Pulling Car out of storage

My 67 mustang has been in storage for two years. I am pulling it out next week and I need to know what I should do to it. First it was put in there with less than a full tank of gas much less in fact. Think I will need to replace the fuel tank?

I know I need a new battery, that one is easy, should I flush or replace any lines? power steering, fuel, radiator? Any ideas would be helpful.

I'd also like an honest mechanic local to Los Angeles or Orange County Ca.
 
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It really depends on where the car was stored and what the humidity was in that area. If is was dry and warm (at least 50 degrees) then you may get lucky and just charge the battery and go. My '88 GT was not driven for 2 years and aside from a dead battery, it was fine when I retrieved it. Carbed cars are usually not so lucky, and generally require a good carb cleaning or rebuild. But that's cheap enough and not much of a hassle. I say check the fluids, charge the battery and see what happens. Keep a close eye on the oil pressure at first and drive carefully until it warms up and you make a few stops, but you should be fine if it was stored indoors.
 
It was stored in an underground garage in Long Beach, so it was a constant temp of 55-70 degrees and not too high humidity. So you think it is safe enough for me to just try starting it? I'm not going to blow it up if there has been any rust in the gas tank? Oil gauge is dead so maybe I should fix that first thing. Otherwise I will follow you and try starting it.
 
I'd bet anything it's fine. As far as the gas tank goes, about three years into the rebuild of my fastback, I was ready to start it and thought I'd better drain the tank. Usually old gas smells really strong and may even have gel in it. Mine had none of those even after three years! I ran the old gas through my lawnmower, but in retrospect I'm sure it would have been fine. Good luck!
 
When you start it up, let it run and keep an eye (and nose) on the engine. When I bought mine, my understanding was that it had been stored, but driven at times to a local cruise, for about 3 years.

Once it started, I could see and smell fuel and cut it off immediately. Fuel pump diaphragm was eroded.
 
here's my two cents, I've brought back half a dozen old motorcycles to life, couple old cars, and Mud Dog an old 302 engine (you can find that post on this forum), two years of sitting aint nothing

1. Check Oil with dip stick (oil is the life blood of the engine it lubricates) you are just making sure there is plenty there and it looks brown or black, either one is ok for now, as long as it does not look like a light brown milk shake or coffee with cream (that is bad means water in the oil, strongly doubt it)

2. Remove each spark plug one at a time so you know where it goes, squirt WD 40 using the red straw provided with each can inside the spark plug hole, that will lube up the dry pistons, piston rings, inside your cylinders, spray and count 5 aligators per squirt, it's ok the WD-40 will burn off, give it 30 minutes to soak in,

3. put the plugs back in carefully not to cross thread them, lightly tighten them do not over tighten, snap the spark plug wires back on make sure they are on right, check the coil wire that goes to the distributor cap press each wire down to make sure they did not come loose

4. get yourself one of those cheap clear tube with rubber ball gasoline pumps, it looks like the thing to test your blood pressure with and pump out all the old gasoline, you can use the old gas in a lawnmower, then poor a gallon of fresh brand new gasoline into the tank, don't wanna poor too much in, in case there is a problem with the gas tank and it needs to be removed (strongly doubt it)

5. take the radiator cap off and stick your finger in the coolant, is there water there, or is it dry as a bone, if dry add some water, water will be fine for now, if there's stuff there is it rusty looking or green like it's supposed to be

6. charge the batter overnight, test it with a volt meter, it should read around 13 volts (yes I know we call them 12 volt batteries, but each cell is like 2.2 volts and there's six cells) or do the poor man's test turn on the lights, do they go on, if it's daylight, beep the horn is it loud, turn on the windshield wipers do they work, turn on the radio does it play, etc, otherwise take it to an auto store to test it under load to be sure it is good, check the born on date sticker, I think it's in a month year format, anything older than 5 years can be toast even if you didn't use it

7. You may need to prime the carb, pump the gas pedal a few times, but not too much, if you smell gasoline in the engine compartment, you flooded it, don't panic, wait 15 minutes it will evaporate, don't pump the gas pedal again just try to start it, if that doesn't work, you can poor some gasoline inside a glass bottle, (it will disinigrate a plastic cup) remove the blue air cleaner off the carburetor, and poor a shot of gasoline inside the carb, try to start it

8. If it won't start but it is turning over, and it has a good battery, then you can clean the carb a bit with it on the engine, wearing safety glasses, squirt some carb cleaner into every crevice of the carb on the engine, take off a hose squirt some cleaner in there, be very careful it can come squirting back right in your face your eyes

ok, I am not saying you will have to do all these things, these are just some of the things you may want / need to do
 
It depends on your technical level with the motor but I would charge the battery, hook the motor to a fresh source of fuel, prime the oil pump and then set the timing and try to fire it up. You can buy an oil pump priming shaft that you hook up to a drill. This will keep you from scoring any cylinder walls since the engine hasn't run in quite some time. You might need to rebuild the carb as previously stated.
 
OK, so what I did was. Since the gas tank wasn't full while in storage, I just topped it off with fresh gas. Then I removed the Carb and rebuilt it. I tried bringing the battery home and charging it but it was toast, so I put in a new battery. I turned the key, it sputtered for a minute and after 30 seconds, it was idling fine and revving great. Been driving it without issue for six months now.

So rebuild carb: $55 for cleansers, rebuild kit, scouring pads, book on rebuilding carb, and 6-pack of red stripe to bribe my friend to use his shop.
Gas: 8 gallons: $500 (at least with gas prices it felt like that.) really $32
New Battery: $65 and has the original autolite look.
Oil Change: $20 for oil.

Useless bits: new car battery charger for old battery that ended up being completely dead: $20