2000 Mustang GT Mach 460 TUTORIAL! HELP!

That's not good. Unfortunately there are a few idiots on this website that like to post incorrect or inaccurate information without doing any research. I literally looked and emailed people for a month until I had enough information to make an educated venture into replacing my stereo. I made this thread(and gave props to the guys that helped me with info) right after because I figured there were thousands of other people out there like me who needed help. I actually got really pissed at a couple of guys for posting conflicting information in my thread because that kind of stuff just confuses people looking for answers.

I would use the part number I have listed because I have a 2000 GT with a perfectly working radio with no issues. I have no doubt that there are a couple other harnesses out there that work but personally I stick to things that I know for a fact work especially when it has to do with electronics.

Good luck and post if you have any problems.
 
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That's not good. Unfortunately there are a few idiots on this website that like to post incorrect or inaccurate information without doing any research. I literally looked and emailed people for a month until I had enough information to make an educated venture into replacing my stereo. I made this thread(and gave props to the guys that helped me with info) right after because I figured there were thousands of other people out there like me who needed help. I actually got really pissed at a couple of guys for posting conflicting information in my thread because that kind of stuff just confuses people looking for answers.

I would use the part number I have listed because I have a 2000 GT with a perfectly working radio with no issues. I have no doubt that there are a couple other harnesses out there that work but personally I stick to things that I know for a fact work especially when it has to do with electronics.

Good luck and post if you have any problems.


Yea im sure yours works and im glad I found this thread, It just seems to (in my case at least) make more sense to use the 5510 being it has the 2 sets of RCA's (Front & Rear for the factory amps) which would work out just right with my Pioneer's Front & Rear rca outputs.

70-5510.jpg
 
The Metra 70-5510 kit finally arrived and it installed without any problems (2000 GT) however ill have to get a regulator as described in the tutorial because I get a bit of amplifier pop on power up.

The stock deck was easy to remove with the ford removal tool but the cd deck is proving to be a real pain, we couldnt get it out after repeated attempts but for now ill leave it until I get a cubby.

The Pioneer (model info) offers a lot more control over the sound vs. stock deck and it'l be even better once I get my JL subwoofer + amp installed.

So basically the 70-5510 works fine with a 2000 GT + Mach 460 audio, just be sure to get a regulator to prevent amplifier pop.

metra_harness.jpg


(RCAs, part of the 70-5510 kit): I just plugged these into the Front & Rear RCA outputs on the Pioneer, so I didnt have to wire in the actual speaker wires located on the kit:
rear_front_rca_outputs.jpg


pioneer_install.jpg
 
Radio disappointment

I just biught a used radio/cassette player and slave cd player for my 94 cobra. It came out of a 2000 cobra. I thought they were original and plugged everything in. Turns out the radio I purchased was the same Ford model number except the last two letters. The original is BB, the replacement is CA. I plugged everything in thinking I was all set only to have no power. A clock comes on the radio (which I didn't have in the old one) so I know the unit is getting power, but won't switch on. Am I screwed or is ther some kind of code I can set on the unit. I don't want to search for another one again. Original Mach 460's seem ot be hard to find in good condition. ANy suggestions??
 
I just biught a used radio/cassette player and slave cd player for my 94 cobra. It came out of a 2000 cobra. I thought they were original and plugged everything in. Turns out the radio I purchased was the same Ford model number except the last two letters. The original is BB, the replacement is CA. I plugged everything in thinking I was all set only to have no power. A clock comes on the radio (which I didn't have in the old one) so I know the unit is getting power, but won't switch on. Am I screwed or is ther some kind of code I can set on the unit. I don't want to search for another one again. Original Mach 460's seem ot be hard to find in good condition. ANy suggestions??
Test all of your power leads and verify that they are operating as they should.
 
Well that sucks.. I just received the 70-5519 harness in the mail for my 2000 GT because everyone told me it would work.. Now im reading here that it wont work, It looks like I can choose from the 5510, 5511 or 5512 harness but not sure which one to get?

