TB Injection Install (Aces Killshot)

Change of plans with the fuel lines - I was having a b**ch of a time getting the rear lines to cooperate. So I ordered stainless braided PTFE lines to work with instead of attempting to get the hard lines bent and installed. I'm fairly certain that the main problem I'm having is lying on my back wtih maybe 8 inches of clearance to work. The new lines should be here tomorrow, so I'll be back at trying to get fuel lines ran.
 
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I got up and went straight outside this morning. Sorry, no pics, but the PTFE fuel lines are ran from the tank to the engine compartment. I stopped since it's supposed to start raining this afternoon and, given I'm still on the mend, I didn't want to feel rushed to take care of stuff if it started raining while I was still out there. Last I checked, the forecast called for rain for the next 5 days, but maybe there will be enough of a break in it that I can get out and get some more accomplished.
 
I spent a few hours working again today. It was a little cooler but the rain isn't supposed to restart until later this evening, so I jumped on the opportunity. Since I got the lines ran under the car I moved to under the hood. First order of business was removing the remaining fuel line and mechanical fuel pump, then installing the block off plate. I had to shorten the bolts that I had that mounted the pump, but that was pretty self explanatory.

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Then I had to decide where to mount the regulator. I decided to mount it on the firewall almost directly behind the carb pad. I had to rebend one of the brackets to make it work, once that was figured out and done I grabbed my punch and hammer to mark where the mounting holes would be located so the drill wouldn't walk. I went with rivets for the backet to firewall, then had to run out to grab some set screws and nuts to mount the regulator. The socket head cap screws that they supplied would prove to be too much of a PITA to install in this instance, but using set screws as studs made the job a lot easier.

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Once the regulator was in place I went ahead and connected the return line, then moved on to mounting the throttle body. I removed my existing carb studs since they were too long and went with the studs that they supplied. Once that was mounted I had to install the cable ball stud, but the 2 locations that are predrilled wouldn't work. Luckily there was a small hole in a location that would work, so I grabbed my drill and enlarged it and installed the ball stud.

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And this is where I called it quits. It's supposed to rain all through the weekend and into next week, so it may have to wait a while again.... :cautious:
 
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Progress is good and the T.B. looks great!
A couple of :ot: questions from your photos if you don't care? Do you have an oil cooler? And yours is the first intake I've seen with the heater hose coming off the back of the intake. Did you choose to plumb it that way or was there no front fitting? Just curious. You might want to put in a rubber grommet where the hose goes through the firewall.:O_o:
 
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Progress is good and the T.B. looks great!
A couple of :ot: questions from your photos if you don't care? Do you have an oil cooler? And yours is the first intake I've seen with the heater hose coming off the back of the intake. Did you choose to plumb it that way or was there no front fitting? Just curious. You might want to put in a rubber grommet where the hose goes through the firewall.:O_o:

To answer your questions:

1) Yes, I have an oil cooler that I'm seriously considering removing.

2) This intake has water inlets on the front and back. IIRC I had to cut some of that hose and made it just a little short to reach the front, so hooking it there made a lot more sense than tearing everything back apart to replace the hose.

3) Not necessarily a question, but yeah, I agree that I need to figure out how to incorporate some kind of grommets in various locations around the firewall. My car used to be an AC car that I deleted. The "new" airbox didn't have that stuff and I wasn't sure how to go about it at the time. I now wish I would've just kept the AC after moving from Iowa to Atlanta - it definitely would've been used more often! In all honesty, I think about finding another II with all of that stuff still intact to either swap it all back or just transplant everything from my car into. It's been >20 years since I had the body done and it shows.....
 
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I spent some time on this today again, although not enough on the actual project..... :shrug:

I read through the directions again about hooking the fuel pump up to power and the directions suggested using a relay for a pump that runs >15 amps. I couldn't find any definitive information on the pump that I have so I decided to play it safe and made a run to the McDonough Summit location and picked up a Painless relay kit. That endeavor took me about 3-1/2 - 4 hours. I started on that install when I got back home. I decided to mount the relay on the driver side near the access door in the back quarter trim and ran the wires to their appropriate locations. I also installed a small distribution block that I had laying around to try to clean up the engine bay a little more since I had a few different 12v sources all hooked at the solenoid. This is where I stopped for the day since my ankle is telling me to. :(

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Oh, and a gratuitous car pron pic just because! These will always be my #1 favorite!! :drool:


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I'm at another self-imposed impasse - I want to replace the self tapping screws that I used to mount the fuel tank straps with rivnuts and screws but I can't seem to find the proper drill size in my collection of drill bits. I searched online for somewhere local that I might be able to pick one up to no avail, so it's been ordered through Amazon and should be here tomorrow. I'll probably go back out there shortly to see about dropping the exhaust to install the second O2 sensor but I'm just not all that motivated at the moment..... :shrug:

On a semi-positive note, I had an ortho follow-up this morning and I'm cleared to go back to work in a couple weeks.
 
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Is there a way nuts could be welded on?

I'm sure there's a way, but I figured this would be a good use for rivnuts since I have the tool now. I used 2 button head cap screws on the passenger side through the spare tirewell as studs. I welded them in place today as well as installed the rivnuts on the driver side. I also buttoned up the fuel pump installation as well as installed an early Fox fuel level sender and swapped the plug ends to match. I was out there a good part of the day doing all of this and nearly got it all buttoned up. The only thing left is to re-mount the bumper, then it's on to installing the O2 sensor in the passenger side bank (driver side already has the O2 for my A/F gauge), then run the wire harness before I can try to fire it up. :D Too bad the forecast calls for rain again....

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I don't know if it has been mentioned yet, but T-Body EFI works best on a single plane intake manifold.
The cylinder to cylinder air/fuel is much more equal compared to a dual plane intake.
If you must stay with a dual plane intake, you should at the least put a 1" open spacer between the T-Body and the intake manifold.
That mitigates the distribution problem to some degree.
If this is just a part throttle cruiser, then it probably does not matter either way.
WOT, especially at higher RPM's really make the air/fuel issue a concern.
 
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I don't know if it has been mentioned yet, but T-Body EFI works best on a single plane intake manifold.
The cylinder to cylinder air/fuel is much more equal compared to a dual plane intake.
If you must stay with a dual plane intake, you should at the least put a 1" open spacer between the T-Body and the intake manifold.
That mitigates the distribution problem to some degree.
If this is just a part throttle cruiser, then it probably does not matter either way.
WOT, especially at higher RPM's really make the air/fuel issue a concern.


Yeah, that was something I looked into. I can't really install a spacer as there's not enough clearance between the scoop and the air cleaner the way it is. The good part of it all is that I milled the center divider when I bought the manifold. I called them and asked about it and they said it should give a good enough signal that I probably won't run into problems. :cross: I guess I can always pick up another manifold if it proves to be troublesome, OR I can try to swap back to the Offy 360 that I used to have on it as that's a split single plane with a milled divider. I guess time will tell.... :shrug:

https://flic.kr/p/EFNpj7
 
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Spent a good part of the afternoon dropping my exhaust, welding the new O2 sensor bung, then reinstalling the exhaust. 2 things: I really need to invest in a better welder AND shielding gas :cautious: - and I'm down to wiring everything and hooking up a couple fuel lines. With any luck, I may be firing it up this week! :cross: