1992 LX Build thread!
- Thread starter Bansheeman6100
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central Texas
EDIT: well, i ended up ordering everything below, i think its going to do it for suspension for now. the rear springs are sagging, and i think one is broken as its sitting 2" lower than the rest, so this needed to be done before i put more strain on it with a new motor.
FRPP "B" lowering springs
outer tie-rods
ball joints
sway bar bushings
sway bar links
i have brand new KYB struts and shocks.
and i have gathered that i need to use the Mustang engine mounts, regardless of the engine i end up getting.
also just ordered that large NPR, tubing kit and Ranger v6 radiator for $320 shipped. heres the total parts list gathered so far:
LA3
Large VAM
88TC wiring harness
Large NPR
FMIC tubing kit
V6 Ranger radiator
Balljoints
Tie rod ends
Swaybar bushings
Link kit
Ford racing B springs
will be looking at one engine tomorrow that is complete, otherwise the guy i bought the transmission from last year who is an old-school SVO collector is piecing everything together. heres the planned list for the engine so far:
Boport complete top end kit (local shop quoted $300-400 for port/polish, machining and installation for new components)
re-ring kit
new bearings
new water pump
new oil pump and intermediate shaft
if i get a block that is not assembeled, i will get it honed for sure, but its it comes sealed and assembled and looks ok, i will probably skip it for now.
LA3
Large VAM
88TC wiring harness
Large NPR
FMIC tubing kit
V6 Ranger radiator
Balljoints
Tie rod ends
Swaybar bushings
Link kit
Ford racing B springs
will be looking at one engine tomorrow that is complete, otherwise the guy i bought the transmission from last year who is an old-school SVO collector is piecing everything together. heres the planned list for the engine so far:
Boport complete top end kit (local shop quoted $300-400 for port/polish, machining and installation for new components)
re-ring kit
new bearings
new water pump
new oil pump and intermediate shaft
if i get a block that is not assembeled, i will get it honed for sure, but its it comes sealed and assembled and looks ok, i will probably skip it for now.
Mr. Rustypwnz
Advanced Member
Sorry for the late reply, but how did you get a 94-95 5.0 ecu to work on a 2.3? If you dont mind answering.
now for the exhaust planning: i'll start off with an E6 and port it a bit myself, and then continue down with a purchased 3" downpipe. i will probably have the rest of the system built at a local shop, and purchasing the rest is a bit more pricey then i think a local shop will charge. and i may end up having to just tie it into my stock exhaust for now due to budget, then finish it a few months down the road. but should i go 3" the whole way? or taper it down to 2.5" at the muffler?
and i know i will need a boost gauge, any others?
and with the setup i have planned with the LArge VAM, FMIC, ported/polished head with Boport 1.5, MAYBE 1.9 cam, and a large exhaust, do you i will retain any kind of MPG?
and i know i will need a boost gauge, any others?
and with the setup i have planned with the LArge VAM, FMIC, ported/polished head with Boport 1.5, MAYBE 1.9 cam, and a large exhaust, do you i will retain any kind of MPG?
79'293stang
Active Member
You should still pull decent mpg's probably 25-27. Your setup should get you into the 13s pretty easily.
well thats good to hear on both counts. just need to piece the rest together, going to look at that motor at 4 today, HOPEFULLY this guy follows through. at the price with a new turbo and distributor, its my best bet by far. then i'll get the head kit ordered and tear down the bottom end and determine what needs to be done. i also need to find a tutorial on the intake porting. and are the intakes on the 84 motors ok, or should i source a newer style? i already know i need to source a E6
ALSO: im now considering not doing the big valves, and sticking with stock size to save on part and labor cost. plus im a little worried about losing all of my bottom-end power. what do yall think?
