I know to get the valvetrain upgrade and such, but is there anything that I should know before I order this, like any problems anyone has run into?
Trickflow Top End kits....Anything I should know before ordering?
- Thread starter Aliate X
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I would suggest the 1" phenolic spacer. It will be easier to get the valve covers off without removing the upper intake and your EGR won't hit your aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. The kit recommends new dowels for the block but doesn't come with them.
Other than those two things the kit is great!
Other than those two things the kit is great!
txstang84
15 Year Member
there is a fella on here right now having problems with his install-says it's not idling, so just make sure before you pull your dizzy out, you run the motor up to TDC, and mark the distributor, and rotor position prior to pulling it out...this may save you some time during the install.
Disconnect the battery before beginning-you'd be surprised...don't ask
don't reuse gaskets-I don't care what you've heard-stock style composite gaskets are NOT reusable...
be patient
get a tube of ultra black rtv-or equivalent
get a new t-stat
if you're swapping to adjustable rockers, be sure to set your lifter preload properly; this website should help you; http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=3
use a torq wrench
take pictures
mark everything you disconnect
replace cruddy components as you find them-mostly hoses
clean as you go!
get a gallon of undiluted antifreeze and a gallon of DISTILLED water-mix them 50/50 and you've got two gallons of premix for half of what it would cost to buy it off the shelf already mixed.
if you do run into a snag, take a break-regain your wits, and then continue.
Now would be a great time to replace O2, and ACT sensors-if you've got the spare greenbacks
just things to consider-I'm sure you've already thought about most if not all of these things-not trying to beat a dead horse, but if any of this helps-cheers!
and good luck!
Disconnect the battery before beginning-you'd be surprised...don't ask
don't reuse gaskets-I don't care what you've heard-stock style composite gaskets are NOT reusable...
be patient
get a tube of ultra black rtv-or equivalent
get a new t-stat
if you're swapping to adjustable rockers, be sure to set your lifter preload properly; this website should help you; http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=3
use a torq wrench
take pictures
mark everything you disconnect
replace cruddy components as you find them-mostly hoses
clean as you go!
get a gallon of undiluted antifreeze and a gallon of DISTILLED water-mix them 50/50 and you've got two gallons of premix for half of what it would cost to buy it off the shelf already mixed.
if you do run into a snag, take a break-regain your wits, and then continue.
Now would be a great time to replace O2, and ACT sensors-if you've got the spare greenbacks
just things to consider-I'm sure you've already thought about most if not all of these things-not trying to beat a dead horse, but if any of this helps-cheers!
and good luck!
txstang84 said:
Thanks a lot man, unfortunitally I did not mark the rotor position and all that before I took it out so Ill have to reset it.
Do you have AIM btw? I have a few questions still and its just easier to ask on there.
My AIM is Aliate X , if you have it.
Hmm, Ill just list some of the questions I have...
-First, is there any complete hose kits I can buy, like I know theres some for the radiator, but what about a kit for all the rubber vaccume lines?
-Im deleting my smog pump AND a/c while doing this, I dont really know how exactly to delete these though besides just taking them off and removing everything, plus using the relocation bracket for the power steering. I know my way around the car, but I just never looked into what it takes to delete the smog pump, I know some vaccume lines have to be plugged.
-Can I just run this on a basic tune once its done, I know how to tune the car, I ran a 125 shot of nitrous on the stock motor before this so I can set the timing and fuel pressure right...Should I not lay into it at all and just keep it at low rpms or is no tune really required?
-Cam break-in? How should I go about this, do I just let it idle for 15 mins?
-Does the kit come with any directions, like that note all the specifc things you must keep in mind like lifter preload?
-How long does it usually take to do the whole swap?, I have the motor already torn down to the shortblock.
-Can the stock ignition be used for now?
-Im going to be using stock injectors/maf until I can get my hands on my vortech, most likely in 2 months, after then it will be tuned. How is that going to work out?
