Paint and Body Fox Body Painting 101

Don't praise Dave to much- he gets a swelled head-gets half drunk on craft beer and sits smugly in his chair and doesn't update his threads......

lol just kidding Dave :)
I'm not updating my thread cause I haven't done anything Chris.

Gonna though.

Remember me talking about getting a hatch, front bumper and a rear bumper? Well, this Friday I'm finally going to pick them up. Takes away the regular spending money. I will buy my p-clips for my brake lines, that's all I'll be able to afford:cry:. Poor me! It's almost going to effect my beer budget!:eek: Almost.......

In the mean time I'll get the rear end modified and assemble it.
 
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I'm not updating my thread cause I haven't done anything Chris.

Gonna though.

Remember me talking about getting a hatch, front bumper and a rear bumper? Well, this Friday I'm finally going to pick them up. Takes away the regular spending money. I will buy my p-clips for my brake lines, that's all I'll be able to afford:cry:. Poor me! It's almost going to effect my beer budget!:eek: Almost.......

In the mean time I'll get the rear end modified and assemble it.

With all this down time waiting for the hatch and such-time that could be put towards mocking up/mounting @90sickfox 's blower on dobys power plant :)

All kidding aside Dave, you are years ahead of me progress wise and it's only been what-6/8 months? Lol my car is going on two years and is still in pieces on the garage floor
 
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With all this down time waiting for the hatch and such-time that could be put towards mocking up/mounting @90sickfox 's blower on dobys power plant :)

All kidding aside Dave, you are years ahead of me progress wise and it's only been what-6/8 months? Lol my car is going on two years and is still in pieces on the garage floor
I've been posting for six months.....
 
Ok, back to paint and body stuff.

I got a hatch for my '86 GT from a salvage yard, here it is:
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First thing to do, especially if it's bad dirty, is to wash it. This one isn't, so next thing is to tear down the panel (disassemble). This part obviously has a wiring harness in it and a spoiler, along with tag lights.

Before you tear down your new panel, take pictures of where wires are routed and where plugs and clips go.

During the tear down, don't be in a rush. Be gentle taking out plugs and nuts and the sort. Have a container to put everything you took off the panel in to. On my hatch, two of the nuts were frozen onto the bolts that attach to the spoiler. I sprayed WD40 on these first after I had removed the plugs from the underside. Even then, they didn't break free. I removed all the nuts that would come off first, then I turned these frozen ones to remove the spoiler from the bolt. They are threaded into the spoiler.
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You will want to do these last simply because you'll strip out the spoiler's attachment hole if the spoiler can't move away from the bolt. You can see one of the holes that one of the frozen bolts was attached to in the upper right of the picture.

Once I removed the spoiler and the tag lights, I labeled the different wiring harness' with tape on what they go to. Then I pulled out those two harness' from the left side access hole and labeled and disconnected them from the main harness that runs up the left side of the panel. Then I removed them after I disconnected the ground wires.
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You will need to remove the left ball shock mount to remove the wiring harness from the hatch, then you fiddle with the harness until it comes out. It's not very difficult.
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Be sure to disconnect the ground wire for the rear window defogger and mark that wire with tape and pen.
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With the wires out of the way it's much easier to remove the lock cylinder. Just drill out the rivet holding the cylinder retaining bracket and pop the bracket off. The lock cylinder slides out and Tada! I've disassembled the inside of the tailgate.

Turn the gate over and use a moulding removal tool to take off the trim around the window.
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The tool just pries out the clip enough to slip it off. Be very gentle with these mouldings if you want to reuse them, they bend up real easy. Bright side, they can be straightened relatively easy if you're patient.

Last thing is the glass, I'm taking it down to our glass guy on Tuesday to have him take it out. I've done several favors for him so he'll do it for nothing. You can remove your own glass if you like, and I might have done it myself except this hatch isn't mounted to the car. It would have taken more patience than I cared to exert to do this off the car.

Time to really inspect your part without any dangling crap in the way. I used a knotted wire wheel on a four inch grinder to remove the old seam sealer so I could see all along the inner panel. As you can see, the lower right inside panel has rotted through.
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I'll repair this by replacing the metal with a comparable gauge clean metal.
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I'll continue on this tomorrow when I do the repair itself.
 
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Time to cut out the rot.

First thing I did is cut out and shape a strip of the metal and beat it into the desired shape using the existing panel as the template:
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Then I cut out the three spot welds in the lip area:
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I rolled the lip of the outer panel off of the edge of the rotted area
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I used my new piece to draw a line to cut out the rust and used a die grinder to cut it all out:
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I cleaned up the rust on the backside of the outer panel and tack welded in the new metal:
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Finally, I finished tack welding around the perimeter, ground down the welds and roll the lip back over the edge and tack welded it back at the three cut out spot weld areas.

You'll have to trust me, I did what I said there. The photo won't download for some unknown reason.

I finished for today by spraying the backside with a rust protectant paint.

I'll mud it once I have the glass pulled on Tuesday.

Fair warning if you have a similar problem, when you roll back the outer panel lip, it will cause denting on the edge of the panel on the outside. I knew this would be the case, but this is the best hatch I could get, so I had to fix it.

The repair on the outside is fairly easy to fix, we'll cover that repair this coming week.
 
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Dave this ones for you . Worked In a body shop for 2 years . Mainly mechanical work but I did a fair amount of prep . Buddy of mine was ready to paint so I helped do his garage up then prep the car including masking it , cleaning it with prepsall and tack ragging it . Car is an 85 coupe . Shaved the bay , replaced the right rear section of roof , and shaved gas door with mini tub all in this garage followed by. A 10 pt bar . This was car completely down to bare metal . There was minimal filler used on this whole car . All the stuff was lead filled where things were shaved and repaired .

