Questions on exhaust styles - need pics

68converted

68converted

Member
Nov 19, 2003
772
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16
Colorado
#1
I am trying to put together the exhaust for the stang. I am wondering what makes an H-pipe "off road"? From what I can tell from pictures I have seen there is no difference in design? Anyone?

Also, has anyone done the exhaust up above the seat pan plate for your convertible? Pictures? I am trying to make up the H-pipe right now and wonder if the crossover pipe should be the same size diameter as the main tubes?
 

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#3
mustang6tee8 said:
an offroad H pipe is used for newer stangs that originally had catalytic converters. since none of the classic mustags had cats, all of our H pipes could be considered "offroad." also, crossover pipes are usually not as big as the main tubes.
Click to expand...

You know, I thought that was the case, but, with everything I have done to date on this conversion, everything is usually far more complicated than I think at the time. :rlaugh:

Thanks for the tip on the crossover pipe.
 
#4
I would suggest a system with an X pipe if you want a classic with a newer sound. I was at the auto parts store earlier today and an old friend said "I heard a Bad Azz sounding car and when I looked up expecting to see a newer Cobra it was you". Its mean when you really want it to be but when driving regular its more like the sound of an old turbo system. The drawback is depending on your headers it may be very low. I'm not sure about your year model though.

Just my .02
View attachment 328113
View attachment 328114
 
#5
Thanks for the input. I have shorties and the pipes that reach down to where the H-pipe will be, run right beside the deep sump Trans Pan, which is the lowest point on the system.

I want to do the H over the X; as the X is kind of raspy and I want to hear a low rumble. Bet yours does sound sweet though!:nice:

Oh, hey how do you like the Powerdyne? That is the one I was going to buy a while back, but then decided for a milder setup.
 
#6
I have an H with dumped Flows and it has a horrible drone anywhere under 3k rpm. I plan to switch to an X before too long.

AS for the Powerdyne, ( I know he is referring to Shakin but...) the one we had needed rebuilding twice as the bearing froze up. The first rebuild was done at 20k miles and after we put a high $$ ceramic bearing in it did it last 50k. I don't recommend them.
 
#7
Z06killinSBF said:
I have an H with dumped Flows and it has a horrible drone anywhere under 3k rpm. I plan to switch to an X before too long.

AS for the Powerdyne, ( I know he is referring to Shakin but...) the one we had needed rebuilding twice as the bearing froze up. The first rebuild was done at 20k miles and after we put a high $$ ceramic bearing in it did it last 50k. I don't recommend them.
Click to expand...

Dumped flows- H or X you will get drone. I have Dynomax Super Turbos going out the back. So I won't have any issues with drone.

Thanks for info on the Powerdyne; another reason I stayed away.
 
#8
I would have to agree one your assesment of the powerdyne S/C but at $700.00 I couldnt refuse. I also dont plan on putting 10K miles on this car in the next 10 years so bearing failure is not high on my list of things to do. I does build boost and the car runs great and will still allow me to eventually F/I it latter and keep it boosted.
 
#11
68converted said:
Dumped flows- H or X you will get drone.
Click to expand...
Seconded...the drone is from the muffs not the crossover.

For myself...I'm going to have to settle for a mini-H, and it will have to be much farther back than what is considered optimal. There's just no room underneath the convertible for 2.5 inch system, over sized drive shaft, AOD, and the after market trans mount. At least there'll be SOME crossover, some is better than straight back duals.
 
#12
68 conv with X crossover

I have the 2 1/2 inch pipe X crossover Magnaflow system in a 68 mustang convertible with an AOD and long tube headers. The seat platform plate is lowered and modified. It may not be pretty but it works. The front edge of the of the seat platform plate is the low point of the car and occassionally "rubs" the top of speed bumps.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc213/carkent/IMG_0772.jpg
 
#13
This is JBA shorties, Dr. Gas X Pipe, Delta 40 Flowmasters, Flowmaster tailpipes...all 2 1/2". I tacked it all together under the car then pulled it out and had it tigged.
exhaust.jpg
 
#14
I had a local shop do up a couple of bends for me. A couple of welds and presto. H-Pipe. I will finish it up tomorrow and post some picks. No mods to the seat pan plate. All tucked up in the tunnel nice and neat.

Horrendous amount of work but worth it.
 
#16
I've got FPA long tubes, 2.5" H-pipie, T5, Super turbos, tailpipes on a 68 convertible. It's really tight with the belly plate, but doesn't touch. An AOD might be worse.

BTW My Dynomax Turbos drone horribly. Thinking of using tail pipe resonators.
 
#17
S-Car-Go said:
It's really tight with the belly plate, but doesn't touch. An AOD might be worse.
Click to expand...
It is :D

The problem is not so much with the belly-plate, but the width of the pan. Here's a picture of the LTHs in my vert:

randpsmall1.jpg


I took it to the exhaust guy and he talked me into shorty headers, the problem was making the bends from the collectors around the (Windsor-Fox Engineering) AOD mount and back into the tunnel above the belly-plate. He said he could do it but it would be fugly, restrictive, and toast on the first speedbump...like I said...he talked me into a set of shorties.

(note in that picture I still have the factory C-Code drivehsaft and 8")
 
#18
Well I got it finished yesterday. (H-pipe at least) Not too shabby if I must say so myself. Went to take the pics and the camera was dead. I am not able to get over to the shop until Saturday, so I will post some pictures then. Even with the 3 1/2 inch Aluminum driveshaft, I think there is plenty of room. I can't see it moving around more than 3/4 of an inch even with motor torque.

Worst case scenerio, I modify the pan area. The rest of the pipes are clamp connections so I should have it buttoned up on Sat. I also picked up a set of 3" Basanni Xtreame tail pipe ends for free. Just got to get them welded up on Sat. Should look great.

Anyone know how to get the tarnishied chrome shining again?
 
#19
Edbert said:
It is :D

The problem is not so much with the belly-plate, but the width of the pan. Here's a picture of the LTHs in my vert:

randpsmall1.jpg


I took it to the exhaust guy and he talked me into shorty headers, the problem was making the bends from the collectors around the (Windsor-Fox Engineering) AOD mount and back into the tunnel above the belly-plate. He said he could do it but it would be fugly, restrictive, and toast on the first speedbump...like I said...he talked me into a set of shorties.

(note in that picture I still have the factory C-Code drivehsaft and 8")
Click to expand...



Ouch that Fuel Line is a tad bit close to the exhaust.... dont you think?:eek:
 
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