Tweecer

NIN

New Member
Dec 4, 2002
452
0
0
moorhead MN
I'm not all that experienced with my Tweecer but I still feel stupid. I work in computers and want to learn to be a programmer some day but this makes me think twice. I got my car to run decently but I have no Idea how. She was running crappy last fall and when I started it up this spring it was running fine. I'm guessing it cleared the Karmf's when the battery died.

Even though she is running decent it still runs a little rich. I've read some of the faq's but I'm still confused. Part of the problem is I don't really have all that much time to play with it. What did you guys do to get efficient at programming this Thing.

How easy is it to use the PMS. If I'm able to operate without this much trouble I'm willing to switch. If it's not that much easier I might as well keep working on it. What is your opinion? I have always respected the opinions on this site. Most of you are a great help.

Thanks,
Tom
 
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I certainly do understand your frustration Tom ;)

I have been at an :scratch: impass :scratch: many times myself when things just didn't go as I had planned :rlaugh:

I see from your post a thing or two you may wanna consider :)

It does take time to learn what you need to get positive results.

On many occasions, I've tried to point out on this forum you do not just use some software to tune the Old Stang ... regardless of the flavor of interface you use to do the tuning.

If it was that easy ... everybody would do it :D
and
there would be no demand for the Pro Tuners ;)

IMHO ... a basic understanding is needed of the following:

1. How the motor is gonna respond to more/less spark and more/less fuel is basically all that is needed for WOT tuning. The drivability thing is way more complex but ... you just learn all that stuff as you go.

2. How the pcm works. NOT everything ... but ... just the basic way it goes about its business. Just ask yourself this Q ... how can I make improvements (self tuning) on the pcm if I don't have an understanding of how it works in the first place.

To my way of thinking ... trying to tune without having a grasp of 1 & 2 would be like some guy trying to fix a computer without knowing anything about how it works.

A few thoughts on the self tuning thing from my viewpoint
and
Hopefully a bit of encouragement for you :)

Grady
 
final5-0 said:
1. How the motor is gonna respond to more/less spark and more/less fuel is basically all that is needed for WOT tuning. The drivability thing is way more complex but ... you just learn all that stuff as you go.

2. How the pcm works. NOT everything ... but ... just the basic way it goes about its business. Just ask yourself this Q ... how can I make improvements (self tuning) on the pcm if I don't have an understanding of how it works in the first place.



Grady


Can you answer them? or a link?
 
final5-0 said:
I don't wanna seem like a jerk, smart azz, know it all, or anything like that when I post this statement :nono:

but

I thought I had been doing that for the past several years :shrug:

Has nobody noticed??? :bang: :fuss:

Grady

So THAT'S what you were up to???? :p
 
Thanks grady, you have talked me into keep what i have. I will have to do some more research to answer those questions.

We all appreciate the work you have done. without that I don't think my stang would be driveable.

Thanks,
Tom
 
Well Tom

I gotta throw in with what Greg said about a wb being a big help.

If you got probs with being too fat in CL you can always use the K's and lambse to guide you to a more acceptable ratio.

You will just have to be a bit more specific and I'm sure you will get the help you need.

Grady
 
final5-0 said:
I don't wanna seem like a jerk, smart azz, know it all, or anything like that when I post this statement :nono:

but

I thought I had been doing that for the past several years :shrug:

Has nobody noticed??? :bang: :fuss:

Grady

You smart azz!!! lol. jk... i only been here for about 6 months... and i gots to say i have learned alot from you and evryone else. and i wasn't trying to be a dick either when i said can you answer them, i was just wanting to know
 
Guero said:
Can you answer them? or a link?

OK Mr. G

I guess I was kinda caught off guard this afternoon and reacted when I should have responded.

You wanted some links.

You are a regular on the 94-95 forum and have been for quite some time. I gotta think you know who the Tweecer users are sooooooo

You have as many links as there are 94-95 SN Tweecer user member names.

The Tweecer support forum is always available to you at
http://eectuning.org/forums/viewforum.php?f=2

We even have a pretty good specific 94-95 3 or 4 page tuning thread right here on this very site. I thought it was a sticky on the tuning forum but I did not see it. I know it is still around. You'll just have to do the leg work to find it but it will be worth the trouble to find it as it has lots of info.

Point I'm trying to make is .................

One just has to get involved by reading old threads and such which then will give one the opportunity pick up the basics.

Last thing I would say is if you can't find some of the basic info we talked about in a search by using the following:

final5-0
Grady
final5-0 sig link ... My Site

Well ........... What did that X-Files guy say :shrug:

The Info is Out There! ;)

Grady
 
A very basic way to explain the eec workings is.

1. AND #1, our eec is load based...and it gets that load from the MAF.

2. There are 2 kinds of tables, master and slave. The masters are like a room each room has a chair, bed, dresser, mirror and those objects would be the slave. OR- the master is the main table and others get used at diff. times of the master tables use.

3. Tables by default IIRC use the lowest value out of the tables it will use in a situation. Say your at cruise...your using spark_base and alt_base (remember there are sub tables to these) as an example. The value that is lowest is used.

4. Think of the tables as a ven diagram, or overlaping circles. With the overlapping parts of the tables the areas of those tables being used. Again this need or use is based on the LOAD, that is based off the maf.

5. The sensors on the motor that talk to the eec work in a voltage range of as close to 0 volts as possible...like .1003 or .0458 or something for example and a max of as close to 5 volts, say 4.999. The eec takes these voltages and puts them into a calculation that it is programed with that says x amount of volts is = to whatever it is sensing.