I think thats all for now, Ill just edit anything else in if I can think of it....
Thanks everyone!
-First, is there any complete hose kits I can buy, like I know theres some for the radiator, but what about a kit for all the rubber vaccume lines?
-Im deleting my smog pump AND a/c while doing this, I dont really know how exactly to delete these though besides just taking them off and removing everything, plus using the relocation bracket for the power steering. I know my way around the car, but I just never looked into what it takes to delete the smog pump, I know some vaccume lines have to be plugged.
-Can I just run this on a basic tune once its done, I know how to tune the car, I ran a 125 shot of nitrous on the stock motor before this so I can set the timing and fuel pressure right...Should I not lay into it at all and just keep it at low rpms or is no tune really required?
-Cam break-in? How should I go about this, do I just let it idle for 15 mins?
-Does the kit come with any directions, like that note all the specifc things you must keep in mind like lifter preload?
-How long does it usually take to do the whole swap?, I have the motor already torn down to the shortblock.
-Can the stock ignition be used for now?
-Im going to be using stock injectors/maf until I can get my hands on my vortech, most likely in 2 months, after then it will be tuned. How is that going to work out?
I think thats all for now, Ill just edit anything else in if I can think of it....
Thanks everyone!
You do get some instructions telling you torque values and sequences. Also how to check valve geometry and adjustment. You dont get a water pump gasket with the kit. Definately get new lifters. I had a shop manual as well and I dont think the TF instructions covered degreeing the cam. I am using stock ignition with my setup and it runs great. I am not to sure about those stock injectors though. I would think 24's would be better. I finished mine up and drove it around a little before really laying in to it and made sure everything was good. I believe there is no real break in on a roller cam like this but a could be wrong. I really never ran NA other than just getting new bearings in my supercharger so as far as timing goes I am not sure. I did not play around with it to much and keep it at 10deg. anyway. I keep fuel pressure at Pro-M's recommendation as well. Mine took me 4 days but I had a friend help at the start and after the realization we dont think alike, went back and redid some things.
The stock injector and meter setup may not work out too great. People here and on other forums have tried it, and their cars just didn't want to run right. Used 24's aren't all that expensive, and can be sold for what you pay for them, and a meter can be recalibrated for $100, probably yielding a total of a 100 dollar loss if you do the 24's now.
My friend used 19's on his h/c/i setup with no problems. Even if it doesnt run so great the blower will be going on in a month or two so its not a huge deal. When the blower goes on it will be getting 30's or so.
Sicarius428 said:
Yeah I have a BBK, when you say cap the line, do you mean take the vac line off and plug it while you adjust the FP? Ive always just pulled it off and left it hanging while I adjusted, is that incorrect?
Btw heres my list of stuff to order right now....
TF top end kit
FRPP Water Pump
FRPP Lifters
I know I need a TB, and Im going to use the stock intake for right now because of the upcoming blower.
Anything Im missing? The TF kit is pretty compete!
Edit -
I know you can get valvetrain upgrades and such with the heads, like .600 springs and ****, is that also available with this kit? I called summit and the guy didnt really know what I was talking about, lol.
Yeah. So you don't let unmetered air into the system so I have been told while adjusting. Probably a little more accurate. The Track Heat heads have better valve springs which is definately the way to go. The Track Heat kit comes with a track heat intake. You should also take a look at stewart waterpumps rather than buying a stock one. Ford lifters are just fine though. If you are going boost I suggest getting the O-ring heads.
Kevin
Kevin
Sicarius428 said:
The track heat kit includes the better valvetrain as well as the better intake?
Can I get o-ring twisted wedge heads with the kit? Its annoying b/c usually the summit people dont know wtf Im talking about when I go into specifics, which is understandable b/c they have a lot of products not only ford parts.....
352Ford2
New Member
If you want good tech call Doug Herbert Performance, their tech is far better and their prices are about the same (some cheaper, and they will price match)
1800-444-7373
1800-444-7373
