Body Work and POR-15

geostang351

Member
Mar 30, 2005
946
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17
Danb., CT
I have done the cowl on my brothers 66 but the metal now goes from rust in the middle to new metal at the ballons. The welded seam needs to be worked with bondo to form a semi smooth line. I plan on putting POR-15 at this entire area. My question is this: Do I do the bondo first on the raw metal or do the POR first, then the bondo filler?
:flag:
 
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Por15 first. You want the Por15 to do what it's designed to do - Bond to and Stop current rust and prevent future rust. You will need to clean (w/marine clean) and acid etch (w/metal ready) all metal surfaces prior to putting Por15 on anyway. Acid etching stops current rust and gives the Por15 something to bite into on new metal work. Here's a write-up on how I did my window channel: (I highly recommend their fiberglass cloth as it is stiff and easy to cut and work with - unlike the stuff you get at the auto parts store. I also like their Epoxy Putty, which gives you a longer working window, and it's easier to make small quantities, than Bondo)

73channelrepair

73rearwindow

and

The Trunk Tail Panel
 
They make some big claims, but I have no personal experience with it. I don't have time to read their whole site right now, but I might consider testing it in the future. Por15 is quite labor intensive.
 
OK, I spent some time on Rust Bullet's site and it leaves me with one major test discrediting question: Why was the POR-15 test panel, used throughout the comparison tests, topcoated with a NAPA paint rather than POR-15's own Chassis Coat? :bs:

Also, the tests would have better illustrated typical end use had the coatings been applied to rusty metal test samples.
 
I have used the rust bullet and I feel it is equal with POR15. I liked the ability to put it on w/o a topcoat. I used the por15 paste in one area and it was just as 'hard' when cured. I have used the rustbullet through most of my project though it was not very rusted.

I was impressed by how hard it was when cured and put it on as a preventative measure. When I was under the car, it had that red primer on it from the factory and we all know that stuff absorbs water over time. I spent the time to remove all of that and apply rust bullet. I believe it will be time well spent and since my car is not a restore, it doesnt really matter.

You can see pictures on my cardomain site and ask all the questions you want.

Mark
 
I’m sure Rust Bullet is a fine product. I just get annoyed when companies push the envelope of truth. Rust Bullet claims to be a one-step process and states POR-15 is a four-step process. Then they proceed to count degreasing as one of POR-15’s steps, conveniently ignoring their own instructions, which state: “All surfaces must be free of loose rust, moisture, dirt, mildew, oily substances, wax, loose paint, and loose particles.”
 
True, and I am not claiming they are better. The tests prove though that POR15 and Rustbullet are about equal. It would be a tough choice between the two. I really dont think you could go wrong with either.

Problem really is... everyone does it. They publish only the positive points of their product over the competition...
 
platonic solid: would your channel repair be possible with this rust bullet product too? Could regular fiberglass mat be used? and are there other brands of epoxy putty out there? Newbie questions but I am not that familar with these products.

smitzer