I bought a 1980 notch back shell a few weeks ago. PO was going to make it a circle track car and removed everything. I'm going to build it to run autocross and occasional trips to the drag strip. It has to be street legal, because I've sold my car hauler and larger trucks. It doesn't have to look great and I don't want it to sit in the garage for years. Budget build w/upgrades as needed and money allows. So far I've purchased front hubs, rotors, and rear axle from a '95 GT to start the five lug conversion. I need wheels and tires so I can roll it in/out of the garage. I like the black steel 10 hole design, so I was thinking about a set of '06 and up Crown Vic wheels. 17 x 7.5. I believe I read on here that 17 x 8 would be the largest I could run w/the extra width of the SN95 rear. Is that correct?
Progress Thread 1980 Notch build - autocross w/occasional trips to the drags
- Thread starter Beagle Bones
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I use 18x9" +30 offset American Muscle FR500 rims on my 1992 GT with an SN95 Cobra rear axle. My rear fenders aren't rolled, cut or flared, and I still use quad-shocks. I've had no issues with my 245/40/18 tires rubbing on an autocross course. Having said that, no two Fox Body Mustangs are the same. LMR has good descriptions on their website for their rims. They often include fitment options/warnings.
You can also use www.willtheyfit.com to determine where your new rims will sit compared to your old rims.
For autocross, a square setup is better than a staggered setup. A staggered setup adds understeer to a car that already has a tendency to understeer.
I have a lot of autocross information (including budget autocross tips) on my YT channel: https://www.youtube.com/@warhorseracing/videos
I'm happy to answer any questions you might have about setting your car up for autocross.
You can also use www.willtheyfit.com to determine where your new rims will sit compared to your old rims.
For autocross, a square setup is better than a staggered setup. A staggered setup adds understeer to a car that already has a tendency to understeer.
I have a lot of autocross information (including budget autocross tips) on my YT channel: https://www.youtube.com/@warhorseracing/videos
I'm happy to answer any questions you might have about setting your car up for autocross.
You have likely heard or over heard (meaning too many times) this question but, have you considered a Cobra IRS conversion?
Actually, I just wanted to post this video of my wife, in another universe (the one where I'm rich, famous, and handsome), explaining the benefits of an IRS.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7YoxrKa4f0&ab_channel=FilmBlast
Actually, I just wanted to post this video of my wife, in another universe (the one where I'm rich, famous, and handsome), explaining the benefits of an IRS.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7YoxrKa4f0&ab_channel=FilmBlast
Both of my SN95 Mustang autocross cars have been converted to IRS. The IRS is great (when properly modified), but it's hard to get all of the weak links out with a budget build. You can make an SRA Mustang handle much better than stock on a budget. Having heard the debate for many, many years, I decided to make this video:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2H3kC_SZk4I&t
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2H3kC_SZk4I&t
I have had it in the back of my mind to look for a side by side comparison video. It's one of those things I never think about when I sit down.
@Warhorse Racing
I'll be checking out your other vids too. The solution I'm looking for is purely street but I want [good] street. So, something between OEM and the full race you got going. The bonus is that even comparing the two means that the IRS is worth talking about, is a good omen.
I'll be checking out your other vids too. The solution I'm looking for is purely street but I want [good] street. So, something between OEM and the full race you got going. The bonus is that even comparing the two means that the IRS is worth talking about, is a good omen.
I've never been able to drive one of my SRA cars against one of my IRS cars on the same course, but I've competed against and driven a lot of SRA and IRS Mustangs. I'm sure many people will disagree with me, but I think it all comes down to driving.
I appreciate you checking out my videos. My cars are actually not fully-prepped for CAM-T (It's a pretty open class in terms of mods). None of the cars in my results videos currently use coil-overs or aftermarket K-members. One of my reasons for creating my channel was to show people what these cars can do without those mods. There are definitely inexpensive ways to eliminate the weak links and fundamentally change the personality of the car without turning it into a race car. If you have any questions, please ask.
While i'm not opposed to an IRS swap, i don't think it fits into budget orientated.
It's not a setup you can grow into a couple parts at a time. You are in or you are out.
Limiting wheel choices doesn't help either.
Wheel hop (which can be addressed) is also very destructive at the drag strip especially with IRS axles (not so much with SRA axles).
Using Maximum Motorsports or Griggs rear setups allow you to add a part at a time when your budget allows. None of them are all that difficult to install or require removing parts you have already installed.
Back a bunch of years ago someone (i think on SVTperformance) did a full cost comparison of building up an SRA and IRS.
The price if i remember was similar.
If it were me doing both strip and road racing? I'd do the solid rear axle.
It's not a setup you can grow into a couple parts at a time. You are in or you are out.
Limiting wheel choices doesn't help either.
Wheel hop (which can be addressed) is also very destructive at the drag strip especially with IRS axles (not so much with SRA axles).
Using Maximum Motorsports or Griggs rear setups allow you to add a part at a time when your budget allows. None of them are all that difficult to install or require removing parts you have already installed.
Back a bunch of years ago someone (i think on SVTperformance) did a full cost comparison of building up an SRA and IRS.
The price if i remember was similar.
If it were me doing both strip and road racing? I'd do the solid rear axle.
