What are the best caster/camber plates for a mustang being that my vert is at the bottom as far as handling? What can new ones do for me?
Caster/camber plates
- Thread starter Jontue Harris
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If you haven't done anything to your car, CC plates offer no benefit. The purpose of a cc plate is to correct geometry after it has been altered beyond factory spec (typically as a result of lowering). If you intend to aggressively autocross/road race the car, then again, they can be of benefit, allowing your front end to be optimized for a better contact patch during hard cornering.
If none of this applies to you, then don't worry about a CC plate.
Mike is absolutely correct. 
If you are wanting to improve your 'vert's handling, I would do the following in this order.
1. Full-length subframe connectors.
2. K-member brace.
3. Lowering springs and a quality set of shocks and struts.
4. Caster/camber plates.
5. Performance alignment.
6. Aftermarket rear lower control arms.
If you are wanting to improve your 'vert's handling, I would do the following in this order.
1. Full-length subframe connectors.
2. K-member brace.
3. Lowering springs and a quality set of shocks and struts.
4. Caster/camber plates.
5. Performance alignment.
6. Aftermarket rear lower control arms.
Do yourself a favor: go look at your strut tops while a friend raises and lowers the front end with a jack. Look at how much the strut tops move thanks to the mushy rubber mounts. That's your alignment changing due to suspension loading, and it's not cool. Being able to set your alignment the way you want it, and keep it there, is the benefit of c/c plates, and you don't have to be an autocrosser or road racer to experience it.
That said, some c/c plates are better than others, for instance some raise the mounting point so if you ever lower the car, you get more bump travel, some are made from steel so they're less likely to bend, some come with great instructions, some combine all three features, and some aren't made by scabrous copycats.
That said, some c/c plates are better than others, for instance some raise the mounting point so if you ever lower the car, you get more bump travel, some are made from steel so they're less likely to bend, some come with great instructions, some combine all three features, and some aren't made by scabrous copycats.
If going coil overs then steel caster/camber plates are a MUST. The aluminum ones cannot take the loading form the coil over. If staying with the springs in the stock location, then the aluminum ones will work just fine.
What kind of control arms would you suggest..... C0mpany wise.........Mike is absolutely correct.
If you are wanting to improve your 'vert's handling, I would do the following in this order.
1. Full-length subframe connectors.
2. K-member brace.
3. Lowering springs and a quality set of shocks and struts.
4. Caster/camber plates.
5. Performance alignment.
6. Aftermarket rear lower control arms.
Mike is absolutely correct.
If you are wanting to improve your 'vert's handling, I would do the following in this order.
1. Full-length subframe connectors.
2. Aftermarket rear lower control arms and torque box reenforcement kit.
3. Caster/camber plates.
4. K-member.
5. Lowering springs and a quality set of shocks and struts.
6. Performance alignment.
Just what Wythors said but I changed the order a bit and added 2 items. IMO, it's better to have the caster/camber plates already installed before the k-member and lowering kit. That is, if you're doing things in steps and not all at once.
I also don't like the stock k-member (renforced or otherwise). If money is no object or you're doing things once at a time, I would replace the k-member with one that will accept the OEM A-arms.
For caster/camber plates, I like MM, Hotchkins, and Steeda in that order.
For K-member, I like MM and AJE.
For control arms, I like MM, Steeda, Griggs
On my vert I did Steeda CC plates, Steeda Aluminum LCA's, Steeda sport springs and Steeda bump steer kit and some sub-frames I picked up on ebay. KYB struts and shocks finished it off. I had the alignment shop set the camber set to about -1 deg or so (I hate my tires) and the car handled and did exactly what I wanted it to do. The oversteer (back end kicking out) was predictable and I didn't think the ride was overly harsh.
Some of these parts are not cheep but there is nothing saying you have to buy everything at once, make a plan and save your money for the best part for the plan you have.
Some of these parts are not cheep but there is nothing saying you have to buy everything at once, make a plan and save your money for the best part for the plan you have.
Sharad
ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?
Thanks. Our cc-plates are Made in America, they carry a Lifetime Guarantee, and they start at $117 with the Stangnet discount. CC-plates by themselves do improve the handling. The OEM strut bushings are so sloppy, they make steering feel vague. Good quality cc-plates like UPR's have spherical bushings which improve steering response and feel.
1989GtFoxBody
Member
Like others here have said indirectly, I would recommend Maximum Motorsports, as I have run a set on my dirt stock car for a couple years now without the slightest sign of fatigue, and they work great on the street car as well.
Cobra912
Active Member
couple of sets of upr ones, worked good
used hotchkis aluminum with coil overs and totally pooched them
used hotchkis aluminum with coil overs and totally pooched them
Mustanglimey
Active Member
Beasty306GT
Active Member
maximum motorsports are probably the highest quality ones you could buy..i have them with the coilovers and they are a top notch product
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