getting new suspension needs suggestions

[98stanggt22]

hey everybody,
im getting some new suspension within the next month and i need some input. i dont wanna waste my money on some new shocks, struts, and springs and my ride be harsh. i looked into it and what i came up with so far is either eibach or steeda lowering springs with a 1.25" to 1.5" drop which is the number i want 2" at the most. to go with that i found a nice price of $350 for two tokico HP series rear shocks and two front struts. a new set of caster chambers plates are required but with all this price is an issue i need the most bang for my $. does anyone know the quality of these tokico hp series shocks and struts. and along with that how about the lowering springs. and lastly, and suggestions for caster chamber plates? is that all i should get or is there anything i need to get to compensate for the 1.5" to 2" drop? thanks for the help

 

[sneaky98gt]

1. Tokico HP shocks/struts. Most people like them. I have them, and don't necessarily dislike them. But the car is a little on the harsh side with my Bullitt springs, which could be the cause. BUT, my granddad has an 04 Mach 1 with Eibach Pro-Kit springs and stock shocks/struts (which are also Tokicos), and it rides GREAT. Adjustable shocks/struts would be nice, but since you are a little low on cash, I wouldn't plan on getting a better set of shocks/struts for any less money.

2. Springs. The Eibach Pro-Kit is almost definitely what you want. The Steedas will not lower it as much as the Pro-Kit, and the Pro-Kit is a progressive spring (meaning it rides a lot better). The Pro-Kit by itself will lower the car 1.4-1.5 inches front and rear. You can get another quarter of an inch by leaving the isolators out (which is perfectly fine to do).

3. Castor/camber plates. It is up to you, but they are not necessarily necessary. I got a solid 1.3 inch drop from my Bullitt springs, and they were able to align it perfectly. My granddad's Mach 1 was able to get very close to perfect with his Eibach Pro-Kit. So long as you have a decent alignment shop, it shouldn't be a problem to get it pretty close.

 

[Bob2000GT]

On my 2000 GT I installed the Tokico HP shocks and struts, H&R progressive rate springs and the Maximum motorsports camber/castor plates. The car rides great, not rough, on the road and sticks like glue to the track during autocross events. I have had many positive remarks about the stance of the car and have no problems with normal speed bumps in parking lots. The camber castor plates worked great when I had the car aligned requiring no extra parts in the front suspension. Spend the little extra and get the polyurethane kit for the springs, it makes a big difference. I just added a front and rear eiboch sway bars and it is even better on the street. Haven't tried it on the track yet. There are many other possible combos out there, this one worked for me. Whatever you go with, it will look and perform much better when lowered.

 

[Maxpowers]

Keep in mind future plans for the car. You normally have to pick between Street/autocross and drag strip.

I have the Ford C Springs and Tokico blues. Ride is very nice, but just a touch too low for PA. Too many pot holes here.

 

[JoeDaddy]

I put Tokico HP shocks/struts on my 96, along with FRPP C springs. The car does ride rougher then stock now, but that is to be expected.

I did not get CC plates, and my alignment guy told me to watch the wear on my tires, as there was not enough adjustment to get it into spec. I plan on rotating my tires every 6000-8000 miles, and am not too worried about it, but if you buy expensive tires, the cc plates may save you some money in the long run. (My father in law works at a parts yard, and can get me some deals on tires...)

 

[aar0s]

Ive had steeda sports on my fox for years and love them, will probably put them on the 01 when the time comes. On the fox they lowered it about as far as id want to go, on the SN car it would be about right.
As for shocks, Ive used kyb in the past and they are ok for a stock upgrade but my next set will be Tokico.
If your wanting to drop 1.5'' to 2'' then you might want to look into a bumpsteer kit to keep the tie rod arms in line with the A arm.

 

[Maxpowers]

If your wanting to drop 1.5'' to 2'' then you might want to look into a bumpsteer kit to keep the tie rod arms in line with the A arm.

Not needed. Those kits are normally garbage anyways.

