how does this work air adjuster
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stang&2Birds
Founding Member
If it's for an EFI car, throw it in the trash and instead get a 17-foot wing with plenty of Neon. At least the ricer wing won't f******up your engine.
Dmarstroker
Member
I have that same device, when you plug it in make sure you have the toggle switch on direct before you turn it on. After you turn it on, then record what the digital reader is spitting. After you get a range then flip the switch to adjust and turn the idle screw to where the range that it was giving you when it was on "direct".
stang&2Birds
Founding Member
WARNING! Rant mode on! 
I HAVE to ask, just *WTF* is this POS SUPPOSE to o?????? Sounds like stupid ricer stuff to me!!
Honestly, if you do not understand the *basics* of the Stang EFI that Probst talks about, then BEWARE of ANY/ALL RICER add-on BS products! I do NOT care WHO sells or makes them! There are VERY FEW (any?) non Tweccer like products that do not CAUSE PROBLEMS in the EEC!!!!!
Even those analog MAF scalers CAUSE PROBLEMS! It just that the problems happen only under certain conditions. And, at least for those POS products, the problems are often minor. The problem is the discontinuity jump between the ranges (tolerance) and the poor "temp co's" (varying with temp) of pot resistors, etc.
Then again, I just design this type of crud and taught control/response theory for many years. So, believe companies out their to make a buck by selling you cr*p instead of me. That's fine. It's your time and money! And, potential your engine on the side of the road with it's guts puked out!
BTW: Before I hear any "TPS" pure ricer BS "info" on how the TPS works and what it does, read the following:
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/Mustang-TPS-FAQ.html
Yea, even some "respected companies" (but not respected by me or other Elec/ Computer/ Mech Engineers) are 110% CLUELESS on how the very BASIC EEC-IV EFI system works. Makes you wonder how the **** they can design anything for an EEC-V+ system or a GM system!
Well, there will always be people willing to buy and believe ricer cr*p. SCUMBALL companies make their POS products sound good. All I can do is inform people so they can avoid those SCUMBALL companies and their products that are out there to screw people and make a buck!
I HAVE to ask, just *WTF* is this POS SUPPOSE to o?????? Sounds like stupid ricer stuff to me!!
Honestly, if you do not understand the *basics* of the Stang EFI that Probst talks about, then BEWARE of ANY/ALL RICER add-on BS products! I do NOT care WHO sells or makes them! There are VERY FEW (any?) non Tweccer like products that do not CAUSE PROBLEMS in the EEC!!!!!
Even those analog MAF scalers CAUSE PROBLEMS! It just that the problems happen only under certain conditions. And, at least for those POS products, the problems are often minor. The problem is the discontinuity jump between the ranges (tolerance) and the poor "temp co's" (varying with temp) of pot resistors, etc.
Then again, I just design this type of crud and taught control/response theory for many years. So, believe companies out their to make a buck by selling you cr*p instead of me. That's fine. It's your time and money! And, potential your engine on the side of the road with it's guts puked out!
BTW: Before I hear any "TPS" pure ricer BS "info" on how the TPS works and what it does, read the following:
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/Mustang-TPS-FAQ.html
Yea, even some "respected companies" (but not respected by me or other Elec/ Computer/ Mech Engineers) are 110% CLUELESS on how the very BASIC EEC-IV EFI system works. Makes you wonder how the **** they can design anything for an EEC-V+ system or a GM system!
Well, there will always be people willing to buy and believe ricer cr*p. SCUMBALL companies make their POS products sound good. All I can do is inform people so they can avoid those SCUMBALL companies and their products that are out there to screw people and make a buck!
LtDavis
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
http://www.mass-air.com is the website of the company (IST) that makes the air adjuster. They say it brings a hunting/surging idle back to normal after engine mods have been done. Looks like it allows you to change the voltage of the MAF and claims you can change the air fuel ratio... I'd be sure to at least have an air/fuel gauge installed before playing with this thing.
Has anyone ever actually tried using this thing to see if it works or are we just going to make fun of the guy who's asking the question by calling him a ricer and scream about all the aftermarket companies? I know you have your degrees and stuff, but why don't you simply inform the person why a specific product is bad, rather than going on a rant about all aftermarket electronics companies? I agree that C&L is a scumball company and has horrible customer service but I think SOME companies are truly just trying to help fellow stangers and in the capitalist spirit are charging some money for it.
so anyhoo, has anyone actually used this thing? does it actually work? flame me away for questioning the god of fluid dynamics and electronics
Has anyone ever actually tried using this thing to see if it works or are we just going to make fun of the guy who's asking the question by calling him a ricer and scream about all the aftermarket companies? I know you have your degrees and stuff, but why don't you simply inform the person why a specific product is bad, rather than going on a rant about all aftermarket electronics companies? I agree that C&L is a scumball company and has horrible customer service but I think SOME companies are truly just trying to help fellow stangers and in the capitalist spirit are charging some money for it.
so anyhoo, has anyone actually used this thing? does it actually work? flame me away for questioning the god of fluid dynamics and electronics
Yes I have had one for quite awhile now 
But I didn't buy it to make any corrections for power adders but to experiment whether it could be used for making any difference in mpg over long distance cruising etc and the answer is yes for that purpose it's proved itself.