finally went and bought that engine! got everytihng for $550, i usually dont like to give my money to people that are flakes, but i think it was well worth the wait. heres what i got. he claimed 66K miles on the motor, and i really wouldnt doubt him. the cylinder walls look damn near new, but im going to get a meter on them to make sure. but i think im going to replace the bearings, rings, water and oil pump, and maybe the screen and call the bottom end done. the top end will get the Boport kit, and after speaking with Bo i will probably use a 2.1 cam. still deciding if i should do the big valves or not. as for exhaust, i may have to tie this exhaust in to the stock just for a fee months. this turbo looks beautiful, and i think i scored bigtime, but yall will have to tell me. also, what is the other pump looking object on the side of the block? and i think im going to have to run these older style intake manifolds for now, are they OK? and im pretty sure i didnt get any of the accessory brackets, and the accessories included are super old, will the brackets and accesories off the NA motor work? PLEASE tell me they will. im pretty sure the N/A fuel rail won't work, so im picking up a TC rail with a Kirban regulator for $70, injectors for $60 and an E6 for $50, unless anyone here has them cheaper. next thing i need to get is some sort of boost controller or BOV, i dont know much in this area
Mr. Rustypwnz
Advanced Member
I havent seen very many on-center t3 turbo's. looks like a garrett hotside. do you know the specs on it?
I know nothing, I'm Trying to get it identified now by a friend of mine.
ETA: the intake wheel measured at 57mm, and exhaust was 70mm if that at all helps. and if it doesnt, what is that compared to other 2.3T turbos? a bit big?
79'293stang
Active Member
The TC rail will not work on an inline intake, so you will either have to upgrade to the box style intake or run the inline fuel rail. You will need to drill and tap the extra hole in the head for the box style intake as well. It looks like that turbo has no internal gate, so that means an E6 is out, you either need to source another turbo to use the E6 or source a different manifold with an external gate provision to use that turbo. As for the stuff on the side of the block, one is the oil cooler, the filter screws onto it. The other is the PCV breather, a vacuum line runs up from that to the pcv valve looks like it is missing though. As for accessories I am unsure, you can try and bolt them up and see what happens.
Its to bad it came all disassembled, your going to have a major headache finding the small pieces. When I get my car out of storage I will take a bunch of pictures of possible trouble areas and how everything is put together to help you out.
Its to bad it came all disassembled, your going to have a major headache finding the small pieces. When I get my car out of storage I will take a bunch of pictures of possible trouble areas and how everything is put together to help you out.
thanks, i appreciate it. and damn, that sucks that the E6 will not work, that means im going to have to use an aftermarket header, which i was trying to avoid for now due to cost. but oh well, this seems like a very soild turbo and i would like to use it. i just emailed Stinger to get his advice on it, hopefully that one will work. then i need to find a BOV, the ones they sell are a bit pricey. and im going to start the bottom end tear-down, and trying to order all the parts like rings, oil pump, water pump, probably that PCV breather unless i should skip it. and i think thats gonna do it for the bottom end. and since the NA motor is going to be in and running until the swap, its gonna be hard to see if the brackets will swap over
also really sucks that the fuel rail will not work, and its probably going to be a bitch finding the one i need, as i definitely cant spend the money on the new intake as well since im gonna have to buy a header
79'293stang
Active Member
A stinger style header should work just fine. You will have to weld up a custom flange anyway for your downpipe so it makes no difference either way, it looks like you have an aftermarket drain back hose, is there a oil feed line for the turbo at all? If not you need one, so at least the stock stuff is not interfering with which ever way you go. Also I find some pretty great deals on ebay from time to time so keep an eye out. The box style intakes can be had fairly cheap. I am sure quite a few small parts can be salvaged off of your NA engine, such as the pcv stuff, etc.
see, thats what im trying to decide now, if i want to make the investment in this turbo. we're talking about a header, external wastegate, custom downpipe, and im not even sure if this thing is too big for my application. and it does have a return line, i do need a feed line. but im pretty sure the return line had the wrong fitting on the end, its female
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Manif...es&hash=item3a6b2e97cb&vxp=mtr#ht_3426wt_1110
this looks interesting, wonder what the quality is like
79'293stang
Active Member
Turboford has a pretty big thread about the ebay headers. Apparently they crack like its their job. To thin of material. But some guys have had success with them, going into it knowing they wont last forever.
thats why i had been hesitant, you get what you pay for. but i decided i need to get this project rolling a bit faster, so i will be grabbing the stock T3 and IHI this guy had, and he's going to throw some cash back my way as well. and he has a fuel rail as well. also bidding on a set of newer style intake manifolds on ebay, if i get them i will need to drill and tap that hole, but i believe it will be better in the longrun. i will also be porting the manifolds
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