Got The Car Dyno'd Today

[Mattstang04]

I put the ProCharger on back in 2011. It made 370 rwhp and 390 ft/lbs. That was with a P1sc Stage II tuner kit and a 3.6 inch pulley. I decided to do a new round of mods over the past year, adding Bassani Mid Length Headers, 78mm BBK Throttle Body and Plenum, a JMS Powermax Booster, and a 3.4 inch ProCharger pulley.

After going to the dyno last week and finding that my JMS Powermax Booster was failing, I left without any forward progress. I replaced the JMS the next day and the new one operated correctly. $200 net loss in dyno time.

Today's dyno results are 391 rwhp, 413 ft/lbs of torque, and the peak horse power moved from 5300 rpm to 4500 rpm. I don't have the boost level from the original setup but these new figures are at 12 psi of boost. :trip:

I'm kind of surprised I didn't make the 400 rwhp mark but none the less the car is healthy, running strong and the tune is on the safe side.

Aside from a catback, I am done with power mods on this car for a while. The catback is stock with weld in Flowmasters, so its not really performance I am looking for but a decent sound and nice looking tips.

Overall, I'm happy with what I got. I'm also happy to not have to lay on the cold concrete of the garage floor for a while. Time for beers...many, many beers.

 

[Deleted member 38176]

Nice numbers. If peak HP is really coming on that quick, that must haul the mail!

I cant wait to see what mine puts down with a 3.0" pulley and P/P heads....

 

[Mattstang04]

Actually, I just looked at the graph again. It looks more like 5700 down to 5200 rpm but still, its pretty cool.

 

[72 fastback]

Is that on the stock block?
nice numbers!

 

[sneaky98gt]

Very nice! It's a little harder to hit 400 than it seems, isn't it? Lots of people act like it's super easy to do on a stock 2-valve top end, but it actually takes some work to do it on a legitimate dyno (or trap speeds at the track).

With the way the torque line is kinda jagged up above 5000 rpm, I'd guess the AF ratio and/or spark timing could be worked on a bit more to get some more power out of it and get that peak back up a bit if you wanted every last horsepower out of it. BUT, I bet tuner has it pulling a little timing up top to keep it safe (which is a good idea at that power level), and that's why the peak dropped a little bit.

Either way, the peak is still high enough that the shift point is dictated by the stock bottom end and stock valvetrain (around 6000 rpm), and not the power curve.

 

[Mattstang04]

Still running the stock block with about 112xxx on the odometer. She's no spring chicken. The tuner did run it on the safe side per my request. He also said that if I wanted to flatten out the curve a bit more I would likely need an improved intake manifold (not going to happen). I happy with where it is but it would have been nice to cross that 4xx rwhp threshold. I'm going to put a proper cat back on it and figure that its close enough for my 400 rwhp aspirations.

All that aside, the car runs like a champ. It's consistent and reliable. I wouldn't have a reservation about driving cross country at the drop of a hat. This power level should keep me out in front of new SS's, GTs, RTs or SRT8s in stock form. That's a good feeling . I actually asked my tuner what the current coyotes are putting down to the wheels in stock form, he said around 360 to 370 rwhp. The weight difference counts for a lot too.

I'm just surprised that I could make the thing do what it does. I've worked in a lot of parts stores before changing to my current career path but I have no formal automotive mechanic training. Just been fiddling with me and my friends vehicles since about 1997... and I am currently faster than all of them. Tee hee.

 

[Deleted member 38176]

What kind of timing are you running?

 

[Mattstang04]

I couldn't say. The tuner set it up and I never asked him what it was set to. I haven't even thought about timing since the last time I owned a distributor car. I may call him up next week and ask him about that, though.

 

[Thatsweetstang]

I have a few questions how is it for DD? Does boost gently come in or does it hit hard like a turbo? If you could, would you do it again but with a kennebell? I've been thinking about piecing together a vortec kit but instant boost from a kb sounds like a lot of fun.

 

[Deleted member 38176]

I have a few questions how is it for DD? Does boost gently come in or does it hit hard like a turbo? If you could, would you do it again but with a kennebell? I've been thinking about piecing together a vortec kit but instant boost from a kb sounds like a lot of fun.

I DD mine. I should have over 500rwhp (although I haven't dyno'd just yet). Boost doesn't hit until around 3000rp or so. Tame city driving and it feels "stockish" (very forgiving and easy on gas). However, be aggressive and it turns into a freakin' rocket. I love giving people rides, making them feel "safe" while driving like a girl, then making them scream when I get into it.