EDIT: I contacted Metra and they recommended I use the 70-5510 due to the fact it has low level inputs for the factory amps and Im going to be adding a subwoofer and another amp to drive it. luckily my Pioneer headunit has 3 RCA outputs (Front / Rear / Sub).



Hello I am really appreciative of this thread I have a 2000 mustang convertible with the Mach 460 which I love very much! Although listening to the music I like in it improves the driving experience. So like all of you I have always wanted to use my mp3 player in it but have been at a loss to figure out how. Finally I have decided to put in a new head unit with an 3.5 mm headphone jack. I also have heard of having a USB port to the head unit, and straight RCA inputs from the back which I don't even know what that means... but I would like to go in the way of the best sound quality Does anyone know the best way? I can't wait. Also I wouldn't have the need for the CD player anymore if I had the use of my mp3 player so is there a way I can just get a RCA to headphone or usb jack plug that would take the use of the cd player's rca jacks or something like that without replacing the head unit? I need to to what ever has the easiest installation without sacrificing any sound quality.


My second question is if someone would kindly clarify the main differences between the two harness choices of 70-5510 and the 5511. As far as I can tell at least if has to do with rca adapters... does it mean with the 5510 there is less soldering? and that it is easier to install? more compatible?


Third if I decide to replace the head unit and then if I want to later decide to replace the stock 460 speakers that are 9 years old. By replacing the head unit now does that affect the future install of new speakers. Is replacing the speakers and more something that should all be done at one time to ensure compatibility or can I just add speakers later?


I have read this thread many times I am a find the answer yourself person but this would really help me out thank you :nice:
 
I replaced my head unit with the 705510 and two people from metra told me that is the preferred way. But I can't get the system to sound right. I think it has to do with my head unit configuration but I keep trying to make the sound nice and I can't. i wish I had some serious help.
 
yvesbrault,

Just decided to check this posting and saw your question, yes I can change everything just like normal with my headunit and my harness selection. All fuctions work as they should. I am glad to see this tutorial has helped so many people!

Brad
 
In the description of the 70-5511, I saw this:

•A 1.5K Ohm resistor can be used on the amp-remote wire to eliminate turn-on pop

Has anyone tried this instead of the regulator?

I will most likely go with the 70-5510 though since the replacement stereo has RCA jacks and it sounds like that's the easier way to go.
 
bumping this up...i put in an alpine 9886 with the wiring harness from metra without the RCA's. i have no bass whatsoever. what did i do wrong lol. i matched all the colors up and all that it's just not working. the highs sound amazing, but i gots no bass lol.
 
In the description of the 70-5511, I saw this:

•A 1.5K Ohm resistor can be used on the amp-remote wire to eliminate turn-on pop

Has anyone tried this instead of the regulator?

I will most likely go with the 70-5510 though since the replacement stereo has RCA jacks and it sounds like that's the easier way to go.

Okay, something is not quite right here. First, I have two small black connectors coming from the car, not one. One has 6 pins and the other has 8 pins. It appears as though both the 70-5510 and 70-5511 only have a connector for the 8 pin connector. What am I to do with that other connector, if anything?

I have a 2000 GT with the Mach 460 setup.

Second, now I think the 70-5510 is NOT the right harness. The pins don't line up correctly in the 8 pin connector; they are perpendicular to each other, assuming I try to use the fastener. I tried turning it, but they are off by just a little and forcing it in caused a couple of the pins to get pushed out. I'm likely going to break apart the harness so I can connect it and then tape it together so it says put before ordering something else. I'd still like to know how to connect that other connector.

I'm using the resistor rather than the regulator. Once I get it working, I'll post how that performs. It is certainly easier to setup than the regulator... don't need to worry about ground.
 
Okay, something is not quite right here. First, I have two small black connectors coming from the car, not one. One has 6 pins and the other has 8 pins. It appears as though both the 70-5510 and 70-5511 only have a connector for the 8 pin connector. What am I to do with that other connector, if anything?

I have a 2000 GT with the Mach 460 setup.

