Overheated my car, now I need to know how to find the problem and what to check over

StreetDreamsGT

New Member
Mar 6, 2003
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New Jersey
Ok so I finally fix all my engine codes then I go and get myself into more trouble :nonono:. So here's everything that happened last night I finished class and stopped off to get gas. I have a stock engine, bumped timing 14*, full exhaust, 70mm tb and erg spacer, and a 76mm C&L CAI nothing too extreme. I heard how some guys have been able to run lower octane gas without pinging or knocking so I decided to throw in some super which was 89 octane. Anyway, upon leaving the gas station I pull out go a couple of miles then noticed the temp gauge went all the way through the red and was resting at the very top... being a dumbass I figured the gauge must've finally went, my car wasn't showing any signs of overheating.

I hopped onto the pkwy and drove toward my exit got about a mile from my exit when I started to notice pinging (marbles in the intake sound) and I started smoking, I pulled over immediately, and upon pulling to a stop the car stalled. I ended up calling a tow truck, but when he showed up he already had someone on the bed and he told me he had to drop them off then he'd be back. I popped the hood and noticed coolant had puked over the front bumper, and a little bit of the top of the hood. Every time I tried to start it there was a knock and pinging, after letting it cool for a little it started up and sounded normal, however I had to open the throttle a few times to get it to run without cutting out but once I did that it idled... roughly but it still idled. I limped it hope pulling over every time the gauge shot up (which seemed to be less than a minute).

I haven't checked anything today but here's some things I know which are wrong...

I need a new pressure cap, I noticed a coolant drip from the cap the other day, not gushing, just a very very slow drip but it still means it's not holding the pressure like it should right?

The thermostat is a month old at most... I checked it before putting it on and made sure to drill a hole in it.

The clutch fan is broken and I have an electric one I wanted to put in today, but it still gets hot on the pkwy so that wouldn't be my only problem right?

The plastic air dam is missing, I don't think it had one to begin with and I changed my lx to a gt so I'd have to see where it goes and what it looks like then I'll make my own.

I noticed my coolant looks green but when I pulled the sensor out of the overflow it looked almost like the milkshake color you get when you get oil and coolant mixed.

I figured my problem is a combination of these things, I just wanted to know where to start as far as checking to see if I screwed anything up (pressure test etc...), if there's a way to check to see if my radiator has blockages and if the water pump is shot, and if you guys think the lower octane fuel could also be a cause of the car getting so hot so quickly, since it's never shot up like that it only gets really hot on the pkwy usually it's right at the "M" in the normal during driving around town(yes it's a stock gauge, yes I plan on changing it when I get the money). I appreciate all the help guys.
 
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without the air dam and a broken clutch fan your car will overheat in short order. Just because your T-stat is only a month old doesnt mean that it hasnt gone bad and stuck closed. At this point I would be concerned about the milkshake coolant. could be head gasket or a lower intake gasket. For the time being get a new fan clutch from the local parts store, drain the coolant, top the system off and burp it to get all the air out. Then I would take it to a shop and have the radiator serviced. If/when all that checks out see about getting an air dam in there. Lots of guys take them out or leave them off when they break, but your car needs it for proper air flow to the engine.
 
I just looked at the engine for a second, no coolant in the oil (checked the oil), the overflow bottle is filled almost to the top but when I pull the radiator cap off the radiator looks like it's empty, would that mean there's a blockage? I have a parts car I could pull a working radiator, clutch fan, and water pump off... should I bother with the water pump or just toss in the other radiator and clutch fan then go from there?

Does anyone have a picture of the air dam and it's location?
I don't want to do a lot to this engine because it has 178K miles on it... I'm planning on putting a low mileage explorer block in there with new gaskets and all I don't want to waste unneeded time or money on this one. An e fan, radiator, and air dam are important and easy fixes though compared to new gaskets so if I can get away with those let me know.
 
Another "My car overheated and I drove it anyway" thread. Hahaha.

Why does everyone insist on trying to drive their car home when it's overheating?

I mean, if you're out for a jog and break your leg, do you try to keep running to get home or do you sit down and wait for an ambulance?

The original problem that caused it to overheat is probably a very simple fix, but since you drove it hot.... well now there is probably some expensive internal damage that needs to be addressed.

Way to go. So, for the love of Pete folks, when your car is overheating, shut it off and TOW it home.
 
I just looked at the engine for a second, no coolant in the oil (checked the oil), the overflow bottle is filled almost to the top but when I pull the radiator cap off the radiator looks like it's empty, would that mean there's a blockage? I have a parts car I could pull a working radiator, clutch fan, and water pump off... should I bother with the water pump or just toss in the other radiator and clutch fan then go from there?

