17x9's rubbing strut

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You really need to know the backspacing on the 17X9" Rim. I have 4 lug cobra R rims and I have 17X8 in the front and 17X9 in the back. The 17X9's will not fit on the fronts properly without a spacer.
I had some new tires put on and they switched them by accident, I was turning around after a mile to go back and get them switched back.
 
can anyone tell me what size wheel spacer ill need to get the clearance? :shrug:
It depends on your exact setup. Also, as you push the wheel out, you're going to have problems with the fender lip and the possibility of the fender lip hitting/cutting the tire if/when the front bottoms out (like a speed bump, or bad pot hole).

There are a lot of variables. The exact rim, the exact tire, your camber settings, your springs, added/reduced weight up front (3-core rad - more weight, alum heads - less weight), and so on.

If you need bigger spacers, makes sure you get hub-centric spaces. Get them at MM (Maximum Motorsports). You can not get very thin hub-centric wheel spaces - the tolerances (Ford) and dimensions don't allow for it. Basically, get MM spacers, and the you'll get the right type.

Still, as I said, you may end up with fender/tire interference.

IMHO, 92 & 93 Stangs are about the only foxes that car "kinda/sorta" fit 17x9's up front. As I remember, the k-frame FCA mounting points moved a little at that time also. I forget when Ford last moved the strut tower top mounting points in the Foxes. I think it's 91. Oh yea, if you don't have CC plates, you'll likely need them. Again, get MM.


Last, PLEASE, after it's all set, jack up the front wheel from the under the ball joint (BOTH left and right, they differ!), and turn the wheel lock to lock and check the rubber brake line to make sure it's not hitting the rim!

If the brake line hits the tire or rim, then the best solution is to move the bracket that the hard line ends at, and the rubber line mounts to. For my tight *ss '86, besides moving the brackets, I also had to use metal clamps to keep the "rubber" hose from hitting the wheel. I also put fuel line over the SS line as an indication if I ever have rubbing between the rim/tire and the brake line.
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BTW: The two wimpy jacks under the FCA are used to align/hold the FCA into the k-frame. :) The spring is compressed with the Ford/OTC spring tool. You want light and easy to manipulate jacks while aligning the FCA. That's better then the brute force - "slam the ******* in there and who gives a rat's *ss that it bends the k-frame mounting ears and FCA bushing mounting edges" method. :)