Second, now I think the 70-5510 is NOT the right harness. The pins don't line up correctly in the 8 pin connector; they are perpendicular to each other, assuming I try to use the fastener. I tried turning it, but they are off by just a little and forcing it in caused a couple of the pins to get pushed out. I'm likely going to break apart the harness so I can connect it and then tape it together so it says put before ordering something else. I'd still like to know how to connect that other connector.

I'm using the resistor rather than the regulator. Once I get it working, I'll post how that performs. It is certainly easier to setup than the regulator... don't need to worry about ground.

Alright, I figured it out. I cut the jacket around the pins off of the 8 pin connector on the harness so I could make the connection. Now it works fine.

As far as the other 6 pin plug, I realized a little while after I posted the last message that the other plug is to connect the slave CD unit.

The resistor works fine. I do hear a subtle pop when the unit powers on, but this is no different (from what I recall) than the noise I heard turning on the factory unit. Does the regulator eliminate the noise altogether? The resistor very simple to install.

Instead of soldering, I also made all of my connections using Ideal Wire-Nut wire connectors. I picked up a pack at Home Depot. I'm using the 71B Gray ones and they hold all of the connections securely. I proficient with a soldering iron... I just prefer these.
 
Just a thought. I have an 03 gt with the mach 460. 4 years ago I had a professional stereo shop install a pioneer premier and a 10" atomic sub with a precision power 300X2 power amp.
The only way the shop could install the above equip and make everything sound good was to go off of the rear outputs for the 10" sub instead of the sub pre-outs on the new deck. Due to the crossover of the factory amps, the shop used the sub pre-outs to power the factory subs in the doors and rear deck. The small factory speaker next to the mirrors and in the rear continued to be factory amped with full range from the aftermarket pioneer deck. This sounded great with lots of base. Fast forward to last week, I went and had a kenwood kdc-993 installed in place of the pioneer in order to run my new ipod from the deck. I went ahead and ponied up the money this time to have the whole car rewired to get rid of the factory amps and wiring. I replaced the door and rear subs with 6X8 two way rockford fosgate speakers, and I had fosgate T1 tweeters installed in the mirror position up front. All fosgates are running off of a 4 channel total mobile audio 320 watt amp. With this install in including the new kenwood headunit and the 10" atomic and precision power amp from 4 years ago, I have about $2,100.00 in the entire system with approximately 900 watts powering the entire set-up. I know it is a lot of money, but the sound is EXCELLENT!! It completely blows the original stock 460 sytem away. If you have the money, I suggest rewiring the entire car, replace all factory speakers, add an aftermarket deck of your liking, and put a sub in the trunk for base. The system will rock.
 
Hey all sorry I don't check in much since making this thread. I hope everyone has had luck getting their radios working. I will check in periodically to see if there are any questions.
 
Hello folks. I'm having a problem with my 2000 Mustang installing the harnesses. I used the 70-5511 set and thought I had everything set up right. However, now the radio seems to be working correctly, but I am getting no sound from any speakers. I have checked all the connections and everything seems fine. I have not hooked up the resistor yet, but that shouldn't be causing the speakers to not work would it?

Does anyone have any ideas why the speakers wouldn't be working? I originally had the stereo on top and a CD player below. I pulled both out and replaced with a newer integrated unit.

Thanks for your help--this is driving me CRAZY!!!
 
Hello folks. I'm having a problem with my 2000 Mustang installing the harnesses. I used the 70-5511 set and thought I had everything set up right. However, now the radio seems to be working correctly, but I am getting no sound from any speakers. I have checked all the connections and everything seems fine. I have not hooked up the resistor yet, but that shouldn't be causing the speakers to not work would it?

Does anyone have any ideas why the speakers wouldn't be working? I originally had the stereo on top and a CD player below. I pulled both out and replaced with a newer integrated unit.

Thanks for your help--this is driving me CRAZY!!!
Ideas as to why the speakers would not be working....

Assuming that you are using the factory amps. Blown fuse. The amps uses different fuses from the radio.

How did you wire the remote turn on feature? Does your head unit provide the +12 volts for the remote power up feature? Have you confirmed that the head unit is actually supplying the +12 volts?

How did you build and wire the harness adapter?