Does anyone have a picture of the air dam and it's location?
I don't want to do a lot to this engine because it has 178K miles on it... I'm planning on putting a low mileage explorer block in there with new gaskets and all I don't want to waste unneeded time or money on this one. An e fan, radiator, and air dam are important and easy fixes though compared to new gaskets so if I can get away with those let me know.

it means you boiled all the coolant out of your car and its now in the overflow bottle. IF you dont want to waste time or money on this engine pull it out now and strip the things you are going to need for your exploder build. no point in spinning your wheels.
 
It sounds like the thermostat stuck closed and it puked most of the coolant out.

Before replacing the fan clutch, thermostat and adding the air deflector, you need to find out if you caused any collateral damage. If it were me, I'd perform a compression check and pressure test the cooling system. You might have popped a head gaskets or warped a cylinder head.
 
Another "My car overheated and I drove it anyway" thread. Hahaha.

Why does everyone insist on trying to drive their car home when it's overheating?

I mean, if you're out for a jog and break your leg, do you try to keep running to get home or do you sit down and wait for an ambulance?

The original problem that caused it to overheat is probably a very simple fix, but since you drove it hot.... well now there is probably some expensive internal damage that needs to be addressed.

Way to go. So, for the love of Pete folks, when your car is overheating, shut it off and TOW it home.

I'm sure you never did anything like that when you were learning :rolleyes:. All joking aside I would've pulled over right then and there... but I didn't think it would've been that hot, it was sitting for about 3 hrs while I was in class
and in less than three minutes I look over and the gauge was all the way to the top (beyond the red and into the black), I figured it was just gone, my dad used to have a pickup which the gas gauge would hold at F until it was about 1/4 of a tank left then it would drop to E. Besides I can't change any of that now, I need to know where to go from here.

I'll perform a compression check, to pressure test the cooling system I need to rent a tool from autozone right?

I'd yank this engine in an instant, but I'm waiting to get the replacement in at the moment.
 
ah... many a times have I done this. Even a short drive with the engine pinging like that causes bad damage. That pinging is detonation, and detonation melts parts, and messes things up. Means that the engine got soo flipping hot that before it was sparked by the ignition the gas lit up when it wasn't supposed to. Easily blows cheap gaskets, and overheats metals. Do a compression test, and a coolant pressure test. If your cooling system cannot hold a simple 16 lbs, you better start at the headgaskets.
 
1. It sounds like the radiator cap wasn't holding pressure to begin with, and that would explain why the coolant slowly boiled away from the radiator while the reservoir bottle was still nearly full.

2. You then added lower octane fuel to an engine with advanced timing, causing it to ping and that probably blew a head gasket. More coolant entered the cylinders (at least one) so the gauge pegged to the right, and at least one plug doesn't fire properly 'cause it's wet so the engine runs rough.

Pull the plugs and take a look. If you find at least one that's wet or you see coolant coming out of a plug hole in the head, you've confirmed no.2.
 
ah... many a times have I done this. Even a short drive with the engine pinging like that causes bad damage. That pinging is detonation, and detonation melts parts, and messes things up. Means that the engine got soo flipping hot that before it was sparked by the ignition the gas lit up when it wasn't supposed to. Easily blows cheap gaskets, and overheats metals. Do a compression test, and a coolant pressure test. If your cooling system cannot hold a simple 16 lbs, you better start at the headgaskets.

BINGO
 
Yea last night after it overheated it was knocking bad upon trying to start it up. I have a leak in the radiator, probably due to all that pressure in the system last night, I do have a blown head gasket too :/... coolant spewing out from the radiator when the cap is off and the car isn't even warm...I also have white smoke coming out of the tail pipes. 178,600 miles... this engine put in its' time. I'll save the block in case I want a 331 in the future :nice:.

Well gents I appreciate all the help you've given. Looks like she's off the road until the new engine comes, too bad, I just got my new tires in yesterday. I'll be buying an explorer block A.S.A.P. so if anyone needs an intake or the tb/egr spacer drop me a pm. What have we learned... nothing below 93 octane on a motor with advanced timing! :nonono:
 
Any time you touch the timing, 92 or better gas is required, it's not an option.
But i don't think that's what caused you problem, unless you were beating on it badly.

As for the air deflector, it's of my opinion that's a myth.
Never have i seen it in person be an issue, hell mines been missing for 15 years.
My buddy also owns a mustang shop, and they are missing off quite a few cars trust me.

Your thermostat probably locked up, and as Tenor said it boiled the water out, and that was the issue.
 
Is it worth it to upgrade to an aftermarket radiator? It seems like I could get another stocker for pretty cheap, and this wouldn't be more than a bolt on car. The rest of the cooling system would consist of a high flow water pump, e fan, and a 180* t-stat.