I had only rode in/driven positive displacement blower cars (Kenne Bell) before and had no experience in a centri car. Honestly, the only reason I went with a centri was because I came across an AWESOME deal on a used kit. I will never EVER go back to a pos. dis. blower. The centri just amazing. Think of it this way, centri has all of the benefits of a turbo and pos/ dis. blower with none of the drawbacks. They make awesome power like a turbo (not quite as much) but don't have the lag of a turbo. They make decent power down low like pos. dis. blowers do (also not as much) but doesn't fall on it face in the higher RPMs. Centri's out-perform positive displacement blowers in every category except maybe 0-60 (although I go from 0-60 pretty fuggin fast!)

 

[Thatsweetstang]

I know either one I choose I will have a blast. The only reason why I've been considering the pos dis blower is because I only work 7 miles away from my house and I never travel. So I was thinking I could use the low rpm grunt. Watching my shifting habits I never really go above 3000rpm. But on the other hand I get bored using 2 gears and then going strait to 5th, and I've been considering 4.10's with a vortec so I can have some fun. So many decisions and combos, I wish I had money and at a minimum of 5 mustangs.

 

[tonydalrymple]

Nice combo that I'm sure is a hoot to drive every day!

 

[72 fastback]

I got about 90,000 miles on my 02 gt at the moment. A couple of years ago I had a 2.1 kenne bell intercooled installed on it. IT is bone stock right down to the exhuast. It makes about 350 rwh and about 400 rwft. I am still using the kenne bell tune on it. I recently had it on a mustang dyno and it made 303 rwh and 322 rwft. I may do a flowmaster 50 series cat back exhaust. It is quite the sleeper right now. I brought it to a dyno event and no one knew it even had a blower on it until the hood open. Everyone was like That CAR Got A Blower on it. lol!

 

[sneaky98gt]

I actually asked my tuner what the current coyotes are putting down to the wheels in stock form, he said around 360 to 370 rwhp. The weight difference counts for a lot too.

Don't be fooled, those cars will surprise you if you aren't on your toes. They are less than 200 pounds heaver, have better transmission gearing, and a pretty wide powerband up top in the RPM range (which counts for a lot in a race). In stock form, you should have them by a few tenths in the 1/4, but a tune and cold air intake is all it would take for them to show you the tail lights. Trust me; been there, done that. Haha

I had only rode in/driven positive displacement blower cars (Kenne Bell) before and had no experience in a centri car. Honestly, the only reason I went with a centri was because I came across an AWESOME deal on a used kit. I will never EVER go back to a pos. dis. blower. The centri just amazing. Think of it this way, centri has all of the benefits of a turbo and pos/ dis. blower with none of the drawbacks. They make awesome power like a turbo (not quite as much) but don't have the lag of a turbo. They make decent power down low like pos. dis. blowers do (also not as much) but doesn't fall on it face in the higher RPMs. Centri's out-perform positive displacement blowers in every category except maybe 0-60 (although I go from 0-60 pretty fuggin fast!)

Both are fun in their own right. BUT, on a street car, in my opinion, it is tough to beat the low end torque of a roots-type blower. A ported Eaton or TVS blower will literally make torque off idle (unlike twin-screw blowers that don't make full torque until the 2500 rpm range). Kicking the tires over in 3rd gear....at 1500 rpm...is a freaking blast, I don't care who you are. Haha. And if you want to talk about pure "how fast is it", there are several Cobras in the 8s on a itty bitty 2.3 TVS, and stock 281 displacement. I think we'll all agree that if you want a dyno queen that makes 1200+ horsepower, or a TX2K14 car doing roll races starting at 100+ mph, then yea, a centri (or turbo) is going to be a better option. But if you're looking for a run-of-the-mill Mustang making sub-600 horsepower, either type of blower will do that just fine, and which one we use is simply a matter of preference.

I will say this, though. The number of fast centri cars I see at the track is very small. Tons of Cobras and GT500s going fast on PD blowers, good number of N2O cars going fast, see some turbo street cars bookin' along, and lots of NA Coyotes going fast, but I rarely see ANY centri-blown cars of any sort running faster than mid-high 12s. Not saying that that's proof that they are inferior or anything, but I certainly don't see as many of them.

