351W build

[A5literMan]

OK here i go. Got a 351w (84 block) from a guy I work with. Its been bored.040 over,has forged pistons recon rods and crank and a mild hyd cam. Solid enough engine but i want to step it up a litttle. No power adders. I am going to use efi. What I/H/C combo should I look at? I was thinking AFR185s for heads. Suggestions???

 

[nibik91]

what are your goals? do a search for other combinations and builds.

 

[txstang84]

I'm with nibik...what are your goals? AFRs are great heads though...

 

[A5literMan]

I'd like to make 400-450hp to the wheels on 93oct. I still want to drive it on the street but it definately isn't a daily driver or anything. Just short trips to cruise nights,track,occasional hwy miles. All i can find for intakes are the tfs stuff or an Edelbrock victor intake. Do you have a preference? how about hyd roller cams? i read/heard the smaller base circle cams aren't the best idea, what retro-fit setup should i get? Thanks

 

[Rick 91GT]

I assume you want to stay EFI? Do the aftermaket pistons have notches to only fit a inline head or will they fit a TFS head as well? Do you know what pistons they are, flat tops, dish etc... so I can figure out compression, then I can make a few recommendations for you.

Stay away from reduced base circles, they are very limited with the profiles available.... So you need a linked lifter and reg 302/351W hyd roller.

Whats the budget?

 

[f8tlfiveo]

I am doing a 351w also. Is there a way to turn a non roller block into a roller block and use a "normal" roller cam. I didn't really want to do a small base circle cam either.. I have a 69 block though. As far as I know this is one of the stronger blocks.

 

[Rick 91GT]

Yes the 69 is so called the strongest factory block out but the deck height is slightly shorter in 69-70 at 9.48" (really important if you decided to stroke it!). All you need is linked roller lifters, if you need some or any other parts let me know...

 

[ID89GT]

I have a 74 block with a solid flat tap it setup.. I hate it. The 2 piece main is such a pain lol. And the cam I have is the wrong firing order so when I go to convert to EFI I would have to swap the cam out as well. The thing was rebuilt but still burns oil on hard acceleration. I know when I see a 94+ block I will be jumping on it. I missed a 427w short block brand new, just needed assembly on Craigslist for only 850

 

[txstang84]

So glad I never had issues with my 2 piece rms...

 

[vristang]

And the cam I have is the wrong firing order so when I go to convert to EFI I would have to swap the cam out as well.

Or tune via the ecu to change the firing order of the ecu...

 

[Rick 91GT]

A properly installed 2 pc rear seal will work just grear and is far less likely to leak...however if it ever does you have to pull off the pan and main cap which is not fun. There are some tricks to making it last

 

[ID89GT]

Mine sat for like 10 years so it leaked when I got it. When I pulled the motor I replaced the bottom piece but couldn't see how you could get the top half off without pulling the crank, and I didn't want to do that.. But then it leaked even worst than before lol. Oh well, Its the only oil leak on the car so not that big of a deal I guess..

 

[ID89GT]

Or tune via the ecu to change the firing order of the ecu...

That wouldn't be a bad idea either, but its just a cheap cam.. I think it cost like 90 bucks or something like that. At least that is what it says on the receipt for the engine rebuild. Its some Elgin brand, nothing fancy I imagine.

 

[txstang84]

If you're careful, and "sneaky" enough, you can walk the old one out with the new one, and just overlap the ends about 3/8"-1/2" so the end pieces aren't even with the main cap...but we're going off target here...OP-did you get some specs on the pistons?

 

[A5literMan]

If you're careful, and "sneaky" enough, you can walk the old one out with the new one, and just overlap the ends about 3/8"-1/2" so the end pieces aren't even with the main cap...but we're going off target here...OP-did you get some specs on the pistons?

I assume you want to stay EFI? Do the aftermaket pistons have notches to only fit a inline head or will they fit a TFS head as well? Do you know what pistons they are, flat tops, dish etc... so I can figure out compression, then I can make a few recommendations for you.

Stay away from reduced base circles, they are very limited with the profiles available.... So you need a linked lifter and reg 302/351W hyd roller.

Whats the budget?

Talked to the guy today. All he knows is the pistons are flattops. He had the moter build 4 years ago for his pickup and then last year he broke the frame offroading. I road in the truck a few times back then it had 70#press. and didnt use any oil. Been sitting in the truck in a barn since. I was going to pull it apart when I get it and see whats up. I have about $4500-5000 for the whole project including pan,headers,mounts,injectors-pump,heads,cam,intake,etc. Otherwise i'd just put a blower on the 302. It still runs well. I have a 75mmMas and 70mm throttle body will they be big enough? I guess i will have a little more $$$ if i sell my 5.0 also.

 

[A5literMan]

Talked to the guy today. All he knows is the pistons are flattops. He had the moter build 4 years ago for his pickup and then last year he broke the frame offroading. I road in the truck a few times back then it had 70#press. and didnt use any oil. Been sitting in the truck in a barn since. I was going to pull it apart when I get it and see whats up. I have about $4500-5000 for the whole project including pan,headers,mounts,injectors-pump,heads,cam,intake,etc. Otherwise i'd just put a blower on the 302. It still runs well. I have a 75mmMas and 70mm throttle body will they be big enough? I guess i will have a little more $$$ if i sell my 5.0 also.

Just got a call from co-worker. He talked to the "engine-builder" and found out they are sealed-power brand pistons. He est. they were 9-9.5:1cr with stock heads. not sure how reliable this info is though.

 

[txstang84]

Well, if you're gonna pull it apart anyway, get the part numbers from the pistons and either you can determine the CR from some of the available online calculators or get with Rick and I'm sure he could help you out