1970 351C carb

dbdragracing

Member
Dec 1, 2004
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I have a 1970 Mustang Mach 1 with a 351C 4v and a C-6. The engine is basicaly stock, but for some reason Im always having trouble out of the Holley carb (even after a rebuild by a carb guy). Could someone please direct me to a bolt on carb that will work on my car with very little effort? Links would be great. Thanks.
 
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Replace the points and condenser with a Pertronix I or II, Crane Xr-1 or any other electronic module. These modules replace both in the stock distributor and take 15 minutes to install. Usually just two wires to the coil from the distributor. Also replace the stock coil with a hotter one that matches the module. Once you've done that, it'll start easier and run 100% better. Tune ups last forever it seems too. I've got a Crane Xr-1 on the roller 5.0 in my 89 Ranger and haven't tuned it up in 2-3 years. Lat time I went to change the plugs they still looked like new. I can start it without pumping the gas pedal and it'll idle on it's own with no choke in 25* weather.
 
i have a mallory unlite conversion in my stock dizzy on the stang and it's been on the car since around 1990 or so and i've had almost no problems with it in all that time. i also have the accel points eliminator kit fr my cougar that i haven't installed yet and it is the exact same kit as the mallory unilite only it's yellow instead of red....go figure. anyway the accel kit can be had on ebay for about 35 bucks or so which is the least expensive way to get rid of your points. add a good coil like an accel super stock or mallor hy-fire or MSD blaster coil and you're set. a nice bonus of running an electronic ignition like this is that you can open the plug gaps up a little and/or run a colder plug too.

i'm not saying that your problem is not with the carb and lies all with the ignition system but a better ignition system certainly can't hurt.

you never said which holley carb you had either. is it a 600, 650, 750 with mechanical or vacuum secondaries? for a 351c with a c6 i'd go with either a 600 or 650 with vacuum secondaries.

i'm running a 625 road demon on my 351w with mild speed pro cam and hedman shorty headers with around 9.0:1 compression and it works very well and doesn't need near as much fussing with as any holley i've ever owned but for dead nuts reliability right out of the box you just can't beat a carter/edelbrock carb. my old 600 casrter was only carb i've ever had that all i had to was adjust the idle mixture after i bought it and never had to mess with anything else after that other than an occasional re-adjustment of the idle mixture about every 8 months to a year or so.
 
i have a mallory unlite conversion in my stock dizzy on the stang and it's been on the car since around 1990 or so and i've had almost no problems with it in all that time. i also have the accel points eliminator kit fr my cougar that i haven't installed yet and it is the exact same kit as the mallory unilite only it's yellow instead of red....go figure. anyway the accel kit can be had on ebay for about 35 bucks or so which is the least expensive way to get rid of your points. add a good coil like an accel super stock or mallor hy-fire or MSD blaster coil and you're set. a nice bonus of running an electronic ignition like this is that you can open the plug gaps up a little and/or run a colder plug too.

i'm not saying that your problem is not with the carb and lies all with the ignition system but a better ignition system certainly can't hurt.

you never said which holley carb you had either. is it a 600, 650, 750 with mechanical or vacuum secondaries? for a 351c with a c6 i'd go with either a 600 or 650 with vacuum secondaries.

i'm running a 625 road demon on my 351w with mild speed pro cam and hedman shorty headers with around 9.0:1 compression and it works very well and doesn't need near as much fussing with as any holley i've ever owned but for dead nuts reliability right out of the box you just can't beat a carter/edelbrock carb. my old 600 casrter was only carb i've ever had that all i had to was adjust the idle mixture after i bought it and never had to mess with anything else after that other than an occasional re-adjustment of the idle mixture about every 8 months to a year or so.

:nice: All good points made here. The biggest reason to get the points replaced with an electronic module is to eliminate the ignition as a possible cause in thinking the carb is the problem.
 
Thanks for the help guys...so the only stuff I need to buy for the ignition is the points eliminator kit and a new coil? I looked at SummitRacing and they had different models of the points eliminator kit...do you happen to know the model number? My carb is a Holley 600 w/ vacum secondaries. Thanks.
 
all ford V8's with single points use the same kit for whichever kit you decide to use, accel, mallory, pertronix, crane, etc, they will only have one parts number for 57-74 ford v8's (dual points may make a difference, not sure though)
 
Get whatever coil Accel recommends for it. Not all coils are the same, some work with points and electronic conversion modules, some work with full electronic only (like a Duraspark ignition), some work with both. Can't go wrong using the coil Accel tells you to go with. That way if something does happen to the module, they can't blame it on their coil. As for the Dual points conversion, those used a different module, the mounting points being the difference between single and dual points on Fords.
 
Pull the distributor cap and see if there is one set or two sets of points.


if it has vacuum advance, it's not a dual point, at least on stock ford dizzies anyway.

i've been using a stock replacement coil with my unilite but i bought an accel super stock coil for the accel kit i bought for the cougar.

also make DARN SURE you use a good ground when you hook the module up, otherwise you'll fry it. i like the adjusting screw on the coil bracket, that way you can easily see all three wires to the coil any time you look at the coil. also i believe the directions will tell you to run an external resistor, DO NOT use one because there is already a resistance wire (the infamous pink wire) in the stock wiring to the distributor and you will have too much resistance with an external resistor resulting in the car being hard to start......ask me how i know.

i think that about covers the "stuff to wacth out for" using the accel or mallory unilite kits.
 
The 71 Boss 351 and the 72 HO 351C both had a dual diaphram-dual point distributor. And there was a dual point conversion kit from Ford to convert a single point Cleveland distributor to dual point. Better check the points, there's no telling at this point in time what you've got now.
 
The 71 Boss 351 and the 72 HO 351C both had a dual diaphram-dual point distributor. And there was a dual point conversion kit from Ford to convert a single point Cleveland distributor to dual point. Better check the points, there's no telling at this point in time what you've got now.



i was not aware that the boss 351 and HO had dual points and vacuum advance, thanks for the correction.

also, on the dual point conversions from Ford every one i've ever seen did away with the vacuum advance, i believe you, i've just never seen one.