just picked up a project motor

96SCstang

New Member
Jul 22, 2006
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novi, MI
i just got back home from picking up a complete motor less an oil pan from a 2000 gt. i'm pretty pumped cause it only cost me 100 bucks. i am planning on pretty much starting from scratch and taking it all apart and getting the block deep cleaned and have all the neccessary things done to it. i am looking to build a very reliable 500-550 rwhp car. just looking for the best and most affordible way to do it. i do want good parts though...and time isn't an issue. my motor runs great now and i am in no hurry. me and my dad will be doing this together in our spare time and when i get the parts. where can i get a good rotating assembly for a resonable price? what have you guys used? any tricks or tips you may have would be great as well. maybe let me know your internal setups and stuff like that. thanks alot for any info. :flag:
 
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yea....that was my first choice. just wasn't sure if there were any better ones. forged is def. the reason for doing this. my stock motor is at 425 now and i fear of it going any day cause i am pretty hard on it. it is lidio tuned though so it should be alright i suppose but i have just gotten used to the power and now i want more lol :D
 
CP pistons, H beam rods and a cobra crank. that S trim MAY take you in the low 500 range. i would send it back and get the t trim upgrade for about $800 and bump the power in the mid 600 range.

600 RWHP makes a fun street car that still has good manners :D
 
yea...i was thinking of sending it in anyway cause the noise it makes is getting annoying lol. it's only 800 for the t-trim upgrade?? that's what i'll do for sure. can it be more economical to buy the parts seperatly or together? i should have the assembly balanced right? so i could buy parts seperatly and then have them balanced together and be fine? i was thinking of shooting for 600 horsepower but i'm not sure yet. it just seems that all my buddies with 600 or more horse seem to have more problems than the ones that are around 550 or below.
 
stock crank, forged rods and pistons. maybe a little port work on the heads (free) and especially good rings.. stock hg's are fine and intake. all in all you might have about 8-900 into it, you already have all the expensive parts..

also keep the windsor cams, they are lighter and they have a better degree spec from the factory, so more hp, smoother idle, and less rotating mass those chains have to turn..
 
the "hurt piston" is a broken top ringland on the number 2 piston. shouldn't be an issue...the block looks good. and rusty....i'm not keeping the stock pi cams in it. at least putting a stage 2 of some sort in.
 
you have to go after market blower cams of some sort, p&p those heads would be real benificial for the extra breathing room. remember if you go boost "you need more air in to make more boost" p&p is a really good way to get the most out of your p/a, it makes the p/a more efficiant in cramming in more air.
 
I didn't say it would make more boost dumda** it makes the s/c work more efficiant at making more boost, it will cause the airflow to be smoother and compress better w/o turbulance. In some cases it decreases detination
 
calm down fellas :rolleyes:.....when i said of some sort i ment of some brand. they will be blower cams fo sho. and yes the heads are getting a major p&p as we speak at livernois. there R&D department is second to none around here. i wouldnt let them tune my car but they do some nice work with modular heads. i just picked up a cobra crank and teksid block today for 200 dollars!! pretty pumped about that....so i really am only using the heads off that motor now. things are coming together faster than expected.