 

[Mattstang04]

It really is a matter of preference. I wanted to keep the car close to stock street manner on the low end of the rpm range. I don't really burn rubber or run people light to light in town. I like to stretch the gears out on the interstate and only rarely make passes at the drag strip. I like my centri but I also like my dads 02 Lightning. It is hard to drive that truck without grinning ear to ear. The wine of the blower is cool and that thing just goes like its azz is on fire.

The boost comes on around 3000 to 3500 hundred and it comes on pretty quick. I like to feel it out by being a little slow with the gas pedal but if you just hammer down, once the boost starts, the thing absolutely screams its guts out. The entire interior of the car starts to buzz and all you hear is exhaust pipes.

I don't regret this centri build one bit. However, I will be turning some of my efforts toward making dad's Eaton Lightning a bit more powerful. They really are two different animals though. I find when driving the Lightning, I have a hard time not blipping the throttle to listen to the blower or just feel it immediately press you back in the seat. In my car, I stay reserved until there is adequate runway then let it melt my face in the top end. Either way, you cant go wrong. Do you want to scream in the top end with a centi or roar in the low end with a positive displacement? As long as its does what it does reliably I'm all for it.

 

[superstang01]

Is it just me or do those number seem a little low? My car made 405rwhp at 5500 running out of fuel at about 10 psi


With 11 psi my car easily made 425rwhp and 444rwtq and my car is tuned very safe. This is also on a dynojet.

 

[sneaky98gt]

Is it just me or do those number seem a little low? My car made 405rwhp at 5500 running out of fuel at about 10 psi


With 11 psi my car easily made 425rwhp and 444rwtq and my car is tuned very safe. This is also on a dynojet.

Different dynos, different setups, and different atmospheric conditions will change things. I've seen a newer GT500 make 740 rwhp on one dyno on one day, and then the next day on a different dyno but same weather and same correction make 680. My car made all of 360 rwhp the last time on the dyno, yet traps 117+ mph at full weight. Trap speed at the track, along with the corresponding density altitude and race weight, tell the real story.

What correction was put on your numbers? SAE, STD, or uncorrected?

 

[superstang01]

Different dynos, different setups, and different atmospheric conditions will change things. I've seen a newer GT500 make 740 rwhp on one dyno on one day, and then the next day on a different dyno but same weather and same correction make 680. My car made all of 360 rwhp the last time on the dyno, yet traps 117+ mph at full weight. Trap speed at the track, along with the corresponding density altitude and race weight, tell the real story.

What correction was put on your numbers? SAE, STD, or uncorrected?

STD. This was in 83f temps with 55% humidity




What is the difference in the corrections? I feel like learning something new lol

 

[Mattstang04]

Some additional info about the two runs listed at the bottom of the dyno graph. Red lines were run at 61.96 degrees F, with 6% humidity, 29.77 in Hg, SAE 0.96. The old run in blue was at 69.28 degrees F, with 6% humidity, 29.6 in-Hg, SAE 0.98. What does this mean for my numbers?

 

[sneaky98gt]

STD. This was in 83f temps with 55% humidity

What is the difference in the corrections? I feel like learning something new lol

Some additional info about the two runs listed at the bottom of the dyno graph. Red lines were run at 61.96 degrees F, with 6% humidity, 29.77 in Hg, SAE 0.96. The old run in blue was at 69.28 degrees F, with 6% humidity, 29.6 in-Hg, SAE 0.98. What does this mean for my numbers?

SAE and STD are just methods for correcting your actual, uncorrected numbers to a standard value. This is so that you can [somewhat] accurately compare different dyno pulls in different atmospheric conditions. This isn't always 100% accurate, though, as a car may actually gain more or less power for a given condition than the correction factor allows. My car, for example, is much more sensitive to temperature than the correction allows; therefore, it'll put down higher corrected numbers at lower temps than it would at higher temps.

If memory serves me correctly, SAE corrects to 29.25 inches of pressure, 77 degrees F, and 0 % humidity. STD corrects to 29.92 inches, 62 degrees, and 0 % humidity. Because most all cars will make more power at the higher pressure and lower temperature of the STD standard values, they are always higher. Normally around 3% IIRC.

Mattstang, that 0.96 SAE factor simply means your numbers were multiplied by .96 to correct to the SAE standard values. So your uncorrected numbers would have been 391/.96 and 413/.96, or 407 and 430. Your STD numbers would be about 391*1.03 and 413*1.03, or 403 and 425.

Superstang, that means your numbers in SAE would be about 425*.97 and 444*.97, or 412 and 431. So y'all's SAE numbers are 21 horsepower and 18 torques difference.