1987 Ford Mustang 2.3L R12 to R134A conversion. Recommended way of draining old system and oil?

The add on air conditioning kits, like dealer installed or ARA air, all have low side hoses that are hose clamped
One side only usually
Some early ones even had clamps on the high side
That's also why both the high side and low side test ports are right there on the hoses too, and not a manifold like all the factory stuff
 
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I'm not an expert on 2.3's but the big change was in 1991 when Ford went to the dual plug head and wasted spart DIS so some of the brackety and such may have changed. For the most part 87-90 is mostly the same.

With used A/C parts, it's hit or miss if they are serviceable. All depends on how long they have been open and exposed and how much crud has gotten in. At a minimun I would perform a flush on the parts. I would also buy a new liquid line with the orifice as flushing this will just drive crud into the orifice. Looking at RockAuto.com i see the various lines aren't all that expensive ($30 or so each) so given the time/cost of flushing lines, it may be worth it to get new.

Compressors are expensive. Might be worth taking a look at a used one if it's clean. Can be opened and rebuilt if you'd like.

Condensor and evap i would either flush the ones you have or buy new. I wouldn't risk used parts. Too much risk of damage/pinhole.
 
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I'm Attempting to get a list together of everything I need for the job. I added part numbers and photos below for those who may have to do the same thing I am. I still still need the A/c Mounting bracket, tensioner, belt, and O-ring kit. Is there anything I am missing on the list that I may be missing if I were to do this job with new everything?

I'm going to check out the compressor tonight that was off of the stripped vehicle and see how it looks. If the compressor needs a rebuild and is the correct style I need, happen to know where the best place online to order a rebuild kit from? I've rebuilt a few starters and alternators in my day, so I think I can take on the task of doing a rebuild on my own if I can source the parts.

A/C Compressor Factory Version - GPD 6511750
Condenser - Agility 7013554
Evap - GPD 4711366
A/C Refrigerant hose w/ orfice tube w/ Factory air - Four Season 5560
A/C Drier with Manifold hoses (Likes Mustang5l5's) - GPD 4811402
Condenser to Evap Line - GPD 4811396
6511750-1.jpg
7013554.jpg
4711366-1.jpg
4811402-1.jpg
55650.jpg
4811396-1.jpg
 
Looks like the 2.3L uses the same 6P148A compressor as the v8. (possibly with different mounting orientation)

If so i have a whole thread on rebuilding these, with parts.


Post 172 has latest parts i used for the last rebuild I did

San Tech MT2140 is the rebuild kit. Got a kit off ebay.
GPD 1311262 is the shaft seal. I got this kit off rockauto.
 
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Thank you for that information. No luck on a used compressor. Someone else laid claims to it and the entire motor already. I need to source the mounting bracket first then i'm going to try and see what I can figure out for an A/c Compressor. That mounting bracket might be the most annoying thing to get ahold of.
 
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Looks like the 2.3L uses the same 6P148A compressor as the v8. (possibly with different mounting orientation)

Post 172 has latest parts i used for the last rebuild I did

San Tech MT2140 is the rebuild kit. Got a kit off ebay.
GPD 1311262 is the shaft seal. I got this kit off rockauto.

Pulled the mustang outside today and was recording a video to post for everyone of it running and out of the garage. During the video it started to overheat. Cooling Fan working when given power from probe. It does not activate otherwise. I'm looking at the electrical diagram you've provided previously, Where would the cooling fan relay be?
 
Confirmed the Fan Controller to be bad. Ordering one in the next week or when I get caught up on bills.

Buuuuut I couldn't help myself... I got her into 2nd gear. Thanks for all your help. I passed a milestone today of getting to drive this vehicle, even for only a few minutes.
 
The connector itself looks great. Power was given from the connector and fan turns on. I'd assume that the relays are bad from not being used in 20 years. The electronics guy came out and verified everything for me while I finished putting the interior back together from getting the top on. He said the controller has to be bad since all the wiring from the plug tested correctly. I should have asked him his thoughts on using a Fused jumper wire from the Ignition switch directly to the fan power. My thought is that way the fan would always be on at all times when the car is running or on.

Soon as it stops raining, i'm going to go out and start swapping rims and tires out and see what kind of test drive I can do. i'm going to attempt to post a video again of it running after this comment.
 
She's never had a bath in the 15 years I've had her besides Rain water. The Driver's corner was and a sport on the bumper were where a tree "barely" fell on the car after painting. Brand new top, fuel system, brake system, and had 95% of the wiring verified. She'll be going in for a standard Ford Black (Ford UA1 I believe) in September once the shop owner gets the paint booth set up and functioning. I have included a before photo of the car as it sat after my 2nd move while working the the car. I somehow lost a license plate while working on it in the last year or so soon as I get the new plates, i'm going to be driving two and from the store in style. Video running in Reddit url below if it functioned correctly.
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View: https://www.reddit.com/r/Foxbody/comments/1cwlvhs/introducing_15_years_of_work_my_1987_ford_mustang/