Prepping 88 Mustang Gt For Paint

[BB18]

hey guys, ive got a few questions and concerns im hopeing you guys can help me out with! im currently starting to sand my car (88 gt) and mock it up for paint. some of my main concerns are how i should go about sanding my car because the guy before me decided to spray paint it... also if i should paint the car in pieces or all together. thanks for the replies in advanced

 

[Mishimoto]

Can you tell how the PO prepped it for his rattle can job? Is there the factory color under the sprayed color? What are you going to used for sanding? What grit did you start sanding with? Why are you thinking of painting the car in pieces?

 

[91TwighlightGT]

I would remove the rattle can job. You will probably have to prime it and then paint it.

It is okay to do in pieces. I would remove the GFX either way. Those should be painted with a flex agent in the primer and clear, too.

 

[RacEoHolic330]

Just some advice. If you paint in pieces, paint the ground effects last and put them back on the car within a few days of being painted. The flexibilizer loses its ability to flex over time, so if you wait weeks/months and try to bend the side skirts back into place, the finish may crack.

 

[BB18]

It looks like there is a factory white underneath the spray paint. I'm pretty sure he didn't prep it at all because it's flaking on the hood and you can see the white coming through on the sides. As for why I was thinking of painting it apart is because I was always under the impression that it is a better paint job but ive read that with pearls (car is getting painted Cadillac white gold pearl) that it won't match if sprayed in pieces. As for sanding i haven't started yet because i don't have a clue what grit to use haha

 

[jmast]

I am a painter by trade and been doing it for about 20 years. There are many techniques and different schools of thought, so I'll just give you my take. First off, the spray can paint has to go. If you're doing a color change you will also need to paint the jams, which adds alot to the process. I start by scrubbing the car with a scotch bright pad (green) and some scouring powder. This will remove any grease, oil, and silicon. Sanding depends on what tools you have to work with. If you have an air compressor, use a dual action sander with 180-220 grit sand paper. No air, you will want to wet sand by hand using 220-320 grit. Don't try to dry sand by hand, you'll be there for ever because the paper will gum up quick. Water provides a lubricant and keeps the paper clean. When wet sanding, use a soft block for a smooth finish. Definitely prime the car and wet sand that to remove imperfections. Using a guide coat will help you see the imperfections as you sand. I can explain this if you need. You should also consider what type of paint is currently on the car and what type of paint you're going to apply. If they don't match, your top-coat will react with whats underneath creating problems in you finish. If your not sure, then I recommend using a sealer over the exsisting paint. This is a long and tedious process and I commend you for attempting it. Just make sure your prepared, there is a reason not many people to this work. If you're in it, I'll help you out with any advice I can.

 

[BB18]

I wanna start off by saying thanks a lot jmast for the willingness to help me out I really appreciate it, it's pretty hard being 19 and trying to do this all haha not a lot of body work knowledge. But as for the car I have a guy who I did engine work for that is a corvette warranty painter so I know he is good. We decided to spray it that white gold pearl. He told me that all I have to do is sand the car and he will do the rest, prime it align it all that stuff. I don't have an air sander but I can get my hands on an electric orbital sander, would that work? With it use the 180-220? And what is your take on spraying it in pieces compared to together? He says it has to be together for the pearls thanks again!

 

[jmast]

I would not recommend an orbital sander, it will leave a swirled and gouged surface. The dual action sander is what is needed here to prep a smooth surface. Alot of what you do in the prep will show in your paint. Stay away from the jitterbug as well. In a pinch though, you could do it manually with water and some wet/dry sand paper. Wrap it around a soft block or even a new scotch bright pad. Reason being, using just the paper can leave grooves where your fingers apply pressure. I'd start with 320. If it's doesn't cut well, up the grit to 280 or even 220. I usually grab a hose with the water on trickle, just enough to keep my surface wet. You can also use a spray bottle or a thick sponge repeatedly dipped in water. Wet sanding does take some time, but could be completed in a weekend. Painting is easy (relatively speaking). The prep is what really makes or breaks your paint job. Don't cut corners here cause you'll regret it later. Put some music on, turn your brain off for a while, and go to town. Spraying it in pieces is a matter of preference, really, and the complexity of the area you are painting. The key here is, especially with custom colors mixes or additives, is to spray it at the same time, with the same paint mix. Sometimes it's easier to spray in pieces, sometimes not. But not one way is necessarily better than the other.

 

[BB18]

I was just worried that I would see some black come through on the edges and stuff like that so I wanted it apart. But is there special paper to wet sand it? Or would any sandpaper work?

 

[91TwighlightGT]

Get a decent quality wet or dry sandpaper. 3M is good, and sold at Auto parts stores. It will say wet or dry, don't get it unless it says that or your paper will fall apart with the water.

 

[jmast]

No problem taking it apart if you want. Grab a couple of fender stands from harbor freight, there like 20 bucks or so. These make life much easier when sanding removed doors, fenders, etc. The sand paper has to be wet/dry sandpaper and is usually gray. It will say wet/dry on the back. You can get it at any local autoparts store. I like O'reilly cause they sell pro grade supplies in bulk. On that note, it is a little pricier, but I use 3M products almost exclusively. Just about everything they sell for paint and body prep is top notch. I have used alot of different brands but haven't found one that matched up yet. Remember, paint and body is an art form. Take your time and use the right supplies. Also, here's a tip for sanding. move the block in straight lines, no circles. Sand in a cross pattern like ////// then \\\\\\ so you end up with XXXXX. Keeps the surface smooth and even and cuts through the paint faster

 

[BB18]

Thanks guys! I got a ton of sanding discs and a pad from the painter now just picking up a D/A sander and starting. But that leads into the next thing, what white to paint it haha what do you guys think of the cadillac white gold pearl? And the Lexus glacier frost mica? I'm stuck between them

 

[bcam347]

pearl white is for girls....