I have it set so the a/f leans off just a tad when activated so when I'm on a long cruise I flick it on. My 5.0 is in a 4wd and I do a lot of long distance trips so mpg is important.
But a word of warning I wouldn't consider using one without having a wideband a/f guage to assist with setting it and like a temp gauge etc so you can glance at it periodically to see if all is ok.
Actually, I have found the a/f guage to be the best investment I have made as it tells you instantly if there's any issues whenever you make any mods. It's probably saved my engine a few times as you may think its running fine and it sounds fine and then you check this guage and it shows it's running super lean. Can get a bit scary
The only gripe I had with the adjuster is the adjusting screw is way too small and its a bitch to adjust while driving and at the same time checking the a/f etc
I did play about with it at one stage when I found I had to go to larger injectors due to further mods and while I was waiting for a Tweecer and again it did seem to bring the a/f back into the right ranges, although I didn't do any long test drives so from that perspective I can't give any guarantees.
I now have a Tweecer but so far that's not proving to be as good as I thought. I got a A9L for it and have had a guru imput several adjustments into the 4 positions to test, but so far neither will run my engine exactly right and finding the perfect tune has been very frustrating, when my old 1993 ECU with a Pro M maf seems to run it much better.
However, to be fair so far it hasn't been run while on a dyno and realistically I think thats where it will prove its worth in being able to set it perfect but I am now planning some further mods so it's now not worth doing this until they are done.
Even with eventually running the Tweecer I can't see any reason why I won't be able to still use the air adjuster but time will tell.
Because I only wanted to use it periodically, I fitted it inside rather than under the hood as recommended This is my setp with the adjuster next to the AEM wideband. Just started it for this pic You can see the adjusters MAF volt reading and the switch is obscured next to this panel.
I also brought their TPS adjuster and that has been gold.
But I didn't buy it to make any corrections for power adders but to experiment whether it could be used for making any difference in mpg over long distance cruising etc and the answer is yes for that purpose it's proved itself.
I have it set so the a/f leans off just a tad when activated so when I'm on a long cruise I flick it on. My 5.0 is in a 4wd and I do a lot of long distance trips so mpg is important.
But a word of warning I wouldn't consider using one without having a wideband a/f guage to assist with setting it and like a temp gauge etc so you can glance at it periodically to see if all is ok.
Actually, I have found the a/f guage to be the best investment I have made as it tells you instantly if there's any issues whenever you make any mods. It's probably saved my engine a few times as you may think its running fine and it sounds fine and then you check this guage and it shows it's running super lean. Can get a bit scary
The only gripe I had with the adjuster is the adjusting screw is way too small and its a bitch to adjust while driving and at the same time checking the a/f etc
I did play about with it at one stage when I found I had to go to larger injectors due to further mods and while I was waiting for a Tweecer and again it did seem to bring the a/f back into the right ranges, although I didn't do any long test drives so from that perspective I can't give any guarantees.
I now have a Tweecer but so far that's not proving to be as good as I thought. I got a A9L for it and have had a guru imput several adjustments into the 4 positions to test, but so far neither will run my engine exactly right and finding the perfect tune has been very frustrating, when my old 1993 ECU with a Pro M maf seems to run it much better.
However, to be fair so far it hasn't been run while on a dyno and realistically I think thats where it will prove its worth in being able to set it perfect but I am now planning some further mods so it's now not worth doing this until they are done.
Even with eventually running the Tweecer I can't see any reason why I won't be able to still use the air adjuster but time will tell.
Because I only wanted to use it periodically, I fitted it inside rather than under the hood as recommended
This is my setp with the adjuster next to the AEM wideband. Just started it for this pic You can see the adjusters MAF volt reading and the switch is obscured next to this panel.I also brought their TPS adjuster and that has been gold
.
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LtDavis
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
stang&2Birds
Founding Member
A few things about that!
It will only SCALE the MAF output. So, if someone foolishly used an adj FP or injectors without a chip/MAF, then that POS will help SCALE DOWN the MAF output so that the EEC **MAY** be able to get into closed loop. But, the load calculation will be OFF so the the engine will still likely run like cr*p.
Ozrunner: HOW IN THE WORLD did that POS ADJUST YOUR A/F ratio????
If you even think that there was a possibility of that happening, then do not touch your Tweecer! Please, read Probst before you blow up your engine!! It's your engine, so do what you want. I'm just trying to help you avoid have an engine with its guts puked on the ground.
The ONLY way that POS can adjust the A/F is if the MAF is so screwed up (cough, cough C&L) that the EEC is running in open loop and running PIG RICH because it's in FMEM.
As for "digital controlled", I bet that it's a POS low cost design (2 layer PC board ) that does not come close to meeting proper engineering design methodology. As for "DIGITAL", that would mean that they use an A/D and and DAC. So, what's the resolution, the speed, the S&N, the bandwidth, the delay, the response curve, the ACCURACY, the NOISE, and I could go on and on. I'd bet that they use a slow POS PIC or similar low-end cheap *ss MicroController.
Basically, they need fast *12*bit+ A/D & DACs with at most 2 bits of noise and an accurate voltage reference. And, a low-noise board design. If they don't have that, it's a JOKE! Basic Electrical Engineering. Heck, even many high-school students that take electronics know basic electronic design rules like that.
BTW: Even *today*, there aren't many people out there that have done a successful design with the specs that I mentioned. I know, as a consultant, I often go in to fix designs that are noisy even on 10-bit systems.
Also, I've had my my own custom EEC data logger for a long time. Getting 12-bit accuracy in the POS auto environment is not easy. Also, *intelligent* filtering (IIR, FIR) is STRONGLY desired over the POS low pass filters.
Of course, my designs HAVE to work (Space) and lives often depend on them working (AeroSpace). And, I taught this stuff for many years.
IF someone want to scale the output of their MAF and they had a Tweecer to do a custom MAF curve, then that type of MAF scaler "may" help. But, *I* wouldn't trust it!
It will only SCALE the MAF output. So, if someone foolishly used an adj FP or injectors without a chip/MAF, then that POS will help SCALE DOWN the MAF output so that the EEC **MAY** be able to get into closed loop. But, the load calculation will be OFF so the the engine will still likely run like cr*p.
Ozrunner: HOW IN THE WORLD did that POS ADJUST YOUR A/F ratio????
If you even think that there was a possibility of that happening, then do not touch your Tweecer! Please, read Probst before you blow up your engine!! It's your engine, so do what you want. I'm just trying to help you avoid have an engine with its guts puked on the ground.
The ONLY way that POS can adjust the A/F is if the MAF is so screwed up (cough, cough C&L) that the EEC is running in open loop and running PIG RICH because it's in FMEM.
As for "digital controlled", I bet that it's a POS low cost design (2 layer PC board ) that does not come close to meeting proper engineering design methodology. As for "DIGITAL", that would mean that they use an A/D and and DAC. So, what's the resolution, the speed, the S&N, the bandwidth, the delay, the response curve, the ACCURACY, the NOISE, and I could go on and on. I'd bet that they use a slow POS PIC or similar low-end cheap *ss MicroController.
Basically, they need fast *12*bit+ A/D & DACs with at most 2 bits of noise and an accurate voltage reference. And, a low-noise board design. If they don't have that, it's a JOKE! Basic Electrical Engineering. Heck, even many high-school students that take electronics know basic electronic design rules like that.
BTW: Even *today*, there aren't many people out there that have done a successful design with the specs that I mentioned. I know, as a consultant, I often go in to fix designs that are noisy even on 10-bit systems.
Also, I've had my my own custom EEC data logger for a long time. Getting 12-bit accuracy in the POS auto environment is not easy. Also, *intelligent* filtering (IIR, FIR) is STRONGLY desired over the POS low pass filters.
Of course, my designs HAVE to work (Space) and lives often depend on them working (AeroSpace). And, I taught this stuff for many years.
IF someone want to scale the output of their MAF and they had a Tweecer to do a custom MAF curve, then that type of MAF scaler "may" help. But, *I* wouldn't trust it!
stang&2Birds
Founding Member
Also:
Digital TPS Monitor - Easy TPS Adjustment!!
- The TPS sensor adjustment is a critical settings on Ford engines. You DID adjust your TPS to 0.98 volts with Key-ON-Engine-OFF, didn't you?? Well, our plug-in DIGITAL Monitor makes adjusting your TPS a breeze!! No more piercing wires!! Now includes both 3-pin round and 3-blade oval TPS connectors. Fits nearly all Ford TPS sensors, from 1986-95, except newer 3-pin oval 4.6L engines. (Newer 4.6L, 5.4L, and 6.8L modular engines estimated availability date - late 2006)
WTF!!!
Read:
My TPS FAQ,
The GFUB documentation
Probst,
the EEC code,
etc!
