What to Keep, Move, or Delete... ENGINE BAY QUESTIONS!

I am also in the process of doing the same thing. If you cut a hole in the drivers side apron you can fit the fuse box and wiring through and mount it in the inner fender. I found a site called MustangAddiction.com. he shows some ways of cleaning up the egine bay and smoothing everything out under the hood. there are some good pics there I reccommend you check it out first.

Also I heard you have to extend the passanger head light wiring after you relocte the wiring to the fender. As for the wiring that is on top of the rad apparently can go underneath the rad.

I have also seen guys use windshield washer hose with a slit down the middle to go around the sharp edges of the holes you cut in you apron

The ccrm can be moved to the inner fender aswell

If I think of anything else I will let you know.

BTW that website is Mike's. Low 5.0 on here. I'm sure if you guys have any questions he would be glad to help ya's out. I have be online friends with him pretty much since I joined here and he's a great guy (not trying to sound gay). He's very helpful and understanding if your not the smartest with what your asking questions about.
 
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I am also in the process of doing the same thing. If you cut a hole in the drivers side apron you can fit the fuse box and wiring through and mount it in the inner fender. I found a site called MustangAddiction.com. he shows some ways of cleaning up the egine bay and smoothing everything out under the hood. there are some good pics there I reccommend you check it out first.

Also I heard you have to extend the passanger head light wiring after you relocte the wiring to the fender. As for the wiring that is on top of the rad apparently can go underneath the rad.

I have also seen guys use windshield washer hose with a slit down the middle to go around the sharp edges of the holes you cut in you apron

The ccrm can be moved to the inner fender aswell

If I think of anything else I will let you know.

Yea his bay dripps sexxxx im thinking about painting mine red rather then flat black after doing some test painting...
 
I have limited knowledge about the heating and AC systems so can anyone tell me if I can either bypass or remove the heater core and still be able to use the AC? It doesn't get cold enough here to use the heater but I definitely need the AC from April to October.
I'd like to remove some weight and clean up the engine bay by removing the heater lines.

Surely someone knows the answer. I'd like to remove the hard heater pipes from the intake manifold and remove the heater core altogether because it's never cold enough here for me to use the heater. I do need the AC to be working though in our blazing hot summers so can I remove the heater core/pipes and still have a functioning AC?
 
Surely someone knows the answer. I'd like to remove the hard heater pipes from the intake manifold and remove the heater core altogether because it's never cold enough here for me to use the heater. I do need the AC to be working though in our blazing hot summers so can I remove the heater core/pipes and still have a functioning AC?

post your own topic in tech:OT:
 
Why is it off topic? I want to clean up my engine bay so my question is related. I've already removed the smog pump assembly with piping, plugged the holes at the back of the heads, and removed the EGR. I'd like to remove the heater pipes next but not if I won't be able to use the AC.
Since I've already removed the smog pump, I'm thinking about replacing the big, heavy stock alternator mounting bracket with Trans-Dapt Performance Products 9455 - Trans-Dapt Performance Steel Alternator Brackets - summitracing.com
My cruise control hasn't worked since I bought the car and since I never use it anyway, the cruise control module and cable to TB will go.
 
Why is it off topic? I want to clean up my engine bay so my question is related. I've already removed the smog pump assembly with piping, plugged the holes at the back of the heads, and removed the EGR. I'd like to remove the heater pipes next but not if I won't be able to use the AC.
Since I've already removed the smog pump, I'm thinking about replacing the big, heavy stock alternator mounting bracket with Trans-Dapt Performance Products 9455 - Trans-Dapt Performance Steel Alternator Brackets - summitracing.com
My cruise control hasn't worked since I bought the car and since I never use it anyway, the cruise control module and cable to TB will go.

just saying if your complaining about help not comming quick enough might be faster
 
You can remove the hard heater lines but you still need to keep the hose that runs from the water pump to the Temperature sender. I tried to block the line off at the water pump and the car would overheat frequently. Also if you delete the heater the AC will still work, you just wont have any control over how cold the AC is, it will always be at its coldest. It uses the heater to warm the chilled air.
 
Thanks Jon. That was the answer that I was looking for and I think the ECT elbow kit from Breeze Automotive Factory Five Racing is what I need.

Well, I removed the heater tube assembly together with the heater hoses after all and used the Breeze Automotive ECT sensor elbow kit to reconnect the short hose from the intake manifold to the water pump as shown in this pic:

ECT_Sensor_Elbow_Kit.jpg


I sealed off the two heater core pipes with rubber caps (5/8" and 3/4" size).
Since I'd removed the smog pump with all the associated hoses, valves, and pipes, I decided to amputate part of the alternator/tensioner pulley/smog pump bracket as shown in the pic below and saved 2lb in the process:

Alternatorsmog.JPG


With the EGR gone as well, the passenger side of the engine compartment looks much less cluttered and changing the plugs is now much easier than when all the EGR/smog crap was in place.
 
Thanks Jon. That was the answer that I was looking for and I think the ECT elbow kit from Breeze Automotive Factory Five Racing is what I need.
As for the AC being at its coldest, I don't think I'll mind that when it's over 115*F outside in mid-summer.

That looks like it would be great for my Cobra since the oil cooler line hooks up to the factory heater tube. The coolant basically flows from the oil cooler adapter at the filter, through the heater core, and into the manifold. At least, that's how it looks like it flows. Installing that would just cut the heater core out of the picture.
 
how much wight does removing the AC Save? The Condenser, Canister and the AC Pump?

Im taking mine out as well for the weight factor. It does not get hot enough up here long enough to really need it