I have heard from numerous people and companies that four link is a out dated suspension and it just sucks. I am building a road race mustang and have a adjustable four link set up...think it is going to suck. I heard the best is a torque arm set up. I heard that the four link will bind no matter what and you will never know what your car will do when going into the turns,
does the four link really suck?
- Thread starter njoliver
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It's not that it's BAD, it's just not as good for the twisties as a panhard bar/torque arm setup. A 4 link is better suited for drag racing.
Shaolin Crane
Banned
Shaolin Crane
Banned
Shaolin Crane
Banned
Steeda has a 5-link conversion that was supposed to be pretty nice for road race types. It made the UCA's parallel to the lowers, and added a panhard bar.
Torque arms are good and not too expensive. Maximum Motorsports and Global West have good options there. You could also run a stock type setup with heim's in the UCA's at the housing end.
If your looking for the best road race rear suspension, lookup/contact North Race Cars about a Watts Link.
What is your current setup?
If you are
Torque arms are good and not too expensive. Maximum Motorsports and Global West have good options there. You could also run a stock type setup with heim's in the UCA's at the housing end.
If your looking for the best road race rear suspension, lookup/contact North Race Cars about a Watts Link.
What is your current setup?
If you are
Shaolin Crane
Banned
uhm its was a joke, something you go, haha, at
I was joking with you. when I first looked at it I did not get. I get it now
i got the koni single adjustable/H&R springs, MM lowers, FRPP uppers, MM panhard bar, with MM tubular A-arms on my 95...unfortunately, everything is still in the box, but i am doing a road race/autocross setup and feel completely confident with anything you will be able to throw at the car...
call Maximum Motorsports and talk to jason...before you call, write down all the questions you want answered and once you get ahold of jason, let the questions rip...every question will be answered and he will not just try to sell you parts...
call Maximum Motorsports and talk to jason...before you call, write down all the questions you want answered and once you get ahold of jason, let the questions rip...every question will be answered and he will not just try to sell you parts...
WERD
Go to the MM website and read up a bit the benefits. Then buy either MM or Griggs depending on the money you have to spend.
Shaolin Crane
Banned
Shaolin Crane
Banned
I talked to jason before I ordered all my stuff and he suggested the torque arm set-up for road race, especially in a high horsepower application. the problem with roadracing a 4 link is that the rearend can do things you dont want it to when going through turns making the car unpredictable.
The weak links in the rear factory 4-link are the control arms. Getting rid of the factory lowers with the squishy rubber bushings is the first step. If you replace them with lowers that have spherical bearings at one end e.g. MM, that'll reduce suspension bind and make cornering more predictable. You might even be able to get rid of the quad shocks at this point and still not have wheel hop upon launch.
You then could do coilovers and reduce unsprung weight but that doesn't address the real weakness which is now the factory uppers. The question then becomes what to do next? You could do:
1. Adjustable uppers with spherical bearings at the axle end e.g. Edelbrock as I did. You'd still have a 4-link but these will further reduce suspension bind and reduce lateral axle movement. Handling becomes more predictable with improved grip exiting corners and less risk of snap oversteer. You can also adjust pinion angle. A simple, cheap fix but there's better.
2. Watt link. You can do away with the upper control arms altogether and you now effectively have a 3-link. Excellent, neat, but you'll need a side exit exhaust 'cause there's no room for tailpipes.
3. Torque arm/Panhard bar. Also effectively a 3-link set-up, also excellent, but requires subframe connectors with crossmember to mount front end of torque arm. Adds a lot of weight, reduces ground clearance, and you need to modify the midpipe for clearance.
4. Steeda 5-link. A neat idea really. With the upper control arms now parallel to the lowers to control axle rotation and a panhard bar to prevent lateral movement.
You then could do coilovers and reduce unsprung weight but that doesn't address the real weakness which is now the factory uppers. The question then becomes what to do next? You could do:
1. Adjustable uppers with spherical bearings at the axle end e.g. Edelbrock as I did. You'd still have a 4-link but these will further reduce suspension bind and reduce lateral axle movement. Handling becomes more predictable with improved grip exiting corners and less risk of snap oversteer. You can also adjust pinion angle. A simple, cheap fix but there's better.
2. Watt link. You can do away with the upper control arms altogether and you now effectively have a 3-link. Excellent, neat, but you'll need a side exit exhaust 'cause there's no room for tailpipes.
3. Torque arm/Panhard bar. Also effectively a 3-link set-up, also excellent, but requires subframe connectors with crossmember to mount front end of torque arm. Adds a lot of weight, reduces ground clearance, and you need to modify the midpipe for clearance.
4. Steeda 5-link. A neat idea really. With the upper control arms now parallel to the lowers to control axle rotation and a panhard bar to prevent lateral movement.
I have MM extreme duty Rear lower control arms and pro-link uppers and they are spherical rod ends...pro-link have some really sweet control arms I can adjust my pinion angle and on the diff side I have different control arm mounting locations to change my instant center
So I have been thinking of adding a panhard bar. doe it help cornering control?
So I have been thinking of adding a panhard bar. doe it help cornering control?