 

[Dark04GT]

Consider adding on a bumpsteer kit- it will nicely complement any drop by getting your steering mechanism back in line. O/w above comments are great. My ride is pretty rough with my setup but I have it dialed in that way.

 

[nine2oneGT]

I have a set of HP shocks and springs. I need to upgrade to a progressive spring cause the back sags a little. Recently put the Eibach sway bar kit, it handles really nice. Little stiff on rough potholes and speed bumps. So far they have been a great combination for street driving. I have a set of MM CC plates. I needed them to get the alignment right.

Who knows, maybe I will wait and get a set of coil overs and a tubular K member. Then I could just be done with the suspension.

 

[98stanggt22]

i really appreciate the feedback. so basically the tokico shocks and struts would go good with those eibach pro-kit for the springs and probably some nice cc to go along for the ride as well. i def am going to get a good alignment to save my tires and ensure for a good ride. i will look into the bumpsteer kit cus i do want my steering aligned as well. any input on some good cc for the right price. im looking to spend around $500 for springs, shocks and struts but i dont wanna go too much farther than that for the cc on top of that and possibly the bumpsteer kit. thanks for the feedback guys it will def help in my decision cus im a lil lost when it comes to suspension.

 

[98stanggt22]

and to add one more thing. my car is a daily driver and i also have to take into consideration that im adding a good 35-40lbs with the motor swap im doing. and speaking of that with my hood clearance issues, if i were to go with this combination, since the body of my car would lower, wouldnt i have more of an issue with putting the bigger motor in? it is roughly 7.5" taller than the stock gt engine and i am going to get something around a 3" cowl hood or maybe bigger if i have to but id rather not if possible. thanks again

 

[aar0s]

Not needed. Those kits are normally garbage anyways.

Granted that a car that is lowered just 1.5 would be "OK" without them Id still do it on a DD car. Garbage? ill disagree with you on that.

Dont skimp on the CC plates, the weight the strut is carrying is on them. Stick with Steeda or Maximum Motorsports on the CC plates and bumpsteers and you'll be fine. Steeda CC plates start at 199 and 209 from MM. BSK are 167 from steeda and 149 from MM

Ive been told that a guy can make his own BSK but I never bothered to do it, I bet google would help with that.

 

[JoeDaddy]

im looking to spend around $500 for springs, shocks and struts

http://www.americanmuscle.com/forac.html

FRPP C Springs - 180

http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustang-tokico-strut-94-04.html

Tokico Blues Front - 104 each

http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustang-tokico-shock-1994-04.html

Tokico Blues Rear- 70 each

http://www.americanmuscle.com/maximum-motorsports-caster-camber-plates-94-04.html

MM CC plates - 190

+ Labor (Unless your doing it yourself)
+ Alignment

Gotta pay if you wanna play, mang.

 

[N8Dogg98]

I've had the pro-kit on my car for over 5 years now w/o isolators and I don't have MM CC plates. I was able to get the car aligned fine and I have never had an issue with uneven tire wear. I speak from personal experience when I tell you the pro-kit doesn't require CC plates or a bumpsteer kit. Honestly as some have said you're wasting your money with these products. I've never noticed any bumpsteer despite over 70K miles while running the eibach pro-kit.

Just so we're clear, I'm not saying these products are chitty. Just saying they aren't necessary on a DD with a mild drop such as the pro-kit or c-springs.

Sometime down the line if you planned on getting your car set up to run autocross, then the CC plates and bump steer kit are something worth looking into. The main problem with the bump steer kits on a DD car is that they don't have dust boots on the end joint. Without a dust boot and a grease fitting these connections wear out much faster than a traditional tie-rod end w/ a dust boot and grease fitting would. Remember, with the MM or Steeda bump steer kit you'll get dirt, sand, and water in the joint on a very frequent basis.

Bumpsteer kit (notice the joint has no protective covering, and no option to apply grease):

Standard tie-rod end w/ grease fitting: