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I have the Kumho MX's with Cobra 2k R's. Rears are 295/35 and fronts are 265/35. Great tire for the money. They look good and have good dry and wet traction.

I pretty much agree with all of your points, but there are a few things that might be questionable. I'm not too sure that the slots and holes will reduce your affective braking area enough to say that you've in affect gone from an 11" rotor to a 10" rotor. But I get your point. However, it is...

Those are all very good points 01BlkGT. However, the reason I am even considering these rotors is their price. There are definitly other rotors out there that I know more about, but they cost 3-4 times as much as these. My car only sees street duty (this heavy vert will never see a road...

Anyone else?

My thoughts too.

Need may be questionable, but the car has 104k miles, so I'd prefer to purchase new rotors instead of having the stock ones turned. The primary reason I'm asking about Grip Force is the cost. There are certainly numerous other brands (FRPP, PowerSlot, etc.), but these caught my eye due to...

Has anyone ever heard of them? See the link below for a deal they have on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7965964855&category=33564&sspagename=WDVW Basically, front and rear (11" and 10") rotors, drilled and slotted for $135. That seems about 1/2...

Is there a separate light for the passenger side, or is there just a single light for both?

Nope. No one has tried to steal it. I could have pinched a wire, but I doubt it. I think something I did triggered the light, and it just needs to be reset. The problem is that I don't know how to reset it.

anyone?

Can someone please help with clearing/resetting the air bag light. Here's the background. I changed my heater core last, and in the process, had to unbolt the steering shaft from the column (not to mention all the other work needed to do that PIA job). Now the air bag light stays on at all...

As Turbo said, if they only pull codes (i.e. no visual test and no sniffer), then you will pass with mil elims (b/c there won't be any trips stored on the computer).

What everyone has said is true. However, if you can still change your order, I would suggest considering 265's on the front and 285's or 295's on the back. The narrower tire in the front will help with road walking and if you're gonna stagger tire sizes, you might as well put the widest tire...

I recommend getting Blizzak LM22 snow tires. I just put them on my wife's 350Z. It went from undriveable, to very confident in the snow.

The stock block should be good for the hp range you are considering. I personally would go with forged internals (without the stroker kit) and a KB, or other, blower.

I thought 99+ v6's had the 8.8?

Will it be carb'd, or fuel injected? If fuel injected, you'll need a new harness and computer (which will also mess up your gauges). I'm not sure about motor mounts, maybe someone else can chime in. Is there a reason your friend wants to go with a 351 (i.e. does he already have one)? A 4V...

The 5sp machs have the some forged cranks that cobra engines have. The auto machs do not have a forged crank and also have a slightly lower redline. None of the 4v motors (except for the '03 cobras) have forged pistons or rods. These are the limiting factors with forced induction on these motors.