Need a little help. I am wanting to lower my car about 1"-1 1/2" and I am not sure what suspension kit I should go with. I also would like to improve the preformance of turning corners. Any suggestions?
Suspension kits
- Thread starter AnnaBanana
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
StangPro
New Member
that really depends on your use of the car and budget.
EvM, MM, and Steeda have the best packages for handling overall.
EvM, MM, and Steeda have the best packages for handling overall.
nwapache
New Member
whats your budget....is a really big question.
are you planning on doing any 1/4 mile runs at the track?
Strictly for looking good on the street?
are you planning on doing any 1/4 mile runs at the track?
Strictly for looking good on the street?
well.... whats more important, handeling, or ride height? they dont always go together, no more then an inch for propper geometry (or until you get a full suspension). HR race and bilsteins with CC plates and poly isolators is my suggestion.
Torinalth
Torinalth
AnnaBanana said:
If you're into turns more than straight lines like me, the proper order is:
LCA's
PHB
Springs, struts/shocks (or CO's) and CC plates if needed
T/A
Read up, do your homework, and buy the correct stuff the first time.
IMO, there are only 2 companies worth a damn....Griggs and MM. Griggs for more of a track duty car (bring your wallet) and MM for more affordable stuff (but still excellent quality, design and performance).
I chose MM personally, and don't have any regrets. I'm running:
MM standard LCA's
H&R supersports
MM CC plates
MM PHB
Bilsteins
Totally different car in the turns.
Here is the rules I would go by. If you want an all around car (little bit of drag racing or track days) that is used primarily on the street, Steeda and Kenne Bell are good choices. If you are going more towards 100% road racing, then MM would be my next choice. If you want the ultimate street/road race suspension, then an SLA suspension is the only way to go.
I use Steeda control arms/anti-sway bar in the back with a D&D suspension/Maximum combined front end. The D&D was an early mistake but it's being replaced. However, a coil-over with a K-member is probably the most cost effective best handling suspension change you can make. I would also buy Koni double adjustables with it but if not, the Tokico Illumina's aren't a bad choice. Just plan on replacing them every 30,000 miles. I'm on my third set right now.
If you go with a coil-over, stay away from D&D. The system is universal and doesn't exactly fit the shocks. MM and Kenne Bell has a much better system.
I use Steeda control arms/anti-sway bar in the back with a D&D suspension/Maximum combined front end. The D&D was an early mistake but it's being replaced. However, a coil-over with a K-member is probably the most cost effective best handling suspension change you can make. I would also buy Koni double adjustables with it but if not, the Tokico Illumina's aren't a bad choice. Just plan on replacing them every 30,000 miles. I'm on my third set right now.
If you go with a coil-over, stay away from D&D. The system is universal and doesn't exactly fit the shocks. MM and Kenne Bell has a much better system.
rconaway said:
I will respectfully disagree with you here.
The most cost effective handling solution is a PHB, not a front CO setup. The biggest suspension problem with a Mustang is the rear live axle setup, not the front. Adding a set of good LCA's and a PHB will make more of a difference than a front CO setup will.
Try calling MM and see what they recommend and the steps they suggest you buy the items if you can't plunk down the coin all at once. They'll tell you the same thing.
Also, I think you meant Kenne Brown too (Kenne Bell makes SC's). Last I heard, he had health problems and none of his children cared to step up and run the business. I don't know if that changed or not, I could be wrong. Besides, the only thing worth a damn from them were the SFC's.
san~man said:
Oops, my bad. That's what I get for talking on the phone and typing at the same time. I also didn't know he had health problems. I hope that he gets better.
I agree that control of the back is important. The point I was trying to make with the SLA setup was that IMO an SLA is the only way to get a suspension that can handle street and road track simultaneously. I wasn't implying the back end didn't need to be done at the same time.
..perfectly under lowering conditions and the addition of a thick swaybar in the front combined with super stiff springs, which isn't neededrconaway said:
I like how newb threads get so technical
Similar threads
