30 lb injectors

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by airbag, Jun 16, 2006.

  1. I think 30's are too big. Id go 24's. 19 lb injectors would feed your hp levels so something is wrong. Id swap out for 24's
     
  2. Id keep 30's with your combo.
     
  3. I had 30's on my car for about a week. Thought they were flooding cuz it would stutter . Found out my wiring harness was bad and flooding my number 7 cyl and i was running the wrong plugs. Sorry that was off topic but I wanted to say that becuase now i have 24's on with around the same setup but I am about to upgrade to a bigger intake over my Street Heat version and put 75MM TB and put 30s back in. But with my current setup I ran 13.2 on Street tires @ 107 MPH ... But where im trying to go with this is While my car was on 7 cyl I ran it at the track and ran a 13.9 i belive at 100 mph .... So check your plugs and see if they are all firing. That maybe your problem. I also am running 18deg timing . It was a noticable diffrence over 16 ... which is what i was running. Jus play around with your current setup and fix it before you go adding more.
     
  4. your problems are not the injectors your problem is mismatch cam and valvetrain problems i hate ford cams and need a good tuning
     
  5. craigwhite - Your engine can't use the air the 75mm TB can flow. YOur engine flows about 2 times less than what that TB can flow, why do you need it? I would keep the 24's by the way...
     
  6. shoving around 13 psi into the motor will be why i will be putting the 75mm on
     
  7. Works for me...
     
  8. Have the codes been pulled?


    jason
     
  9. i have 30's on mine a lil tune the thing ran great, dont know the bottom end i'd guess stock 302 but windsor heads, "big" cam, cobra intake, 70mm throttle body, bbk cai, just got good timing and afpr, only ran [email protected] with an aod, everybody blames the big cam for the slow et. i agree but it did sound awesome.
     
  10. I had a 93 lx with Twisted Wedge heads, Stage 1 cam, TFS street intake, 30lb injectors and 5psi of boost on a stock bottom end and made 392rwhp and 380+tq. on a Dynojet. I would say something is wrong. I also had a 75mm tb and worked fine. I would not think that would cost hp anyway. I would think you would be over 400. what is the condition of the SC.
     

  11. The alphabet cams aren't that bad...88lxvert is running the Z cam (only 2* more total, 2* more @ 0.050 and + 0.010" lift than an X cam) with a DSS 306, unported Eddy RPM heads, homeported Cobra lower, 70mm TB, 73mm MAF, and long tubes...he put down 319rwhp and 346rwtq on a Mustang Dyno @ Murillos in the Texas heat...FRPP uses it in a few of their engines too with pretty good numbers.

    Obviously there's more to be had there. I'm inclined to agree with you though about mechanical problems...:shrug:
     
  12. There isn't anything wrong with the alphabet cams. They can make good power.

    Some look at an alphabet cam and say..."your car is crap"...just because of it. Nope, they are just bias.
     
  13. Subscribing, find anything out yet? On my setup I have a DSS 306, TW Heads, RPM intake, and an X303 cam. The car has gone 12.30s on motor and 11.40s on nitrous w/ crappy 60ft's. I'd say that it sounds like somewhat of a mechanical problem, with your #'s. First, find out what your valve springs are rated at(lift @.050) on your heads. I had to upgrade my TW springs to a Track Heat spring(x-cam had them maxed out, causing one to fail). I would also check to make sure your valve train is adjusted properly. Also, did you degree the cam any when you installed it? How is the car running now a few months later?
     
  14. static stang - What is your compression? what do you trap? Do you have a/c and powersteering still?
     
  15. 5spd GT - compression 9.7:1, N/A trap speed 109.84mph and N20 trap speed 121.34mph, and yes i have AC and no i've deleted the P/S.
     
  16. 30's are fine.look at my sig.i have no problems even with the turbo.take a look at your plugs.one of the easiest way to tune a car.your burn line should be almost to the arch of the little arm that goes over the electroid(cant think of the name of it right now)if its to low add more fuel,if it goes over that arch pull some fuel out but set your base timing first.shouldve said that earlier.set your fuel pressure about 45.this is how ive tuned my car right now and runs f'n awsome.just looking at little things like that will make a huge difference.all the other info that was posted about valve geometry and stuff is very important to.hopefully this will help you.goodluck