No Start Condition - Need Help

Just got done putting a new BARO sensor on, I'm reading 150Hz now and still not starting.

Code 22 and 24 are gone now. But now I'm throwing code 18 and my trouble code book is rather vague as to what that code is for.

The engine will run about 30 seconds on starting fluid, then starts popping and dies. Also any throttle actuation while it's running on staring fluid kills the engine.
 
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Just got done putting a new BARO sensor on, I'm reading 150Hz now and still not starting.

Code 22 and 24 are gone now. But now I'm throwing code 18 and my trouble code book is rather vague as to what that code is for.The engine will run about 30 seconds on starting fluid, then starts popping and dies. Also any throttle actuation while it's running on staring fluid kills the engine.

That is a symptom of no fuel delivery or no injector pulse.

Go back to the checklist , items 1 B & 5A
"1-B.) PIP sensor in distributor. The PIP sensor supplies the timing pulse to trigger the TFI and injectors. A failing PIP sensor will sometimes let the engine start if the SPOUT is removed. See paragraph 5A – Using a noid light will tell if the PIP is working by flashing when the engine is cranking."

5-A.) The PIP sensor in the distributor tells the computer when to fire the injectors. A failing PIP sensor will sometimes let the engine start if the SPOUT is removed.
A noid light available from any auto parts store, is one way to test the injector circuit to see if the injectors are firing. The noid light plugs into the fuel injector harness in place of any easily accessible injector. Plug it in and try to start the engine: it will flash if the injector is firing.

I like to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. I hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too.


Code 18 - SPOUT out or wiring fault - look for short to ground in SPOUT wiring going
back to the computer. Possible bad TFI or defective 22 K resistor in the IDM wiring.

Use a timing light to check the timing: remove the SPOUT and observe that the timing retards at least 4 degrees. Put the SPOUT back in place and observe that the spark advances at least 4 degrees.
This code can disable spark advance and reduce power and fuel economy.

Remove the passenger side kick panel and disconnect the computer connector.
There is a 10 MM bolt that holds it in place.
Disconnect the TFI module connector from the TFI and the measure the resistance between the yellow/lt green wire and ground.
You should see greater than 100 K (100000) ohms.
Check the resistance from Pin 4 on the computer connector (dark green/yellow) and the dark green/yellow wire on the TFI connector. You should see 20-24 K Ohms (20,000-24,0000 ohms). The resistor is located in the wiring harness about 6” from the connector. You will need solder and heat shrink to replace the resistor if it is bad.
Next measure the resistance between the yellow/lt green wire on the TFI module connector and Pin 36 on the computer connector. With the SPOUT plug in place, you should see less than 2 ohms.

The following is a view from the computer side of the computer connector.
eec04.gif


This diagram is the wire side of the computer connector.
a9x-series-computer-connector-wire-side-view-gif.gif


Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif
 
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That's pretty close to what I said.... Lol.
Looks like fine rust particles, must have came out of the old tank. I'm guessing the the new fuel pumps flow dislodged it from somewhere in the fuel lines.
Now for cleaning the fuel lines and new injectors and maybe fuel rails.