Rolling fenders

Hey guys, I need my fenders rolled. I've called a few body shops and they want 700$ to roll my fenders.
I've searched around the forums and came to the conclusion that for me the eastwood fender roller would be the best/safest bet.

The problem now is finding a place that has it/ willing to rent it out. What have you guys done? I don't want to buy a new one. and one that is local would be awesome, I'm in Southern california.

also, what would you guys suggest to keep the paint from cracking? i've heard a few methods. A. putting painters tape one strip at a time and covering the whole lip and a bit of the outside of fender. B. heating it up with a heat gun (i don't own a heat gun so would a hair dryer work? just a thought) C. cutting the paint along the edge of the lip with an exacto knife.
I might have bondo around there, but i'm not sure.

Thanks in advance for your input.
suki243
 
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here's a video on when I had mines done.

<embed src="http://videos.streetfire.net/vidiac.swf?video=f48f6174-35fa-4e64-90ee-99d4009be91c" width="428" height="352" allowFullScreen="true" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" pluginspage="http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer"></embed><br/><a href="http://videos.streetfire.net/video/rolling-the-rear-fender_139050.htm?ref=0a2e6748-283a-4e39-8ffe-994500f560eb">rolling the rear fender</a>
 
That's pretty much how I did it, with a couple minor exceptions. I'm no bodyman, but I don't feel the dolly does much since all you're really doing is supporting the quarter panel, not working out a dent. I used my hand, since it was before I repainted my car and I didn't want to damage the paint. Also, rather than working one spot over and over, I moved along the enitre wheel lip, from end to end. It will not move all at once, but rather a bit at a time. I'll bet I made 15+ passes with a body hammer before I got it where I wanted it. Just use a fairly heavy hammer with a slight crown, hit move about an inch and repeat until you reach the end. Then start over, using medium blows and lots of patience. I also started at the center (top) of the wheelwell, since that's where the metal is most likely to move easily and I only went as far as was necessary. Since the tire didn't rub in the extreme front or back, I left them alone. As far as the paint cracking, mine didn't and I bent it nearly 90 degrees. You can use a layer of tape, but since you are hitting it with a hammer, it'll likely not do the paint any good, at least in the area your working.
 
That's pretty much how I did it, with a couple minor exceptions. I'm no bodyman, but I don't feel the dolly does much since all you're really doing is supporting the quarter panel, not working out a dent. I used my hand, since it was before I repainted my car and I didn't want to damage the paint. Also, rather than working one spot over and over, I moved along the enitre wheel lip, from end to end. It will not move all at once, but rather a bit at a time. I'll bet I made 15+ passes with a body hammer before I got it where I wanted it. Just use a fairly heavy hammer with a slight crown, hit move about an inch and repeat until you reach the end. Then start over, using medium blows and lots of patience. I also started at the center (top) of the wheelwell, since that's where the metal is most likely to move easily and I only went as far as was necessary. Since the tire didn't rub in the extreme front or back, I left them alone. As far as the paint cracking, mine didn't and I bent it nearly 90 degrees. You can use a layer of tape, but since you are hitting it with a hammer, it'll likely not do the paint any good, at least in the area your working.


I did the same thing, I spent about 2 weeks looking around town to see who had it (fender roller) or could do it. Never found any thing and didn't want to rent it on line because the only place I found it had a wating list of over 3 months. Couldn't use my car because it was cutting the tire. So I got fustrated and did the same thing but I used a rubber mallet I had bought a while ago. I too started in the middle and went one way then the other. I hit moved about 2" hit again all the way around. it wasn't completly rolled so I went a couple of passes on the fender. I used my hand on the fender to help the fender from moving and as support. It took me a while and the paint didn't crack, I folded the lip all the way up. It is completly folded, I am going to add bondo so dirt won't get stuck there and begin to rust haven't done it yet but will. I went to the other side and did the same thing but did it a little faster and at the end I ended up with a small crack on the paint. So if you do it any way be patient
 
Hey guys, I need my fenders rolled. I've called a few body shops and they want 700$ to roll my fenders.
I've searched around the forums and came to the conclusion that for me the eastwood fender roller would be the best/safest bet.

The problem now is finding a place that has it/ willing to rent it out. What have you guys done? I don't want to buy a new one. and one that is local would be awesome, I'm in Southern california.

also, what would you guys suggest to keep the paint from cracking? i've heard a few methods. A. putting painters tape one strip at a time and covering the whole lip and a bit of the outside of fender. B. heating it up with a heat gun (i don't own a heat gun so would a hair dryer work? just a thought) C. cutting the paint along the edge of the lip with an exacto knife.
I might have bondo around there, but i'm not sure.

Thanks in advance for your input.
suki243

Here's some places to rent one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WIDE...m14QQhashZitem160283778800QQitemZ160283778800

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EAST...trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQitemZ220294576524
 
....It is completly folded, I am going to add bondo so dirt won't get stuck there and begin to rust haven't done it yet but will.


DON'T BONDO IT!!! ....or you WILL get rust in there.

I'm not sure exactly what you do though, if you don't fill it, dirt will and it'll hold water. If you do fill it, you'd need something that will repell water, remain bonded to the surface, not shrink, remain flexible (ie. not harden or dry out).

Some sort of asphalt based caulk or roofing tar might work. Painting some POR15 or something like that in there might do it.
 
Hey guys, I need my fenders rolled. I've called a few body shops and they want 700$ to roll my fenders.
I've searched around the forums and came to the conclusion that for me the eastwood fender roller would be the best/safest bet.

The problem now is finding a place that has it/ willing to rent it out. What have you guys done? I don't want to buy a new one. and one that is local would be awesome, I'm in Southern california.

also, what would you guys suggest to keep the paint from cracking? i've heard a few methods. A. putting painters tape one strip at a time and covering the whole lip and a bit of the outside of fender. B. heating it up with a heat gun (i don't own a heat gun so would a hair dryer work? just a thought) C. cutting the paint along the edge of the lip with an exacto knife.
I might have bondo around there, but i'm not sure.

Thanks in advance for your input.
suki243


I've only had one fender crack on me and it was because of the bondo. We always use a heat gun to heat up the paint so it won't chip but there is always that chance something can happen.

We charge 75 a fender to roll fenders - 1 hour per fender
 
New Orleans

Hey Guys I'm in New Orleans does anyone know of a place close to me that does it?

I need to get it done really badly when I'm in the car by my self I have never had a problem but a good friend of mine came in town so there I was bragging about my old car gaining Value wile our friends with the new cars only loose value. so we go for a ride and when we made that first rt turn a very loud bad sound so I got out to see what it was and the tire had pulled the edge of the fender down ( that sucks) Well he was still impressed with the Ice cold A/C (thanks Vintage Air)!
 
The best caulk for every job!

I work at a boat yard and this stuff is what seals eveything on a boat we repair. It is like the por-15 of caulk... Once it's on you cant get it off. This stuff is what I would use over anything. It may cost a bit more but to know there will never be water there it is worth it.
My work gets it here but it might not be the cheapest.

Fisheries Supply Search: 3m%25205200

The difference is fast dry and normal... the fast dry only comes in white but the other comes in black and some other colors. If you want other great 3m products this place has some amazing things!

I have used good bathroom caulks in all weather and it doesn't seem to hold up. It falls apart after a short amount of time. Just make sure you clean it out. For those who have not yet rolled their lips clean it first and maybe try putting a small bead of it in the corner first so that it squeezes out as you roll the lip. just an idea. Not sure if the heat would make it runny or not though.