Working on the rear axle this week. It came equipped w/Acura wheels, 2" spacers, and spline lug nuts. First time seeing those, and I'd already damaged two before going to the parts house w/a sample. The spline lug nut socket proved to be useless at this point. So I got out the welder and welded a nut to the end of both lug nuts. First lug nut came off easily after the weld. The second wasn't compliant. Next up were the grinder and sawzall. 2 hours later and the last wheel was finally off.
Attachments
I have the rear '95 8.8 ready to go in. I bought a set of used 17" GT wheels & tires last weekend, and pulled the original 7.5 last night. The next few weeks are going to be boring, I need to address some surface rust w/everything out of the way.
However, I do have a question. One of my factory (hard line) fuel lines is damaged beyond repair. I'm having a hard time sourcing it aftermarket. I'm not opposed to replacing w/braided line, but securing it may be an issue.
However, I do have a question. One of my factory (hard line) fuel lines is damaged beyond repair. I'm having a hard time sourcing it aftermarket. I'm not opposed to replacing w/braided line, but securing it may be an issue.
Attachments
Depending on which section is broke, you might be able to find it over at www.latemodelrestoration.com
Make sure you look at years one up and one down. Some of them crossed.
And you could always cut, bend, and flare your own:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CzQEcVFmvWY
Make sure you look at years one up and one down. Some of them crossed.
And you could always cut, bend, and flare your own:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CzQEcVFmvWY
So after removing the stock fuel lines on my car and installing AN6 lines for the feed and return lines I will tell you that you should just bite the bullet and ditch the factory lines and move to the teflon braided lines. If you shop it you can replace everything for under $600 (last time I checked) and you will have a far superior fuel system capable of feeding a lot of hp and super reliable.
As far as induction on the motor are you going carbed, factory style injection or aftermarket injection? That will also play a part in how you set the fuel system up. 79 through April of 1981 have the first generation of fuel tanks (12ish gallon) and then April 1981 -1993 have the second generation of fuel tanks (15ish gallons). 79-85 are carbureted cars and 86-93 are fuel injected so the pickups in the tanks are different. 79-86 sending units are 73 ohms empty and 10 ohms full where 87-93 sending units are 22 ohms empty and 145 ohms full.
If you are going to use the factory style injection the you will need to switch to the later EFI tank and you will need a sending unit from an EFI 83 to 86. CFI, turbo, and SEFI cars all have the correct sending unit. I have heard you will need to either modify the spare tire wheel well to clear the newer tank or massage the tank and you will need to use the newer tank straps and one of them has to move a little bit. This should come up in a Google search pretty quick as its been done a few time.
Good video on tank differences:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hjl172ggFEQ&t=12s
As far as induction on the motor are you going carbed, factory style injection or aftermarket injection? That will also play a part in how you set the fuel system up. 79 through April of 1981 have the first generation of fuel tanks (12ish gallon) and then April 1981 -1993 have the second generation of fuel tanks (15ish gallons). 79-85 are carbureted cars and 86-93 are fuel injected so the pickups in the tanks are different. 79-86 sending units are 73 ohms empty and 10 ohms full where 87-93 sending units are 22 ohms empty and 145 ohms full.
If you are going to use the factory style injection the you will need to switch to the later EFI tank and you will need a sending unit from an EFI 83 to 86. CFI, turbo, and SEFI cars all have the correct sending unit. I have heard you will need to either modify the spare tire wheel well to clear the newer tank or massage the tank and you will need to use the newer tank straps and one of them has to move a little bit. This should come up in a Google search pretty quick as its been done a few time.
Good video on tank differences:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hjl172ggFEQ&t=12s
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Thank you for the information Aerocoupe! That will be really helpful when it comes time.
I got the rear axle under the car. New factory style upper control arms, & the factory lowers that came w/the '95 rear axle. I installed new FPP M-5300-C springs & the SVE urethane isolator kit. I bought a set of used wheels w/235/45/17's. The rear of the car looks too tall now. I'm not married to these tires. Do I need to run the urethane bushings?
I got the rear axle under the car. New factory style upper control arms, & the factory lowers that came w/the '95 rear axle. I installed new FPP M-5300-C springs & the SVE urethane isolator kit. I bought a set of used wheels w/235/45/17's. The rear of the car looks too tall now. I'm not married to these tires. Do I need to run the urethane bushings?
The tires aren't your problem. They are actually a tad on the shorter side.
Could be the car is not full weight also it would be a problem if you tightened up the control arms with the rear axle hanging.
If you are asking if you should replace the factory control arm bushings with urethane, that would be a firm no.
I'd buy new control arms before i would go anywhere near that project.
Could be the car is not full weight also it would be a problem if you tightened up the control arms with the rear axle hanging.
If you are asking if you should replace the factory control arm bushings with urethane, that would be a firm no.
I'd buy new control arms before i would go anywhere near that project.
The car is definitely light. Interior is removed, etc. All of the control arm bolts are loose. I replaced the worn axle bushings w/factory style replacements, and the upper control arm are new factory repop units from LMR. The lower arms are factory original, as I haven't decided on a replacement yet. My question involves the need for the urethane bushings on both ends of the springs. If I recall, there was only a rubber bushing on one of the spring, top maybe??
