appreciate all the help, from EVERYONE. The car started and runs great. If this particular occurance starts to happen more often I'll look deeper into a permanent fix. Stangnet and its members are awesome.
 
97cobra281 said:
The car is in "PERFECT" running condition.
It is easy to believe otherwise, when in the first post of this thread you complained that it would not start. So you can understand where we might be a bit confused.

If I was in anyway unsatisfied with this car why would i want another FORD product.
That didn't stop me... :lol:

In fact everything i have stated proves that the self-adjusting computer has fixed whatever temporary trouble the car has EVER had.
I would recommend that you do not believe that to be truth. The EEC can adjust fuel trim to compensate for minor -- but normal -- changes in operating conditions. The symptoms you describe -- running rough, failing to start, etc... these are not normal, and not something the computer will learn around. Something is failing, and if you have no codes, it just means you're going to have to work a little harder to find what it is. The EEC is decent at locating problems, not perfect.

The MAF is a pretty good place to start, because a malfunctioing one can definitely cause the exact symptoms you have described.
 
Scooby5.0Doo said:
my car is an 88gt with some extra stuff and mine floods every once and a while too. but mine floods really bad, when it finally starts there's a big cloud of fuel smoke out the pipes. im sure some of the 24SB people know this smell. but its the price i pay to have "my car"

Eric- you certainly contribute to what I call the "stinky high-mileage fox smell." It is quite a show, watching you start that beast up after a long night at Starbucks! When are you putting the rims on? You've had them longer than I have had my tubular front suspension (that is not installed)!
 
Rootus said:
I would recommend that you do not believe that to be truth. The EEC can adjust fuel trim to compensate for minor -- but normal -- changes in operating conditions. The symptoms you describe -- running rough, failing to start, etc... these are not normal, and not something the computer will learn around. Something is failing, and if you have no codes, it just means you're going to have to work a little harder to find what it is. The EEC is decent at locating problems, not perfect.

The MAF is a pretty good place to start, because a malfunctioing one can definitely cause the exact symptoms you have described.

Exactly! Clean that Maf. There is a reason that K&N switched to the little spray bottle to apply new oil... Now that Jeff #2 has enlightened you to the general problem, I would suggest you permanently fix that beast. Random driveability problems are not fun. The next time a technician researches this, it may be on your dime.
 
when the brake coversion goes on then my rims can go on. and i dont know many foxes with out fi or h.c.i that has run strong in to the 13s with out power shifting and with stock sized street tires.