Gonna be a street car with a Toyota 2jz and a 6speed . Anyway on to the good stuff . PPG GLOBAL base and PPG concept clear . 3 coats of clear . Car was blocked yesterday and 2 more coats applied . Picture show a slight haze due to the plastic on the garage roof and walls . Once we removed it it was like glass . Orange peel is minimal . Hope you enjoy the pics bud . Color is 2013 mustang sterling grey metallic for all who wonder. No flake added just the way the code calls for it .

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Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
 
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Dave this ones for you . Worked In a body shop for 2 years . Mainly mechanical work but I did a fair amount of prep . Buddy of mine was ready to paint so I helped do his garage up then prep the car including masking it , cleaning it with prepsall and tack ragging it . Car is an 85 coupe . Shaved the bay , replaced the right rear section of roof , and shaved gas door with mini tub all in this garage followed by. A 10 pt bar . This was car completely down to bare metal . There was minimal filler used on this whole car . All the stuff was lead filled where things were shaved and repaired .

Gonna be a street car with a Toyota 2jz and a 6speed . Anyway on to the good stuff . PPG GLOBAL base and PPG concept clear . 3 coats of clear . Car was blocked yesterday and 2 more coats applied . Picture show a slight haze due to the plastic on the garage roof and walls . Once we removed it it was like glass . Orange peel is minimal . Hope you enjoy the pics bud .

0ef8d443c43259c8f7fe5b09a05a3674.jpg

23af23bb1803faedade1091ab0d43908.jpg

4ea47123b8f6cb29e17a7eb2a2e8366e.jpg

523f99cc081ef8b55d3095de611f0842.jpg

088ca9923157e3004ea2fe3d64f24aac.jpg

9c32503c041d19f930cb0c156c2e2d5d.jpg

8b6690c86354a92b13f19884ffaf8ef6.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
Very pretty man, Looks like a very cool build. Full mini-tub then (meaning you removed the spare tire well and put in the c/o bar)?

That's what I used to do for higher end paint jobs. Three coats of clear, block it out and reclear. Amazing what that does for a smooth paint job.

Kind of hoping it'll be something like that for mike's car. I've always been able to lay out a single stage nicely. Now that he's sanding his down with 800, it should turn out real slick.

Show pictures of it unmasked, I want to see the cage and tubbing.

Good job buddy!:nice:

BTW, I love those Scott Rod panels.
 
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Very pretty man, Looks like a very cool build. Full mini-tub then (meaning you removed the spare tire well and put in the c/o bar)?

That's what I used to do for higher end paint jobs. Three coats of clear, block it out and reclear. Amazing what that does for a smooth paint job.

Kind of hoping it'll be something like that for mike's car. I've always been able to lay out a single stage nicely. Now that he's sanding his down with 800, it should turn out real slick.

Show pictures of it unmasked, I want to see the cage and tubbing.

Good job buddy!:nice:

BTW, I love those Scott Rod panels.
Yes full mini tub has an anti roll bar in it . I have more somewhere but that should get the jist of it . Also posted the body in bare metal pic .
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Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
 
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Dave, you and guys like madmike and the like amaze me. It's an artwork what you do making run down cars look so good. I envy your patience and skill. I wish I had the time to learn what you do. Like mike with the Gila Monster thread,.... come here and spend the time to share it all, thanks.... dont know what else to say
 
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Dave, you and guys like madmike and the like amaze me. It's an artwork what you making run down cars look so good. I envy your patience and skill. I wish I had the time to learn what you do. Like mike with the Gila Monster thread,.... come here and spend the time to share it all, thanks.... dont know what else to say
Nice of you to say man. Will you be going to mustang week next year?

Maryland isn't too far from myrtle beach, Mike says he wants to go with the monster. It'd be nice to see some of you east coast guys and your rides.
 
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Ok, refresher picture of where I started.
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I took the hatch to work today to get the glass pulled. I figured out it has a butyl rope to seal it to the hatch. Got it myself by cutting it lightly with a putty knife and finished pushing it out by hand. The glass, despite looking horrible is cleaning up very nicely. I'm quite pleased, I could reuse it if I want to.
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The butyl sealer used stays soft, even after 30 years. It's a little messy to get out. Start wherever you chose, but slice into to it down to the metal, then use a screwdriver or plastic stick to push along the edge as you pull it up and back, doing this seems to be the best way to remove the sealer without leaving too much left to clean up.

Once I had it out, it was time to strip off the old paint, There were a few spots that had been repaired before, I sanded all that out so I could start with bare metal.
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I will begin the bondo work tomorrow. It's real important to take your time at this stage and slowly feel every square inch of the panel, you'll want to find all the dents. Lay your hand flat and slide it over the panel with light pressure. Don't move your hand too fast because you won't register the small dents that can be there. If you go too slow, the larger ones won't be noticed because of the more gradual dip in those. Make sure you hand and the panel are completely dry when doing this. I close my eyes during this stage so I can focus on the feel of the panel, don't know if this will help you because I might be crazy.:crazy:

I'll take pictures of the bondo work as I do it. The panel was stripped with 80 grit da sandpaper and my more aggressive DA. I will use my die grinder over the areas I will mud to give the bondo deeper scoring to adhere to.

AND, all of this without a beer in my hand, it was a little scary for a moment or two...:eek:
 
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