Adjusting the TPS to 0.98 volts is a stupid ricer MOD and even suggesting that shows ZERO understanding of Electrical Engineer!! The EEC 5V and the TPS pot do NOT allow an accurate REPEATABLE 0.01V resolution! Then, there are the MECH tolerances, the Mechanical tolerances between the TPS and the throttle tab, etc!
So, suggesting adjusting the TPS to 0.98 shows ZERO understanding of Electrical or Mechanical Engineering!
And, as I've said for OVER 10 years, the EEC-IV zeros out the TPS at startup!
Again, read:
My TPS FAQ,
The GFUB documentation
Probst,
the EEC code,
etc!
Digital TPS Monitor - Easy TPS Adjustment!!
- The TPS sensor adjustment is a critical settings on Ford engines. You DID adjust your TPS to 0.98 volts with Key-ON-Engine-OFF, didn't you?? Well, our plug-in DIGITAL Monitor makes adjusting your TPS a breeze!! No more piercing wires!! Now includes both 3-pin round and 3-blade oval TPS connectors. Fits nearly all Ford TPS sensors, from 1986-95, except newer 3-pin oval 4.6L engines. (Newer 4.6L, 5.4L, and 6.8L modular engines estimated availability date - late 2006)
WTF!!!
Read:
My TPS FAQ,
The GFUB documentation
Probst,
the EEC code,
etc!
Adjusting the TPS to 0.98 volts is a stupid ricer MOD and even suggesting that shows ZERO understanding of Electrical Engineer!! The EEC 5V and the TPS pot do NOT allow an accurate REPEATABLE 0.01V resolution! Then, there are the MECH tolerances, the Mechanical tolerances between the TPS and the throttle tab, etc!
So, suggesting adjusting the TPS to 0.98 shows ZERO understanding of Electrical or Mechanical Engineering!
And, as I've said for OVER 10 years, the EEC-IV zeros out the TPS at startup!
Again, read:
My TPS FAQ,
The GFUB documentation
Probst,
the EEC code,
etc!
stang&2Birds
Founding Member
stang&2Birds
Founding Member
Mate, FIIK but I assume the altered MAF voltage tricks the ecu to either richen or lean etc, much the same as what I gather a 24lb recalibrated Pro M maf electronics does. But thats what definately shows on the a/f guage when your turn the adjusting dial either way. As I mentioned I only brought it to ascertain if it would help mpg on long cruises.
Thanks mate. I've had Probst's book for years and it is a great book
. But there's no concern with my engine as I've been running the adjuster for well over a year and using it when cruising depending on what speed I pick up 50-80klm a tank (110liters) so I'm way more than happy. Yep, as far as the Tweecer goes its over my head. I figured rather than bust a gut trying to learn it, I have a Tweecer guru doing it for me as once it's set I really won't have any need to do readjustments. But if so, he can do it,
I'm currently using my old ecu with a 24lb Pro M Maf electrics on a 73mm Ford MAF.TPS Adjuster.
Again I don't know about you guys but I have only 2 hands and it was an absolute PITA trying to hold volt meter probes into wires while operating the throttle and this gizmo looked like it would make the whole process must easier and it does. Truly a great item and saves heaps of time.
Yep, again I've read all those numerous links about adjusting versus adapting etc and to be honest over here our dictionary says adapting means adjusting
. I understand the various 0.98v arguments and don't have any problems with that. But I'm always mucking about with different throttle bodies etc etc and I've found many TPS's for some reason didn't automatically fall within the voltage range when fitted and a minor hole mod was needed.
Therefore, this gizmo makes it super fast to double check and honestly it was a great investment. The Ford TPS that I recently fitted to my current accufab was out of this range. Its a great tool to adjust
it into range rather than loose your cool trying to hold volt meter probes.LtDavis
interesting, did you have to cut and splice all the wires to run it all the way to the cabin?
I cut the MAF wires at the ECU behind the kickpanel and fitted a male generic plug to them with a female plug and harness going to the adjuster. On the other cut wires going to the actual MAF I fitted a female generic plug with a male generic plug and harness now going to the MAF.
Idea was if it did cause any issues then it was easy to unplug it and reconnect up the MAF direct to the ECU again.
Like I said I don't know for sure whether it would do all what they say. If you were looking at it for performance adjustments considering you would HAVE to also fit a wideband a/f setup on top of the adjusters cost, given the cost comparison I think it would make much better sense to get a Tweecer as it gives way more scope. But as far as for my purpose it works a treat.
As an offshoot my engine is no slouch and its in a 4Runner, having AFR 185's, XE274HR cam etc etc and my own custom injection so correct a/f ratios are essential. But at this very moment Jay Allen is doing me a custom cam as I'm going to make the bottom section a 347
hence why I recently brought the Tweecer.
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