Mustang Wiring Guru?

Kenny Kline

Member
Jul 1, 2012
36
0
6
Laying out the harness, making repairs, trying to figure out where everything goes. I have most of it figured out, just not sure of a few plugs. (keep in mind I am deleting egr, smog, evap, etc. having an SCT chip burned to ignore these codes)

Not sure what this is or where it goes but its on the O2 sensor part of the harness:

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Next is a few wires that have no plugs, just bare ends. These wires come right out with the ignition coil plug. Not sure where or what these wires are for:

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Not really sure what this thing is or where it goes or if I even need it...

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And here is the whole harness. Looks to be complete.

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After searching, I found a 93 harness and it looks like the 4 wires next to ignition coil plug are could be: A/C clutch 2 pin connector (black/yellow and black/white), EEC ground, 20 gauge fusible link to starter relay. So in the pic the 2 tires tied in a not are A/C, the stripped blue copper wire is the ground and the fusible link wire goes to starter relay
 
Removing the pollution control equipment from a 5.0 Mustang is a bad idea. All you have accomplished is to make the computer mad and spit codes. The pollution control equipment all shuts off at wide open throttle, so the HP losses from it on the car are 2-5 HP. The catalytic converters may soak a few more HP than that. None of the pollution control equipment reduces the HP enough to cost you a race in anything but professional drag strip competition. I seriously doubt that you will be in the final runoff on “Pinks”, so leave the smog equipment in place and make sure it is working correctly.

Know what does what before removing it. Remove or disable the wrong thing and the computer sets the check engine light and runs in "limp mode". Limp mode means reduced power and fuel economy.

Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by James Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

It's about $20-$45 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select books and then select search. Use the ISBN number (without dashes or spaces) to do a search

Use the ISBN number and your local library can get you a loaner copy for free. Only thing is you are limited to keeping the book for two weeks. It is very good, and I found it to be very helpful.


If you removed the smog pump and still have catalytic converters, they will ultimately clog and fail.

Remove any of the equipment and you will not pass a full smog check, cannot title the car in an area that does smog checks and have broken several federal laws. Granted that the Feds are short on people to check cars, but it is still Federal law.


Charcoal canister plumbing - one 3/8" tube from the bottom of the upper manifold to the rubber hose. Rubber hose connects to one side of the canister solenoid valve. Other side of the solenoid valve connects to one side of the canister. The other side of the canister connects to a rubber hose that connects to a line that goes all the way back to the gas tank. There is an electrical connector coming from the passenger side injector harness near #1 injector that plugs into the canister solenoid valve. It's purpose is to vent the gas tank. The solenoid valve opens at cruse to provide some extra fuel. The canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.

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It does not weigh but a pound or so and helps richen up the cruse mixture. It draws no HP & keeps the car from smelling like gasoline in a closed garage. So with all these good things and no bad ones, why not hook it up & use it?


The purge valve solenoid connector is a dangling wire that is near the ECT sensor and oil filler on the passenger side rocker cover. The actual solenoid valve is down next to the carbon canister. There is about 12"-16" of wire that runs parallel to the canister vent hose that comes off the bottom side of the upper intake manifold. That hose connects one port of the solenoid valve; the other port connects to the carbon canister.

The purge valve solenoid should be available at your local auto parts store.

Purge valve solenoid:
6



The carbon canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.
Carbon Canister:
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LOL I am here to identify some wiring and plug ends. Nothing more, nothing less. I tried to keep it simple with pictures and specific questions but leave it to the forums to go off topic in rants about stuff that has nothing to do with me. If you read the first post as in post 1, 28 words into my introduction, the chip is being burned to IGNORE these things. And I am not removing these parts, they have already been removed. I bought the car with no emission stuff in it. This just happens to be the only emission part I have, a simple 6" wire with solenoid on it.

Learn to read before you lecture somebody. Youre wasting your time. Hopefully it didnt take to long to type all that.

LIMP MODE FTW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! dumbass
 
LOL I am here to identify some wiring and plug ends. Nothing more, nothing less. I tried to keep it simple with pictures and specific questions but leave it to the forums to go off topic in rants about stuff that has nothing to do with me. If you read the first post as in post 1, 28 words into my introduction, the chip is being burned to IGNORE these things. And I am not removing these parts, they have already been removed. I bought the car with no emission stuff in it. This just happens to be the only emission part I have, a simple 6" wire with solenoid on it.

Learn to read before you lecture somebody. Youre wasting your time. Hopefully it didnt take to long to type all that.

LIMP MODE FTW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! dumbass
You don't like the answer, you could just pass over it. Keep in mind that you posted in a PUBLIC forum, not in your own private backyard.

And calling JRichker a dumbass only tells all of us how much of a dumbass you are.


Here's a suggestion moron... buy a haynes manual that has a wiring diagram in it and get out a multi-meter for continuity checks.
Since it's a used harness, you should be doing that anyway...
Better yet... take your dumbass to google and find one of the dozens of mustang wiring diagrams available for free... oh, nevermind... that would actually take some independent thought on your part... better to post the question and be spoon fed the answer.


Best of luck to you
 
You are deleting the low oil sensor, yet jricher is the dumbass?

While I don't share his love of emissions equipment, he is certainly one of most helpful and electrically educated members.

You may not want to insult the only guy here that could help you get out of the mess you seem to be creating.
 
You don't like the answer, you could just pass over it. Keep in mind that you posted in a PUBLIC forum, not in your own private backyard.

And calling JRichker a dumbass only tells all of us how much of a dumbass you are.


Here's a suggestion moron... buy a haynes manual that has a wiring diagram in it and get out a multi-meter for continuity checks.
Since it's a used harness, you should be doing that anyway...
Better yet... take your dumbass to google and find one of the dozens of mustang wiring diagrams available for free... oh, nevermind... that would actually take some independent thought on your part... better to post the question and be spoon fed the answer.


Best of luck to you

I read your suggestion and it sucks! A Haynes manual? LOL. Alldata, mitchells and identifix is a much better resource wouldnt you think? I dont like using google, i use yahoo search engines. I already found plenty of harness wiring schematics and have already narrowed it down and answered my own question and posted the answer in post 9, was just looking for confirmation even though im pretty sure I am right. As far as being independent and asking to be spoon fed, lol thats a funny simple minded contradicting statement seen as how I searched and posted the answer already and have built this car from pieces to what it is now with not having any other question other than this post. But I will let you tell the story.
 
You are deleting the low oil sensor, yet jricher is the dumbass?

While I don't share his love of emissions equipment, he is certainly one of most helpful and electrically educated members.

You may not want to insult the only guy here that could help you get out of the mess you seem to be creating.

Yes I am deleting it. It serves no purpose other than telling you when your oil is low. How many cars have this feature? I can tell you none of mine ever had it and thats as new as 2008. Why do I need it now? DELETE! but dont go contradicting yourself saying im a dumbass for removing it when its very possible you drive a car every day that doesnt have one ;)

Im not creating a mess. Im fixing a mess and im almost done without the help of anyone other than this thread asking for some plug end descriptions. Dont need a lesson on how emission stuff works and how im hurting the car. Thats a simple minded prediction not knowing my setup.