6. Ford uses an adaptive stratagy...that changes to an extent over time. It has a +/- range it will go and still not go nuts. Think of it as a way to adapt to manufacture toll. and even reaction to mods. Those sensors all get dumped into the eec at some point and the eec sorts them out to what it THINKS it should do. The tune basicly is like a comb and gets the facts straight between the sensors and what the eec needs to do with that data. Or your now telling the eec what is the new normal.

7. Tweecing or tuning is just that you learn that its not MASSIVE change but little tweecs that make the diff. from good tune perfect tune or crap tune.
 
Guero said:
You smart azz!!! lol. jk... i only been here for about 6 months... and i gots to say i have learned alot from you and evryone else. and i wasn't trying to be a dick either when i said can you answer them, i was just wanting to know

I think I was posting at the same time you were :D

I'm blown away by the fact you only been here that long.

Seems like it has been several years to my way of thinking.

I did not think you were being a smart azz or anything like that
but
As I said above, I reacted and jumped to the conclusion my past efforts were not of any help when that was my original intent.

I can say most of my more specific stuff with charts, data values, and the like is over a year old. I know some of it is over two years ago as well.

How about this ... if you need more spark or fuel and you add it

You go faster :banana:

To answer that kind of Q ... there is only one answer ...........
It depends :shrug:

You use the data to tell you if you need + or - adjustments :)

No different than how a Pro does it on the dyno :nono:

:shrug: Still seems like you've been here for ever :shrug:

Grady
 
Nope i got my Mustang around December of last, year. Trust me i been reading alot over at eectuning.org and it gets kinda confusing, cuz i cant ask whats that, what does it mean and why does it do it. And the guy is sending me a new Tweecer R/T. So hopefully ill get the hang of it more when i do get it. And this site has saved me at least $2,000 of labor i would of payed some mechanic. From my diff oil, to doing the heads and cam(even though i blew my bottom, it was still worth it). i do pay attention. And try to learn as much as i can thanks to all!
 
Guero said:
Trust me i been reading alot over at eectuning.org

Thats great and just what you need to be doing :nice:

You have to give yourself some time for it to all kind of sink in.

Don't waste time on fox or 96 and up stuff. These days, you got so much more 94-95 specific info to focus on ... you newer guys have got so easy :p

and it gets kinda confusing

I really do know what you are talking about
and
You just have to trust me when I say this ..............

Keep on reading the info and it WILL start to make sense ;)

Here is a tip to help you be more efficient with your research :D

Don't read recent threads :nono:

If you can, go way back to when all of us older Tweecer users were learning the basics and you will find more basic info which is just what is needed when starting.

If you focus on the newer threads, you will find mostly specific stuff which could be over your head at this time. Of course, you always wanna focus on those who you know run CBAZA.

Another thing you can do is build yourself a Tweecer folder with sub folders named fuel, spark etc. You can then build sub folders to those like stabilized, mbt, and the like.

This allows you to search the info only once ;)
cause
when you find the info ... you just copy & paste it in ..........
Guero's (aka Self Tuning Guru) Custom Tuning Notes :banana:

cuz i cant ask whats that, what does it mean and why does it do it

Well ... you could ask those basic Q's
but
You show wisdom by not asking those kinds of Q's over there :nice:

Here is how it is and it seems to be kinda harsh :shrug:
but I understand it
and
support it somewhat ... but ... not totally.

Those more knowledgeable before you did not recieve
or
did not expect to recieve step by step guideance to learn the basic info.

Was not needed then
and
is not needed ... all the more so ... these days.

There is WAY more info on this site about CBAZA than there was ANYWHERE when this Tweecer thing got started.

IS THIS PLACE GREAT? ... :banana: ABSOLUTELY :banana:

When you get the basics down and run across a challenge you can't solve with a search and ask a Q of that nature ........ You are gonna start off with WAY WAY more credibility in the self tuning community
than
if you went over there and asked something basic that can be found all over the net like ....... How do I add more spark.

Please understand ... I ain't saying you can't ask Q's :nono:

Just tryin to give you some insite so you can start off on a positive foot as opposed to seeming like ... well ... I think you know what I mean.

Once more my self tuning friend ... stick with it!!!

i do pay attention. And try to learn as much as i can thanks to all!

I agree you do and for trying ... you have my respect :hail2:

I've seen you learn a lot and I guess that is why I was a bit taken back when you said how long you been around.

You can do it :D
Just get busy & get after it ;)

Grady
 
i've been doing a lot, "A LOT" of reading and downloading files.

lots of info to take in but my understanding of what is needed to do and in what order is getting much better. i've downloaded the tweecer program to play around with before i buy the real thing.

the only thing i dont really know is after a change is done, how do you know if that change has improved something. i'm not talking about things you can verify with a WB but things such as spark.
 
you log them.

For spark you log spark and see were your load is, you then look at your tables to verify that at that rpm and load you have that spark value. At WOT you should see what you command in the upper 1-2 rows if setup properly.

for the MAF/Injectors and such you look at the KAMFR (we call them K's for short) to see if they are off. The goal is to get them as close to 1 as possible so a 1.002 or a .9998 or instance to indicate that your non-wot areas of the tune the MAF transfer and such are good. For WOT your going to need a W/B to make sure your getting what your commanding in the tables.
 
Dan95-5.0 said:
i've been doing a lot, "A LOT" of reading and downloading files.

lots of info to take in but my understanding of what is needed to do and in what order is getting much better. i've downloaded the tweecer program to play around with before i buy the real thing.

the only thing i dont really know is after a change is done, how do you know if that change has improved something. i'm not talking about things you can verify with a WB but things such as spark.
I cant find the Tweecer download to mess atound while i wait. Were is it?